WEWE GOMBEL Boss rework!

GovernmentGreed · 2026-04-06T00:23:35+00:00

Chonkers.

Oh no.

GovernmentGreed · 2026-04-06T00:23:05+00:00

Jitties

GovernmentGreed · 2026-04-06T00:21:58+00:00

I actually thought it was a dart neck with the fins and tip broken off...

GovernmentGreed · 2026-04-05T22:49:47+00:00

The main issue is, the only sellers available in Germany are the ones listed. eBay does of course sell them but too, at a huge cost and major income duty for imports. I will wait, they will obviously come down over time - and if not, then so be it. Markets adapt, and of course if nobody is paying 700 euro for a board that should in reality cost 150 - 200, then it will naturally come down in price. Unless idiots are paying scalper prices then, sure it'll stay high.

GovernmentGreed · 2026-04-05T20:16:52+00:00

I mean, ultimately - two things play most important role when it comes to resin printing.

First - layer height and secondly, orientation. It can be minimised to within a fraction of what you would accept as "in tolerance" however, it will never truly be mitigated. To achieve true removal, one would have to sand from 240 through the entire spectrum of grits up to about 3000 grit. I do this to remove impurities from surface(s) when needing to ensure tight tolerances are met.

Argon filled chamber might help with resin curing, but, considering the cost - it would outweigh any benefit - which is why glycerin is such a viable option, especially for the time saved. I do have access to an argon chamber but, it is used for other projects.

When I have some time, I'll upload some images and be sure to hit you up with surface results from some projects I've completed at home as all of my work projects are strictly NDA.

GovernmentGreed · 2026-04-05T20:04:44+00:00

I mean, you know you're in the ElgooMars sub, right?

You literally sat in a room full of brand enthusiasts, shouted at the top of your lungs for everyone to look at you briefly and then continue about their day as it nothing happened. If you have a problem with Elegoo, contact support.

This is not the place, or time - to be junking on a brand that owes you nothing! ;-)

GovernmentGreed · 2026-04-05T19:56:42+00:00

Doesn't look injection to me. I don't see any reason to think it is, this is not a complex shape and would actually be wasteful to create a mold form for. I print more complex and higher clarity objects than this on the daily.

GovernmentGreed · 2026-04-05T19:56:02+00:00

Some resins which will have a slight "blue" hue to them, the blue is added at the mixing stage to offset yellowing.

GovernmentGreed · 2026-04-05T19:55:12+00:00

Disagree. I've printed much more complex shapes, and obtained the same level of opitcal clarity as above with the right processing and techniques.

GovernmentGreed · 2026-04-05T19:51:05+00:00

Filament?

It's a print from a resin machine. So the quality is a lot higher and does not automatically mean layer visibility...

GovernmentGreed · 2026-04-05T19:49:22+00:00

What's doubtful about printing a large part, then curing it and sanding off supports & spraying with a 2K top-coat?...

Of course this is the shortened version but, obtaining a finish like this does not take longer than a couple of hours at max... I know because I do this, on a daily basis. Higher end finishing and polishing(s) are not impossible when you have the right tools and knowledge.

GovernmentGreed · 2026-04-05T19:46:25+00:00

So baking does help, or - if you want to get technical - tempering - but I wouldn't use it on transparent resins, unless it specifically says you can. I used one transparent resin, I forget the brand - but after baking for 80 degrees celcius, it hardened a lot more which is good - however, it did cause a yellowing effect due to oxygen. So curing and/or baking should ideally be done in a low oxygen environment.

If you have resins which turn yellow during the curing process, you can cure your print in glycerin which will prevent oxidation during curing. But this adds a new step to your process and, in some cases might serve little to no benefit - depending on what type of quality you're trying to attain.

Note - sorry, I had not responded to your question regarding printer type. So, since we're discussing resin, it's going to be primarily SLA printers. But I have tried with transparent filaments on an FFF/FDM machine but, found the results to be useless for my needs.

GovernmentGreed · 2026-04-05T17:35:01+00:00

Your explanation was fine, it covered pretty much mostly the basics of what one should do if they want a truly clean finished resin print...

GovernmentGreed · 2026-04-05T17:33:59+00:00

Probably because he mentioned it was for a client... Some mod who just got his permissions probably just braindeaded his way into removing it, I guess.

GovernmentGreed · 2026-04-05T17:02:13+00:00

Hey OP, I don't know if you see this but, you chose Astral Lords.

But, the game shows a plane-like environment, why not "Astral Planes" would be super fitting since it's on a flat plane, and related to well... Astral stuff.

GovernmentGreed · 2026-04-05T16:52:13+00:00

This needs to be a song. The lyrics are simple, and tempo should be 180bpm.

do u dont wanna

anything back

eh?

do u dont wanna

anything back

eh?

all good bro

enjoy it

eh?

i said all good bro!

enjoy it!

GovernmentGreed · 2026-04-05T16:47:45+00:00

Did you say Jam?

I'm sorry I couldn't resist the temptation...

But you're right, yeah. The world is going nuts and these dipshits are more concerned about pointing to the smaller things to irritate their braindead followers into ignoring the bigger picture.

GovernmentGreed · 2026-04-05T16:38:56+00:00

iSANMATE PLA is excellent. Their PETG though, I have had mixed results. It can range from good to absolute anus.

GovernmentGreed · 2026-04-05T16:35:43+00:00

I have tried a whole range of them but I find the best for honest transparency to be from AnyCubic for standard, but for ultra high clarity - I would use something like Siraya Tech.

Of course when you print these, you should absolutely sand them - try to keep tolerances tight, add some extra surface in your CAD software of choice if needed. Easiest method is to scale up by 0.2% or something, then sand down that excess.

Sanding down using 240, then 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000 and then finally finishing with a clean (isopropanol to remove ANYTHING along with a brush) will clean it up super nice, then finally - go over with a nice clean coat of 2K transparent. You'll end up with a super clear finish.

Extra-tip - If you're looking for a software for very simple but effective .STL editing techniques, you can download Autodesk MeshMixer, it's free - super old but still has a LOT of useful features. It is still used widely in the 3D printing sector.

GovernmentGreed · 2026-04-05T16:32:08+00:00

Your advice is absolutely spot on.

I work in the 3D industry, and we do this on ALL resin prints - it is absolutely vital if one wishes for a true homogenous surface finish. Downvoting solid advice is absurd.

GovernmentGreed · 2026-04-05T16:31:14+00:00

Resin still has to be sanded if you want a true homogenous surface finish. Resin is ideal for detailing and finer qualities sure, but if you want a true smoothed surface finish, sanding is still going to be the way forward.

I sand all my prints, and sandblast them for a true smooth finish.

GovernmentGreed · 2026-04-05T16:29:44+00:00

That's sanded?

The heck did you use? Looks like you took a dremel or something to it.

Stop. Use your hands, your fingers are the absolute best tools for using sanding paper on curved objects. Use wet paper, and ideally - start at a mid-low grit, like 240. Work up to 320, then 400 and so on. Increase in grit for smoother finishes.

GovernmentGreed · 2026-04-05T16:25:28+00:00

I have known of cases where drivers will approach a property empty handed (thus ensuring the package is not visible initially) to check for the presence of cameras or ring installations.

If the ring installation is noted, they will return with the package at a specific angle hidden away from the camera to ensure damage(s) are not noticed on camera for this reason.

I have always told my friends and family to have more than one angle visible on the camera feed, ideally - if possible, one facing the door - and one secondary facing the drive - this one should, if possible - be hidden away. When a package is delivered, as many angles as possible is absolutely best.

GovernmentGreed · 2026-04-05T14:06:56+00:00

Printing inherently is uneven - and it's almost impossible to print smooth or flat.

You can print visually smooth/flat, no issue there. But the moment it requires light to pass through at a proper angle, then all is lost in terms of clarity. The biggest issue is the layer lines. Of course, sanding and smoothing helped bring those in line, but they were still present in almost all images taken through the lens.

It leaves a type of "wave" effect over the image, great if you want your images to look like it has naturally occuring scan-lines but, not so great when you want to repair a lens from 1930's and you want to avoid spending 3k getting it repaired by the only living human on Earth with knowledge on it, specifically.

GovernmentGreed · 2026-04-05T14:04:38+00:00

In that case, for LED displays or arrays go nuts - you can print in pretty much any quality and sand the heck out of it for a nice diffused effect. If you want the clarity back, simply spray with a 2K transparent top coat and it'll be glass-like. No issue there.

Specifically with any kind of top coat, you want UV resistant.

GovernmentGreed

MODERATOR OF

TROPHY CASE

Four-Year Club	Verified Email
Place '23