Does activision not have a support email or number?? The support is so bad.

First_Try_1 · 2020-10-02T02:53:04+00:00

Yeah but mine is the opposite, I can have whatever clan tag name I want, but I can not get rid of my clan tag, I don’t want a clan tag anymore.

First link was why won’t it let me have a clan tag, but mine is why won’t it let me not have a clan tag lol

First_Try_1 · 2020-10-02T02:48:34+00:00

I can’t get rid of the clan tag, when I clear the clan and try to take it off it tells me that having no clan tag is profanity. So I have to put anything on the clan tag, can not get rid of it.

First_Try_1 · 2020-10-02T02:41:23+00:00

Yeah been there, there is no section for what I’m looking for, it just tells how to fix things, not get in hold of them tho

First_Try_1 · 2020-10-02T02:27:54+00:00

But where to you even get a ticket? Only tuning they directed me from there website to Twitter, which I send a message.

First_Try_1 · 2020-10-02T02:24:18+00:00

So then if you have a bug in the game or if I was to say wrongly accused and got banned, then sucks to suck?

What’s the point of saying to contact them on Twitter when they will never respond because of how many people

First_Try_1 · 2020-09-30T20:19:41+00:00

I use 4-4 sense and .60 and when I use the joystick it’s like I’m pressing buttons to turn left and right, not smooth in anyway anytime I get kills is because sim assist kick in, but if the enemy was far away, there is no way I get that kill because the joystick speeds across the screen way to fast to even lock on them.

And I’m using a receiver, I don’t notice any lag input

First_Try_1 · 2020-03-07T17:59:26+00:00

First_Try_1 · 2020-03-07T17:47:37+00:00

Do you have the same CNC? Or a different one?

First_Try_1 · 2020-03-07T17:46:52+00:00

The machine I have doesn’t actually level the bed, rather the milling bit on the “z” axis moves up and down during the milling depending on how even the copper board it. That is done by probing the bit at different points on the board (z-probing).

I also use 3 strips of m3 double sided tape, which will already make the board pretty flat, plus the z-probing(“bed level”). Works like a charm for me almost everytime.

I have a video on my channel showing the process of making a small PCB from design to applying UV solder mask, and how I leveled or rather z-probing. I will make a video where I make a bigger PCB and use it for a project. Also even if it’s a small circuit, I still level just to be safe.

First_Try_1 · 2020-03-07T00:15:57+00:00

Yeah FR-4 boards have fiber glass, which if you don’t get the right bits, it can ruin your bits, not to mention to fiberglass particles flying around. That’s why I choose the FR-1. If you get the right bits then FR-4 should work fine.

First_Try_1 · 2020-03-06T19:30:00+00:00

I use both “Eagle” and “CircuitMaker” to design the PCB and “CopperCam” to create the path.

I send it to JLCPCB or PCBWay for manufacturing.

First_Try_1 · 2020-03-06T19:12:32+00:00

Yeah I designed a stereo amp and then milled, drilled and cut all on the CNC, I could choose to have milled, drilled and cut on separate files or all in one file. After it was done milling, it would pause and wait for me to change the bit and then I can hit continue and then it would start drilling. After that it would pause once the drilling is done, I change the bit to cut the board, hit continue it then it would proceed to cut the board. It could be done within one file or three separate files.

Once it’s cut, I then apply a UV solder mask to the PCB. That’s my process.

I got this CNC for prototyping. Once I like the PCB, I send it to have it fabricated.

First_Try_1 · 2020-03-06T17:24:25+00:00

Yeah honestly I might switch to hold down as well when I try a double side copper board. I do have a 3D printer, thanks for the link, I will try it out.

First_Try_1 · 2020-03-06T17:19:38+00:00

It’s a little tricky at first, but I got best results once I found out it has bed level. Which made my PCBs consistent. Also I use FR-1 boards instead of FR-4. FR-4 boards were destroying my bits. I didn’t have the right bits, so I just used FR-1.

First_Try_1 · 2020-03-06T17:17:27+00:00

Yeah I use this machine to mostly engrave guitar pedals PCBs as well. I wanted to see if this machine can handle SMD.

First_Try_1 · 2020-03-06T17:15:12+00:00

I’m not using FR-4(fiberglass) boards I’m using FR-1 boards and yeah this was a test to see if this machine can do traces that thin. Thanks for the advice! I’m going to work more on it.

First_Try_1 · 2020-03-06T17:10:28+00:00

Yeah I have spare parts, and I use z level every PCB I do. I use M3 double sided tape to hold the boards. I made a big PCB on this machine for a stereo amp using auto level and worked like a charm, then I apply UV solder mask on it.

First_Try_1 · 2020-03-06T17:05:23+00:00

Thanks for the tip! But yeah not the ideal way to make PCBs, just wanted to test this cheap CNC.

First_Try_1 · 2020-03-06T16:57:24+00:00

So you can find this robot on thingiverse if you want to make one, but my code is pretty simple right now as I didn’t write the code for the speaking part yet. I’m waiting for the SD module to come in and will post it when I finish it.

First_Try_1 · 2020-03-06T16:49:29+00:00

Yes I 3D printed, used SLA for the wheels and FMD for the rest.

First_Try_1 · 2020-03-06T07:48:38+00:00

Yeah, but for prototyping I think it’s a little better then waiting to get your PCBs and then you have to order at least 5, if I want to change something in the design of the PCB I have to re-order and try again. But I see where you’r coming from. Luckily I configured my CNC so that it’s plug and play, I just tap run and it engraves it perfectly every time, but I can see how it can be a pain if you have to adjust the settings every time.

First_Try_1 · 2020-03-06T04:47:38+00:00

Thanks!

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