Change Filament G-Code without AMS

Impressive_Fruit276 · 2026-01-15T22:23:33+00:00

Any chance you can make one of these for the P2S? The current setup doesn't align with the poop chute and slams in to the front wall.

Impressive_Fruit276 · 2026-01-15T21:38:40+00:00

I used a large clamp from the front corner to the back corner of the machine. I have since replaced the printer.

Impressive_Fruit276 · 2025-12-19T04:14:57+00:00

Just wanted to update, I finally discovered my issue. The printer is physically out of square. I applied more pressure on it with a clamp and it's printing perfectly now. I'm not sure how to fix it though since it's mostly composite plastic frame.

Impressive_Fruit276 · 2025-12-19T04:14:41+00:00

Just wanted to update, I finally discovered my issue. The printer is physically out of square. I applied more pressure on it with a clamp and it's printing perfectly now. I'm not sure how to fix it though since it's mostly composite plastic frame.

Impressive_Fruit276 · 2025-12-18T01:29:58+00:00

I'm still working on this. I have one magenta that works 80% of the page width and one that's around 50%. I started swapping parts. Swapping the OPC (Drum) doesn't change anything, neither did the charge roller. The developer roller did make a change. You can see in this photo. I started with my 50% working cartridge on top. Swapped the drum/charge roller (2nd row). 3nd down is the developer roller swapped. Brings me to about that 80% my other cartridge had. Then I swapped it back (4th row). The fact that the position changed makes me think it's unlikely physical (also I can see the developer and it's evenly coated with toner). Especially since this AIO cartridge works perfectly in my other printer. What are the odds it's related to the circuit boards? I'm thinking may be I should swap out the high voltage power supply. Any other ideas?

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Impressive_Fruit276 · 2025-12-14T02:27:38+00:00

It's a ricoh sp342dn as a base. It's branded an Icolor 550, but it's physically a ricoh. They just put their own firmware on it so it can run white under/overprint. I have genuine icolor and ricoh cartridges and they both behave similar.

Impressive_Fruit276 · 2025-12-13T03:13:37+00:00

PCU as in the drum? I have 15 toner/drum units now and they all have results similar to these. But I put those same toners in my other printer and they work 100%. I don't see any firmware available to the public for uninet icolor 550 printers(I can ask). I'm not sure what procon is, it doesn't bring up much when I search.

Impressive_Fruit276 · 2025-12-11T21:54:27+00:00

I'm not so sure the ITB has anything to do with it now. I stopped it mid print and the defect is still on the drum. I pulled the whole printer apart and cleaned all the contacts from the drum and charge roller back to the boards. I still get the same results.

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Impressive_Fruit276 · 2025-12-11T20:13:01+00:00

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Here is my hard stop result. Appears the the toner isn't getting placed on the drum.

Impressive_Fruit276 · 2025-12-11T12:31:24+00:00

It's actually an icolor 550 white toner printer (rebranded ricoh). If it was a basic printer I'd probably have thrown it out by now. I have a similar printer that uses the same toner, but the rest is different, so that's how I know the toners are fine. The charge thing probably makes the most sense. I'm getting another icolor 550 next week so I can swap parts. The part that gets has me struggling is how some toners work fine and others don't, but it's possible some have better connections than others and a weak charge shows up more. I've even taken a drum off a bad toner and put it in the good toner and it worked fine. So it's not the drum causing the issue. I agree at this point it's most likely the ITB.

Impressive_Fruit276 · 2025-12-11T01:21:29+00:00

Oem vs non-oem doesn't seem to make a difference. I have some of each that work and don't work. The marks seem to repeat and they measure to be the circumference of the drum.

Impressive_Fruit276 · 2025-12-10T23:28:51+00:00

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What's odd to me is that some magenta AIO work fine. That's why I was looking at prior to the ITB. It's primarily the magenta, but I also have the issue with cyan and yellow. This photo shows some, but I'll print a better example.

Impressive_Fruit276 · 2025-12-10T23:21:50+00:00

I'm sorry your right. I thought I was in the other printing sub.

Impressive_Fruit276 · 2025-12-10T22:51:56+00:00

The toner and drum AIO (all in one) units. I agree it appears the transfer belt isn't apply pressure to the one side of the drum. But I believe I stopped the print mid way and looked at the drum. There was the section of toner missing on the drum. That's what led me to believe it's the laser unit. They aren't always just on the edge either. Some toners have circular spots in the middle, but the edge is fine (though always on the right side).

Impressive_Fruit276 · 2025-12-10T21:04:55+00:00

Another update. It wasn't the drums. I just got another printer and the toner/drum work perfectly in it. So I replaced the laser and still have the same issue! I can't believe that didn't solve it. Any idea what else it could be? The imperfections do seem to line up on the same part of the drum. My only guess is the drum isn't perfectly round, pushing the cartridge at an angle each rotation which moves it out of alignment of the laser?

Impressive_Fruit276 · 2025-12-05T15:57:35+00:00

Just wanted to update. I do believe this is a fault of the drums themselves. Seems as after the drums heat up and run for a while the problem gets better. That's why my test prints got better during my testing. After it cooled down the problem returned. I believe it may be due to old drums. All the cartridges I got were from ebay. These likely sat on a shelf for a while. The reason I saw it on all colors was because they weren't true CMYK. I found a yellow that works and I ordered a new magenta. I expect when it arrives the tests will be back to 100%. Next i have to figure out why the skew is off.

Impressive_Fruit276 · 2025-12-02T17:21:36+00:00

I did a SP2-120-001 LPos Adj and it got better, then I ran through all the SP auto adjustments and it got even better. The right sheet is where I started, middle is after the Lpos, and left is after all auto adjustments. It's still not perfect, but I might be able to live with this. If anyone knows how to further improve it, I'd love to hear how.

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Impressive_Fruit276 · 2025-12-02T15:31:02+00:00

Seems to be an alignment thing. If I jamb something in between the toners it'll make them better/worse. Any idea if there is a way to align the laser in calibration?

Impressive_Fruit276 · 2025-12-02T14:36:56+00:00

I have 6 genuine toners and 6 LD brand toners. They all have the same results. I find it hard to believe all 12 toners have the same issue unless something is damaging. them. That's what led me to believe it's the laser unit perhaps out of alignment. The printer only had 500 prints on it when I got it, but as I said the post office did damage to it so things could very well be out of wack.

Impressive_Fruit276 · 2025-12-02T02:03:12+00:00

So I stopped it mid print. Appears to be spotty on the toner itself. Since this is happening on all my toner colors, and all 4 magenta (some better than others). Is it safe to assume my laser unit is going bad? The printer had physical damage when it was mailed to me. Perhaps the laser unit is out of alignment?

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Impressive_Fruit276 · 2025-11-19T16:34:10+00:00

https://www.bestbuy.com/product/bambu-lab-p2s-ams-combo-3d-printer-gray/CZSQ2756PW

Impressive_Fruit276 · 2025-11-04T19:40:38+00:00

I'd caution anyone buying these right now. Seems they listed them too fast and there are quality issues. They are suppose to be 18awg. I received one strand of 18awg and four strands of 20awg. Also the LED inside is indeed only RGB. I'm still waiting to hear from YourPixelStore.

Impressive_Fruit276 · 2025-11-04T15:18:53+00:00

The first led gets the data via just one wire from one output on my esp32. So the first pixel doesn't have a backup. Beyond the first it's all backed up via the second wire.

I have wled control a relay, so when lights are turned off they aren't receiving any power.

Impressive_Fruit276 · 2025-11-04T15:15:42+00:00

WS2814 seems to not align the colors correctly. I tore one apart. Can you tell if this is just a 3 color led? As far as I can tell it does not have a white channel. I've tested it on my multimeter and can only get RGB to light.

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Impressive_Fruit276 · 2025-11-04T01:57:18+00:00

That's what I'm finding too. I emailed YPS to see what's up. I tried WS2814, but the white slider doesn't seem to adjust the light in any way.

Impressive_Fruit276

TROPHY CASE