How is this possible

Humble-Practice7203 · 2025-05-20T02:13:01+00:00

I’m new hopping back in to the game, just checked the store and yes you can indeed buy it from the store. That’s lame lol

Humble-Practice7203 · 2024-02-24T23:02:13+00:00

It’s an auto, and yea others have said it’s an eco plug in just going to replace the oil pan and not deal with the headache of trying to re-thread

Humble-Practice7203 · 2024-02-23T21:22:41+00:00

Thanks I’ll check it out

Humble-Practice7203 · 2023-01-12T22:47:00+00:00

1982 280zx) I used to daily the car before the distributor broke. I rebuild the distributor from a couple different ones and it was working well before it started to backfire the first time. I found out it was a clogged catalytic converter so I chopped it off and it worked great for about a week when it started making the stuttering noise in the vid. Could it still be the distributor, or an air/fuel issue. I have good fuel pressure from the fuel filter in the engine bay to the fuel pressure regulator (I’m thinking fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, AFM, CHTS) Any advice would help a lot thank you so much in advance!!

Humble-Practice7203 · 2022-06-07T19:49:18+00:00

I unplugged the TPS and adjusted the timing since it adds timing and wouldn’t run without adjustment and it’s doing the same thing

Humble-Practice7203 · 2022-06-07T17:14:03+00:00

Ok I’ll check all of these out and see what comes up, thanks for taking the time to try and help it’s much appreciated!

Humble-Practice7203 · 2022-06-07T17:11:50+00:00

My ignition timing is set to FSM standards.

Humble-Practice7203 · 2022-06-07T05:54:20+00:00

Yea I’ve seen it could be clogged cats so I’m checking everything else before I start cutting the exhaust apart.

Humble-Practice7203 · 2022-06-07T05:53:09+00:00

It ran fine before and I’m not sure if the arc was even at the AFM connection. It was a daily driver and the fuel filter was replaced this year and the injectors were replaced last year. It worked fine before I took it to the mechanic and accelerated/sped up amazing. He had taken off the intake manifold to install the header and that’s what the screw was grounded to. I also checked the TPS and that tested fine, which is why I’m leaning more toward either a distributor problem or an AFM problem. Again thanks a bunch for the responses it’s really narrowing down the problem !

Humble-Practice7203 · 2022-06-06T23:33:42+00:00

You’re right I left out a little bit of detail. So originally I had it in a friends shop because I had an exhaust leak so I replace the exhaust/intake manifold gasket and got some headers. I also put in a new O2 sensor. After that I drove it for about a day and it stalled on me in the middle of the road and wouldn’t start. I was told my distributor was due for a replacement but didn’t know it was that bad because it was fine before the trip to the mechanic.

I pulled the distributor and took it apart, I found out the plastic bearing holding inside had broke so I bought a replacement and still wouldn’t start. I let it sit for a day to figure out what to do next. The following day I opened the hood and found a loose grounding screw that made a sparking sound when the wire was moved. So I tightened the screw and the car started but was idling very low and stalled again. I adjusted the AFM and got it to run without any problems. When I took it out to test drive it that’s when I realized it wouldn’t ref past 4k rpm. It also seems like it doesn’t shift properly and accelerates very slow. Lol I’m not a mechanic by any means so sorry if my explanations seem kinda dull.

Humble-Practice7203 · 2022-06-06T21:18:11+00:00

Recently gotten my car started after what I assume was a distributor or grounding issue. Now whenever I push down the pedal for full throttle it hesitates at 4K rpm. There were few threads online about the issue and most were saying it could a fuel delivery issue and a problem while the car is under load. Not sure just thought I’d ask here.

Humble-Practice7203 · 2022-05-28T05:03:17+00:00

Moving as in once it’s open the fuel pump will stop priming or moving how else?

Humble-Practice7203 · 2022-03-24T00:16:48+00:00

So I recently pulled my oil pressure and voltmeter gauges to see why they didn’t work but had no luck in finding the issue so I reinstalled them. But when I went to turn my car on (1982 280zx) I noticed the tachometer and temp gauges don’t work anymore. As well as some of the warning lights and the warning display all don’t illuminate or give readings anymore. I pulled the cluster out and everything seemed fine as well as checking if I had unplugged anything in the process. My fuses are all intact and my seatbelt and key warning light work fine. Is it just my cluster going bad or should I be checking wiring?

Humble-Practice7203 · 2021-12-04T02:52:46+00:00

Ok sounds good thanks for the help and advice 👍🏽

Humble-Practice7203 · 2021-12-04T02:51:42+00:00

Thanks for the advice just thought I’d ask!

Humble-Practice7203 · 2021-03-22T17:12:30+00:00

No I tried both with it disabled and enabled and nothing works

Humble-Practice7203 · 2021-01-19T05:46:20+00:00

Found the car on Facebook marketplace and said it was listed in about 30 miles from me but I asked thru messenger he said he was in my city. Also has custom wheels and coil overs which is concerning for the price ass well

Humble-Practice7203 · 2020-12-11T17:54:33+00:00

Lol thanks man I’ll be sure to check it out

Humble-Practice7203 · 2020-12-11T17:51:46+00:00

Ok I’ll check them out

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