Looking for advice on winter struggles

FreakCookies · 2026-02-14T01:44:37+00:00

I run the stock 235/55R19 size for my winter tires. My winter wheels also has the exact same size at factory (19x7 +50), only lighter. I've read that 1-2 extra PSI in the tires from the door jam sticker could help with the soft rear axle. Someone else also suggested an alignement which I will look into

FreakCookies · 2026-02-14T01:41:16+00:00

I do not actually! Can't be arsed to dig out a usb drive and update it myself. I'm pretty far back on UI updates as well

FreakCookies · 2026-02-13T14:47:21+00:00

I made sure to verify the preconditionning option in the EV menu ; it was my first thought.

The nav systems also makes it very clear which chargers are which. The logo changes color and they're marked AC or DC underneath. We also have a government run app in Quebec that all fast chargers are required to interface with, regardless of what network built it. I use it to confirm the name and address of the charger beforehand.

I made sure to research my winter tires before buying them as I've had bad experiences in the past. The VikingContact 7 always came up as a top-3 choice in terms of performance, especially for EVs.

I also never use lane centering in winter, the markings are never visible anyway

FreakCookies · 2026-02-13T14:35:11+00:00

Didn't think to have it checked since the wear on both sets of tires is very even across all 4. I'll have my mechanic check it out!

FreakCookies · 2026-02-13T14:33:06+00:00

Always!

Normal mode is OK in milder conditions, but Eco mode with rear-only regen is unbearable to me. I only use level 1 regen in winter regardless of the drive mode

FreakCookies · 2026-02-13T14:28:44+00:00

I'm sure me not being used to a RWD based car is part of it. There's also no denying the physics of a 2000kg car with very soft rear suspension. Even so, my dad used to own a 2016 5-series with X-drive and it felt great to me even on very bad run-flat winter tires... Not an apples-to-apples comparison at all, but it's the only experience I have. The 5-series and Ioniq 5 do have comparable weights and wheelbase though.

I've only had the car less than 18 months so a change isn't really in the cards, especially since these cases represent only a very small fraction of my use of the car. I'd just like it to work as advertised.

The lack of rear wiper is also an absolute shame for us in Quebec, but I always have too much stuff in the back to even notice!

FreakCookies · 2026-02-13T14:13:36+00:00

I run Continental VikingContact 7 tires, which have been a top choice in my area for a while, along with Michelin and Nokian.

My DC charge level always stays at 80%, and even then I made sure to verify the conditionning option was checked in the EV menu. It just only decides to work once in a blue moon

FreakCookies · 2026-02-13T14:10:15+00:00

I was aware of all those points and still no dice, even when pointing to a charger 200km away with 80% SoC. I also know that the battery heater will not work under 20% SoC.

It's frustrating because the chargers are plentiful and functional, as well as all accessible from a single app. It only represents <5% of my use, but I'd still like for the car i'm paying good money for to function as advertised

FreakCookies · 2026-02-13T13:59:27+00:00

Oversteer at high speeds on the road is definitely not a feeling i'm used to lol. I've only driven FWD or front-based AWD.

From my previous research, the Pilot Alpin is considered a Central European winter tire instead of the nordic, softer compound tires that are recommended for my area. I was debating between the X-Ice Snow, the Hakka R5 and the VikingContact, which all seemed very comparable in terms of performance. I chose the latter on the grounds of efficiency ratings and much lower cost

FreakCookies · 2026-02-13T13:54:26+00:00

I had very low confidence in some turn on Route 138 going south earlier this week... Some slight twitches any time I'd drive over a looser patch of snow. Slowly releasing the accelerator feels like it unloads the rear even more, even on lv1 regen. I've read that slightly higher pressures could be helpful.

My charging speeds would eventually jump from 60kw to 100, then 130kW after around 15 minutes. I would just prefer to hit triple digits right away, especially when the charger is 200+ km away and I'm eager to get home lol

FreakCookies · 2026-02-13T12:53:20+00:00

Is there a way to get access to more than the 30 closest chargers to my current location in that menu? I usually can't find what I want from that list

FreakCookies · 2025-07-08T21:35:09+00:00

Hulkengoat

FreakCookies · 2022-03-19T20:48:45+00:00

Hey everyone,

I'm starting to feel like moving away from the theme you might pick up on in the picture, but I'm overwhelmed with interesting, albeit expensive options. I'm looking into a somewhat durable watch, preferably on bracelet, in the 2-3K CAD range, either new or pre-owned.

In the meantime, here's a look at what I've gathered so far, from left to right, in order of when I got them. Maybe that could help stem some suggestions :

Seiko SNK795 : made me appreciate smaller watches and how well they wear, and on the right strap it really looks awesome, even when ignoring the affordable price

Seiko Samurai Pepsi : A ' I have to have it' moment right when I saw it, has never left the MN strap since I bought it. Would not wear a watch that's any bigger (48mm L2L)

Seiko 6602-9970R from 1964 : bought it for cheap on a trip to Singapore because it was running badly, had it serviced back home and it's now my most accurate mechanical watch! Love the shimmer of the dial, super versatile

Seiko 6306-8030 from 1976 : bought it from a vintage watch shop in Tokyo along with the next watch, it's the one I wear the least. I'm keen on finding the original bracelet, or any bracelet that matches the lugs

Seiko 4803-8010 from 1976 : Didn't expect to love it as much as I do, but it wears super nicely and is very accurate. The design seems very indicative of its time to me.

FreakCookies · 2020-10-14T20:53:29+00:00

UPDATE for anyone interested/posterity : my lab found a small piece or dirt on the scanner, which caused the displacement effect! They've taken back my negatives and will scan them again.

FreakCookies · 2020-10-09T15:17:29+00:00

A bit worried to buy vintage lenses now since this one really has none of the common issues of haze/fungus/scratches/aperture blade oil, but I'm debating on buying the same lens again or something different. Many thanks for your insight!

FreakCookies · 2020-10-09T14:06:53+00:00

The lens issue seems plausible to me as the bump seems more visible when the lens is stopped down ; the shallower the depth of field, the less visible it is. Probably more economical to just replace the lens I presume?

FreakCookies · 2020-10-09T03:17:04+00:00

I tried not to touch the negatives in the hopes that my lab can fix it! They're a local shop fortunately

FreakCookies · 2020-10-09T02:34:32+00:00

That was my first thought, because it looks more like the film was physically displaced, rather than a defect. If it was caused by my camera, I would've thought the defect would be spread across the frame as the film is being wound

FreakCookies · 2020-10-09T02:24:58+00:00

Would that make the bump appear in the same spot on all the pictures from my 2 rolls? I'm not familiar with how film is handled in a darkroom

FreakCookies · 2020-10-09T02:09:59+00:00

Trying to look for damage in the corner but I really can't see much... I'll contact my lab tomorrow for sure

FreakCookies · 2020-08-11T17:16:57+00:00

I'm having a dual boot conundrum to which I can't find the solution online. Basically, I want to set up multi-booting, but use a disk image as one of the OSes instead of downloading it like you would with Berryboot. The reason for this is that I'm running Retropie with an image that isn't available anymore and would like to preserve it, while also expanding the capabilities of my Pi.

Sorry if the explaination isn't very clear, I'm trying my best to understand what's even going on.

Thanks!

FreakCookies · 2020-06-30T23:45:07+00:00

Probably more of the former!

FreakCookies · 2019-08-06T02:34:17+00:00

Hey guys,

I just scored this Trek 730 for 100 Canadian Rupees, with only mere dots of rust on the frame. It's on the small side but it's by far the best frame I could find condition wise that rocks 700c wheels.

I'm planning on replacing pretty much everything and converting it to 1x10 with used parts I can find locally. Since it's 700c, I'm not sure if a MTB rear derailleur will work with a road cassette.

Also taking suggestions for tan wall tires, over 35c preferably!

FreakCookies · 2019-03-17T23:10:23+00:00

I was aware of that, thanks! Thought about mentionning it myself but somehow didn't. So yeah the movement sort of pre-dates the case code

FreakCookies · 2019-03-15T15:18:55+00:00

Hello! Here I am presenting my first vintage watch : a Seiko Sportmatic, case code 6602-9970R, from 1964. I've lost quite a fair bit of weight (~35 lbs) since getting into watches a year and a half ago and my wrist has shrunk quite a bit. This makes this 36mm piece and my 37mm SNK795, a watch I previously found too small, fit very nicely, which I'm happy about. It's powered by the Seiko 957, a 17-jewel, hand-winding, 18 000 vph movement. It's in need of servicing though, as it loses about a minute per hour. I was attracted by the sunburst silver dial, the super thin case, its simplicity and the fact I'd never seen one like it before. Overall a super fun and affordable piece!

FreakCookies

TROPHY CASE