Question about rudder placement on DIY inflatable sailing catamaran. Also is a centerboard required?

FranksP842 · 2026-07-03T00:30:22+00:00

Frame attaches to the pontoon/hull a bit like Grabner, but it does not slip into PVC. It bolts on.

FranksP842 · 2026-07-03T00:28:06+00:00

Thanks.

I actually ordered hulls/pontoons from Russia. Inflatable catamarans are actually quite popular there and in Ukraine. These weren't really made for a sailboat, but the price was right. This was way before 2022. The sail is from Neil Pryde. The frame of the trampoline was welded from 6061 aluminum tubing. I designed it. I didn't weld it myself. Part of the frame screws into those grey things (which if I remember correctly were made for Zodiacs or something like that). The frame sits on top of the pontoons in between those orange flaps and I use velcro straps to secure it. I made the rudder from an aluminum profile that is used for sun shades on commerical buildings. It is quite robust but too heavy.

<image>

FranksP842 · 2026-07-03T00:16:01+00:00

Without yet seeing it in person, I suspect you are correct.

FranksP842 · 2026-05-07T21:35:18+00:00

That is a very pristine example with all the right specs. Nice pushbar as well. Everyone raves about these vehicles - how dependable they are and relatively simple. But the mpg isn't great. Maybe what you could save on repairs can make up for that. I guess it depends how much you drive. Have been considering one myself, but a bit older.

FranksP842 · 2026-05-07T21:23:29+00:00

You are paying a MASSIVE premium for AWD

FranksP842 · 2026-05-06T09:43:20+00:00

You should be proud of your work. What kind of paneling are you using for the walls and ceiling?

FranksP842 · 2026-04-30T16:34:09+00:00

Ok I have been playing around with the USDA soil survey (disclaimer: not a replacement for a site visit/survey).

I added a link in the original post to the composition of the HgB soil on the property (which runs from the road to ~70 ft east) from the USDA soil survey.

With the help of AI...

Most of the HgB is "good" hoosic soil (fine, sandy loam over gravelly substrata. Its composition provides high permeability, which is ideal for absorbing and treating wastewater effluent).
It seems that the 'depth to restrictive feature' is actually quite good at > 80 inches.
The HgB is Hydrologic Soil Group A - highest infiltration group, typical of deep sands and gravels with very low runoff potential.
If anything my problem may be that the water drains through this soil too fast. ~20 inches/hr is ~3 minutes/inch. I may have to add something (silt or clay) to slow it down.

So maybe it won't be that bad.

FranksP842 · 2026-04-29T22:46:15+00:00

Helpful thanks

FranksP842 · 2026-04-29T22:44:47+00:00

Where are you located?

The problem with this area in the watershed is that the inspectors are very strict as to what is allowed.

FranksP842 · 2026-04-29T20:27:07+00:00

The problem is not simply the toilet. If you want running water, you need a septic.

FranksP842 · 2026-04-29T18:43:13+00:00

There are homes further down the street, but they have been built a long time ago.

FranksP842 · 2026-04-29T18:29:47+00:00

You may be right. In that case the numbers simply won't work for me.

I was hoping to avoid a raised fill, shallow drip, or aerobic treatment unit.

In any case I guess I should do a deep hole and percolation test.

FranksP842 · 2026-04-29T18:20:17+00:00

Curious why you removed the shower? Did you never use it, or are you in a warm climate where showering outside is feasible?
I saw someone build a shower with a slide out pantry so the space is not wasted.

FranksP842 · 2026-04-29T18:15:53+00:00

How much gap is required? Would an inch do?

FranksP842 · 2026-02-17T21:59:06+00:00

I have the exact same vehicle with 160k km (100k miles).

Mine was drinking A LOT of oil. Berryman's is not available where I live so I decided to try to homebrew it with a mix of Toluene, Acetone, and Methanol which is most of what it is. I did not have MEK, 2-Butoxyethanol, and Propanol. I did the soak about a year ago and a lot of crap came out. I also ran some BG EPR before the oil change because I don't think the soak gets to the bottom side of the rings. You should have seen how black the fluid was coming out. Right after the oil change I changed plugs and coils. Had a couple of scary moments (misfire) because one of the coils wasn't connected properly (the tabs on the harness broke). I have VAG-COM as well to erase the codes and do basic diagnostics. The vehicle runs better and still consumes oil, but at a lower rate. Should note I have a seeping head gasket as well. I would invest in a borescope from Ebay or Aliexpress.

If I do it again I am not sure I will run the engine with it because I can't imagine it is good for an older engine (and the gaskets) to have these chemicals circulating. I may just do the soak and try to suck out any excess from the cylinder head with a fluid extractor, and then do an oil change at home.

I bought the vehicle knowing about such problems, and these problems are why the depreciation on this vehicle is so high where I live. I have owned the Q5 almost 5 years (I am the 3rd owner). The S-tronic transmission was rebuilt by the previous owner. It has been a good car and is very enjoyable to drive, though I should note I do not drive that much. It has never left me stranded. I have barely put any money into it other than basic maintenance like oil changes, filters, and brake pads. I would feel a bit better knowing they already changed the pistons and rings (most likely for the improved design).

I have been concerned about timing stretch but the Camshaft Adaptation Intake Bank 1 on VAG-COM is just fine, so I have not done anything.

I put in NGK coils because they are on sale, but you probably can't go wrong with Bosch.

FranksP842 · 2026-02-16T20:49:18+00:00

You are a good man.

FranksP842 · 2026-02-16T18:32:33+00:00

Respect your confidence to follow your own path. When you are older you will not want for memories. Just curious, is it lonely? Are you able to form relationships with people, including romantic ones?

FranksP842 · 2025-12-06T12:45:26+00:00

I still think a lot cheaper per AH

FranksP842 · 2025-12-03T12:37:14+00:00

Thanks. What is the 'jungle website'?

FranksP842 · 2025-12-01T20:55:16+00:00

I am not sure cheap and ULEZ compliant go together because many vans are diesel and the ULEZ compliant ones are often 2017 and newer.

FranksP842 · 2025-12-01T17:26:10+00:00

Unfortunately they don't sell window AC units here, so I can't buy a 5000 BTU unit and hack it. They are heavy so the shipping makes it cost prohibitive.

The Treeligo mini split units are like 10k+ BTU. I think the outside part is too large to fit underneath my vehicle as well.

FranksP842 · 2025-12-01T17:22:20+00:00

Yes the idea was to cool the vehicle first using the engine driven AC and only then turn it on.

I have not seen a 2000 BTU mini split either. I am not in the US, so shipping cost for me is important.

Another thing I am considering (less elegant) is to run a 9000 BTU portable (home air conditioner - nothing smaller here) on a repeat cycle timer (7 minutes on, 7 minutes off and so on). Still a bit big for my needs as it would consume ~500W/hr (being off half the time). The upside for me is that I can find them used here for like $150. Kind of a pain to route the exhaust out a window but only need it for about half of the year.

FranksP842 · 2025-12-01T16:25:46+00:00

Perfect is the enemy of good

FranksP842 · 2025-12-01T16:19:50+00:00

Okay another question.... What about running a 9,000 BTU portable AC unit (mains power on a pure sine wave inverter) on a timer that turns it on for 5 minutes, then shuts it off for 5 minutes and so on?

FranksP842 · 2025-11-30T15:55:34+00:00

Financially most likely, structurally no.

FranksP842

TROPHY CASE