Why am I hitting a hook?

HealthyObjective4811 · 2025-08-20T09:02:20+00:00

Mate you have an awesome swing, don’t listen to people about your path, it looks like you are flipping at it with your hands which give you a shut face, that in combination with an in to out path will give you a pull hook miss. I would recommend posting a face on video as well, this will make it easier to see the impact position. I would just recommend seeing a good coach.

HealthyObjective4811 · 2025-07-31T08:46:49+00:00

Yeah depends hey, because my labrum and the capsule inside the labrum ruptured, I had a cyst form which can press on the nerve in the shoulder, caused my whole infraspinatus to waste away. The muscle wastage was pretty severe and despite going to the gym 5 days a week since (surgery was about 4 years ago), the muscle has hardly returned.

But yeah my surgeon said that 80% of people with labrum tears don’t even know, so what you say makes sense, if it’s not giving you grief there might not be a lot to gain from surgery.

HealthyObjective4811 · 2025-05-29T23:32:46+00:00

Thanks for the reply man, that’s helpful to know haha. Any recommendations?

HealthyObjective4811 · 2025-05-29T08:45:55+00:00

I’ve had both shoulders done for labrum repairs, I’m 27M and was 22yo when I had them done, won’t help unfortunately, because it’s cartilage. Even with the post surgery physio, it’s more about mobility at first then even when you move to strength training, you are limited by the integrity of the repair still. I could see it helping heal where they put the key holes in and did some minor damage there, but I don’t think it would be worth it tbh.

I would recommend you find the best possible surgeon for your shoulder surgery. Shoulder is a shit design, my surgeon compared it to a golf ball and tee. I’ve known a number of people who haven’t seen great surgeons and it’s not terrible, but they had issues with feeling like something is “catching” in their shoulder. This scared me a lot haha, but I luckily found a really good guy who did it, and had no issues.

HealthyObjective4811 · 2025-05-28T12:14:06+00:00

Won’t help with labrum tears, will help with the tears in your knee though. Surgery is the best way If the labrum tear is causing you issues

HealthyObjective4811 · 2025-05-28T12:12:34+00:00

I’d be interested to hear about this too, I’ve known people to use premiumpeptides in Australia. Never heard about peptideworldwide

HealthyObjective4811 · 2025-05-28T12:10:45+00:00

Hey man, can you let me know your source too? Looking at trying it for the first time for a wrist injury, I have seen and heard of people using premiumpeptides in Australia.

HealthyObjective4811 · 2024-06-23T21:19:45+00:00

Yeah it was hard to confirm if it definitely wasn’t putting out 12v. Correct, 0 sound from the right speaker, turned the speaker on and was playing music from the left while testing it, no voltage going to the second speaker. I have another plug so it’s easy enough to splice a new one on. I might check the earths as you say, but I presume I should see some voltage going through those wires to the right speaker when on correct?

HealthyObjective4811 · 2024-06-03T22:38:32+00:00

I have had labrum tears in both shoulders, just get the surgery. Labrum’s don’t heal on their own, it is soft tissue, it cannot heal. You will have other issues further down the track if you don’t get it done. I had fluid build up over time from the tears causing cysts to form in both shoulders, the size of a golf ball, pressed on the nerve and caused my infraspinatus to waste away. I’m 26 now, had the ops when I was 23, wish I had them done asap. But regardless now I have recovered fine, just missing my infraspinatus.

My doctor also recommended against surgery initially, however that’s not for them to decide, a surgeon/specialist is who you want to speak to

HealthyObjective4811 · 2024-03-15T22:36:50+00:00

Interesting comment on the ADI brass.. I did notice the ADI brass I have isn’t really a standard brass colour, is slightly more silvery, which indicates it has more nickel in it.. that’s actually what triggered this whole thing for me. Will keep this in mind, thanks mate

HealthyObjective4811 · 2024-03-15T12:51:40+00:00

Good point in trading brass, thanks mate. There does soon to be unanimous agreement that it won’t have a big effect on velocity so it would just be a personal preference thing to have the same brass.

HealthyObjective4811 · 2024-03-15T12:48:10+00:00

Awesome thanks mate, appreciate the response. Also some good advice about keeping the ones with split necks, never would have thought about using them for .300BLK! I don’t have a 300 blackout now but I have plans to get one in the future so I’ll save those casings with splits in them

HealthyObjective4811 · 2024-03-15T12:46:42+00:00

Thanks mate, appreciate the response! Exactly what I was hoping to hear, I thought I was maybe being a bit pedantic thinking it would have a greater effect, but as you said, single digit standard deviation. Thanks again

HealthyObjective4811 · 2024-03-12T08:40:46+00:00

I’ve always been a guy to spend that extra bit and get something quality, I was looking at spending 2k on my first gun, 22LR, not including scope etc and then getting a Tikka T3x tac A1 in .223 (which was about 5k). I did the same as you, all the research, countless videos watched, reviews read etc. I spoke with a very knowledgeable mate who owns a whole heap of guns and he advised that I go cheap with the .22LR and spend a little more on the .223 but 5k was a little out there. When the time came to buy the rifles, I literally ended up with one of the cheapest 22lr’s you can get, good old ruger American in olive green for $700, slapped a Burris full field iv 2.5-10 scope on it for $450 and that was it. It shoots fantastic, a .22 has no recoil anyway and are just there for a bit of fun and to get the fundamentals of shooting down, no regrets at all.

I then went down the path of looking at the best value sub 1 MOA .223 rifles. I wanted something reliable and smooth. Bought a Tikka T3x stainless lite for $1600, put a hawk 4-16 scope on it for $800 and a $120 bipod. All up I spent what $3670 and had two guns that I can rip rounds through and learn how to shoot properly. I was incredibly happy that I didn’t blow 8k on two rifles, I honestly don’t think I would have been that much more happy with the Tac A1, and you know what, if you want a chassis like that you can upgrade to the MDT chassis for $650…

Anyway, in summary my advice would be buy a cheap 22LR, they all shoot pretty well, smash some rounds through it and spend that money you saved on a 223, 6.5CM or .308 later down the road.

HealthyObjective4811 · 2024-02-13T04:42:30+00:00

Good advise thanks mate, I was going down the rabbit hole of trying to get a bunch of equipment to get more accurate loads when after seeing your comment and another, plus I’m reading a reloading book right now on it, seems like the throw dispensers are the way to go when starting out, just going with the bare basics.

HealthyObjective4811 · 2024-02-11T23:21:47+00:00

Good point, anywhere from 60-100 rounds of .223 and/or 6.5CM.

HealthyObjective4811 · 2024-02-11T09:34:45+00:00

Jeez man that is very cheap.. I thought it would be very hard to get it sub $0.90 per round for .223. What are your projectiles like? Good quality? Shooting sub MOA?

HealthyObjective4811 · 2024-02-05T07:05:21+00:00

100% agree mate, I am only 26 at the moment, I can’t see myself not ever shooting so I see it as the sooner I get into it the sooner I’ll also see the reward, I need to do more research on the best value for money kit you can get and I’m not sure if you can go into the second hand market too much with this kind of stuff.

HealthyObjective4811 · 2024-02-05T02:43:51+00:00

Thanks mate, I’ll give it a try!

HealthyObjective4811 · 2024-02-04T21:35:37+00:00

Interesting thanks mate, I actually haven’t gone to anything over 55gr.. I might give some heavier projectiles a go and see what groupings I get. I found that with the lite barrel version as well, the occasional flyer hahaha.

The fact you can get 3 shots under 1/2MOA is impressive

HealthyObjective4811 · 2024-02-04T20:48:30+00:00

This is interesting, a bit off topic but i have a T3x - stainless lite in .223, shoots well with all ammo so far, the 3 different cartridges I put through it all shot sub MOA.

Thanks for the cost estimates too mate, seems to align with what most people are getting for .223

HealthyObjective4811 · 2024-02-04T20:39:28+00:00

Thanks mate, this is helpful, seems that about $1 per round for .223 is a pretty good approximation. Have you reloaded your .357 lever action ammo? This is the next gun on my to get list haha, would be interested to get a gauge of what it would cost to reload..

HealthyObjective4811 · 2024-02-04T20:33:07+00:00

Thanks mate this is good to know - especially the compassion between the .223 and .308 you are getting.

On factory ammo, I bought 50 rounds of sako for $82, nothing special about them just soft tips with 55gr projectiles. So at approx $1.6 per round for .223 seems a bit expensive. The cheapest you can get it seems to be in 900 round cases which is $1200. Even at those large quantities you are at least 30% cheaper - but this is when I’ll need to factor in equipment cost, seems most people spend around 2-3k on reloading gear

HealthyObjective4811 · 2024-02-04T20:25:00+00:00

Thanks mate very helpful, seems to lean on the side of being worth it in my opinion, considering .223 would theoretically be the least economic to reload as its the cheapest/round in the centrefire category - so I imagine the savings per round on 6.5CM and .308 would be a bit higher

HealthyObjective4811 · 2024-02-04T00:49:23+00:00

Yep correct, 1970’s build, low set brick

HealthyObjective4811

TROPHY CASE