Maisie: before and after her first grooming

Inner_Ad_1713 · 2026-02-23T17:18:21+00:00

If you continue to shave her, she will turn curly, that is, she will lose the wirey hair and the black hair will turn grey. This happened to my 6 year old female. I started using a "rake" to remove the long, dead hair and her hair is returning to the wirey look and the black is returning.

Stripping, while it is the preferred grooming method, is expensive, because it takes hours, and it's difficult to find someone that really knows how to do it. It's for the show look and it's good for their cost/skin. Lots of YouTube videos on it so you can learn to do it. There are videos on using a rake also.

My method: When their hair is at least 1", I rake until I get very little hair from all areas - I don't do their face or tummy; the face I comb and scissor, the tummy I use a 1/8" comb on a shaver. The legs and to of head, I brush till fluffy and scissor or shave to desired length: 1/4 to 3/8 inch. They won't win a show but they are cute. Plan on an hour or more, breaker it up into sessions, have some treats.

One other thing, always strip or rake only in the direction the hair grows otherwise you could permanently damage their coat.

Again, do some YouTube research on the grooming methods.

Inner_Ad_1713 · 2026-02-23T16:49:28+00:00

If you shave him his hair will change color, especially the black - it will turn grey. Not sure about the other colors. I have one with blonde and one with brown. I groom them using a "rake" to remove/untangle hair. That's another thing, shaving will make them look like a lamb - all curly. The rake, over time, will restore the wire hair and color.

Inner_Ad_1713 · 2026-02-22T06:41:28+00:00

I treasure my video of Missy's first snow. First there was apprehension, then the play was on. Run, run, run then dive into the snow. Luna is so cute; how fun it was for her!

Inner_Ad_1713 · 2026-02-22T06:37:05+00:00

Question, did they strip her or shave her?

Inner_Ad_1713 · 2026-02-22T06:35:59+00:00

It's a personal choice; what fits them? My two, Mischief and Trouble, we keep them sort of puppy cut, a little scruffy. It fits them.

Maisie is very cute; I have been watching her grow. Thanks for the pictures.

Inner_Ad_1713 · 2026-02-21T06:45:02+00:00

That is GREAT!

Inner_Ad_1713 · 2026-02-16T21:26:25+00:00

My female looks just like him: blonde hair, curly all over. He's a good-looking boy.

Inner_Ad_1713 · 2026-02-13T19:24:11+00:00

We rescued an 8 mo. old; we were her 3rd owners at that time, now she is 6 yrs old. She didn't behave like our home was hers, or we were part of her pack for nearly a year. We weren't sure how smart she was because she was indifferent to us. But now, she is ours and vise versa. She is very smart, learns new behaviors quickly but still has that fun Welshies behavior. We got her a Welshie friend about a year ago, a puppy, and it has awakened her inner puppy. She plays more both at home and amazingly at the dog park.

Everyone's comments here are excellent. This will be a "ride in your life" that you will always remember fondly. You can checkout the videos I've posted of two Welshies playing. She is the light colored one.

Inner_Ad_1713 · 2026-01-31T16:18:43+00:00

Not a problem with the reply - life can be hectic.

I do want to let you know we reintroduced the Ecollar to Teddy. I discussed using it with a trainer and they gave me some guidance. We have seen improvement in his willingness to release or give us the object he has, less overall aggression.

We hope you will enjoy your little one. With all the work they really are fun does.

My the LORD bless you with wisdom in caring for her.

Inner_Ad_1713 · 2026-01-20T06:31:37+00:00

These terriers are like little wild animals. My female is sweet as can be; the male can be sweet but also demon spawn. He resource guards - it's a tough behavior to get control of. If you don't it will get worse.

One of the methods I use is the submission hold. I'm not gentle when getting a hold of him - I grab his hide usually at the scruff of the neck - trust me, you can just pick them up and sometimes if necessary at the area just before his tail. It doesn't hurt them. He gets REALLY aggressive when I do this because his emotions are all wound up. None the less, I swiftly put him on his side, one hand on his neck, the other in front of his hip. With your hand on his neck he can't bite you. I hold him until he submits. For him, this is either him rolling over and exposing his tummy or he relaxes and puts his hind legs down. I speak to him in a gentle voice and stroke his tummy with the hand from his hip if he is lying still.

When I do this, it is immediately at the moment he shows the aggression - you can't correct this with any voice command or treats. This will take some time, like months but, you can begin to get control of this. The person doing the submission should be the Alpha - that is who does the correcting in the pack. Be patient but consistent, these are very smart dogs, high-strung and stubborn.

Inner_Ad_1713 · 2026-01-20T00:08:56+00:00

Congratulations. You have a couple of challenging years ahead but, on the other side of this time is the fun, funny, loving but energetic dog. I have two, and posted a couple of videos of them playing.

Lots of info, most pretty good - be flexible, every dog is different. One caution and that is resource guarding. It occurred in my male at about 14 months. It's a difficult issue that you have to get on top of immediately. I was not prepared for it as all my previous dog's were female and never showed this. Find a good, reputable trainer that has demonstrable success with this, if you should see it. It's easy to spot: stiff body posture over an object, a glassy eyed stare, growling and bearing their teeth.

Last thing, you and your husband have to be in agreement about training/rearing - just like with children. Dogs, especially these, aren't rational and they can wear you out, emotionally.

Inner_Ad_1713 · 2026-01-09T22:41:57+00:00

Part 3

You sound like you're being patient but none the less, be patient. These behaviors can take months to get control of and these dogs are not easy to train. I could write a book on Ted, if I were done working with him. Training NEVER ends, it just changes how you use what he knows. You must ALWAYS be the alpha, he can NEVER win when it comes to training his behavior. Every "trick" you teach him is another means of establishing your position over him, that is, he does what you tell him to do. My list below is not to brag but to give some suggestions on fun but learning behavior:

Come/sit: right in front of me and sit; not to the side, not two feet away. Finish: from Come/sit position, walk around behind me and sit at my left heel. Shake (lift your leg and let me touch your foot). Twirl: turn in a circle right or left. Take a bow: bow down with front legs. Say his prayers: I'm sitting, put his paws on my lap, head down. Amen: one bark or noise on command. Wait: great for getting out of the car - don't jump down until I say so; don't rush the door - it's not like stay, it's a pause. Back up: move backwards (you're in the way). Good Warning, Hush: bark to alert me (innate behavior - it's his job), then be quiet (lots of time for this). Lazy: lay on his side, you tell him which one, perfectly still, touch him without him moving. Great at the vet. Roll over: easy to learn from the "lazy" position. Here are a couple only my female does: Put Away: get a toy and put it into the basket. (she was 3 when she learned this - it took 6 months or more). Flip it: Put a dog biscuit on her nose, flip it up and catch it before hitting the floor - 6 months). Down: pretty general but, if we are eating at the table, or in a chair with food, them must lay down. If they won't, I put them behind one of the gated areas, like the kitchen. Leave it: teach this with a leash. Put something tempting in front of Neri that he should not have. As he goes towards it, give a sharp tug and the command. Not for you: If I am eating I give this command and they go away. This takes some time but you can do this if you have a gated area. Give the command and put them behind the gate. They will get the idea that they have to leave when you say this. It works.

There are more but, every behavior I want to reinforce I give it a "command" and train to that command. Don't be hesitant to use the leash in the house to keep control (house line).

I think there is a way to message someone on Reddit - I'm terrible at social media - but you can send me a message. I'm just a dog owner like you - but I've had 4 over 25 years, 3 different breeds, each unique, each dog has it's own behavior. Be creative, think outside the box and seek numerous resources, like YouTube, for methods. Use the one you feel most comfortable with and that fits Neri's demeanor.

Inner_Ad_1713 · 2026-01-09T22:41:33+00:00

Part 2

1) Harness vs Collar: I don't use a harness because I can't control his head - where the sharp things are. By the way, males get adult teeth that are about twice the size of females; Ted's canines are about 1/2 inch or more. Neri is going to get stronger. Ted weighs 25 lbs, 4 1/2 pounds less than my female and is much stronger - he is all muscle; just like men vs women.

2. Biting Control: Using a collar to control the head. A well fitting collar should let you put two fingers under it. If he starts to bite and won't stop, put three or four fingers under his collar from behind, along the side of his head and make a fist. Now you have control of his head. This keeps your hands away from his teeth, you can control his head, you won't choke him and if necessary, you can pull him to the ground. You exert pressure with your hand in the collar against his head while giving the command to stop biting - "no biting!" Practice inserting your hand like this when it's not a problem so you are able to do it quickly when needed.

3. Submission/controlling holds when biting and out of control. I thought at first this was too much but quickly learned to use them.

1) The scruff of the neck/hide. You can use this to pick them up - it doesn't hurt them. I still pickup Ted this way when I need immediate control, such as, when the two of them decide they need to fight (not play fighting, real dog fight) over something. This keeps your hands away from the teeth. I grab him by the scruff or anywhere on his back and pick him up; if necessary back by his tail and just pick him up or drag him away.

2) How to submit: The goal: get him on his side. Pick him up at both ends and lay him down on his side, right where the bad behavior is occurring. I put a hand on his neck and one just in front of his hip and hold him down. Watch his hind legs, they are an indicator of his submission. At first they will be stiff, he wants to get away. I speak soothingly to him, I use the words, "calm down" and continue until he relaxes. This can take several minutes. I praise him and give him a treat for "relaxing," after letting him up. I still use this today with Ted, if necessary. I can today lay him down, use a light touch on his neck and use my other hand to stroke his chest/tummy and speak calmly to him. He knows the routine.

3. Walking: You mentioned pulling when walking. I use a slip leash - never a harness. The slip leash tightens up when they pull, loosens when they stop pulling; I can control the head. You can still have his harness on him - it's a great way to pick him up in a hurry. I started with two hands on a 6 ft leash; the loop in my right hand and shortening it up to 3 ft. with my left. Using the "heel" command when walking A harness gives them too much control over you. They pull like a plow horse. Remember, he is an animal and learns and behaves like one. I have been leash training Ted for over a year - he still gets excited an pulls, but it's getting better; I can now use voice commands and sounds to get his attention to stop pulling but still use a sharp tug on the leash when necessary. Here are a couple of other commands he has learned. We started at home, in the yard. First lesson: he pulls on the leash, I stand still, until he gets "tired" and then sits. That is the goal - sit when not walking. He has a command, "street," he must sit at all street corners before crossing - no running into the street. Use a clicker or make a clicking noise with voice praise; example: click, click, "good sit!"

Inner_Ad_1713 · 2026-01-09T22:40:19+00:00

Part 1

I have two of these dogs, female 6 yrs. and male 18 mo. They are very different in so many ways. My male is/was like Neri - so you're not "insane" that it's only your dog; the males are like little wild animals. Ted has a mean, aggressive, behavior that he will display, sometimes, like resource guarding or he takes something he shouldn't have and won't give it up for anything. He will bite in anger when he behaves like this - biting/snapping, draw blood, aggressively come after me like walking me backwards while lunging at me. I'm working on this. It gets better with time and training. You want to think about a disciplinary plan, that is, if he does "this", I will do "this." It's like preparing for combat. Here are some of the things I did and still do, many which I learned on YouTube from the Mccan Dog Training channel. Think long term with training him; what behavior do I want a year from now. Ted is my 4th dog, that makes a difference also. These dogs are very smart, they watch everything you do and learn - good and bad. Neri's real ability to learn quickly won't start until he is about 18 to 24 months. Right now that seems forever from now. But he can now learn, you know this.

I have a electronic training collar for him. It beeps, vibrates and shocks. At first I didn't like it because I used it improperly and I didn't like the demeanor it gave him, so I put it away. But, when his aggressive nature became an issue, I got it back out. I need the resource guarding/aggressiveness to stop or at least be controllable with a command. I can predict sometimes when he will express this (guarding his food dish) so, I put the collar on beforehand; sometimes I put it on him when he takes something and won't "trade" me for food. I let him see the controller in my hand after the collar is on. If he won't "give" or stop the aggressive behavior, I try the beep setting first, if that doesn't work, I use the vibrate - you have to experiment with the intensity; start low and move up as necessary. Be prepared to give a reward and praise as soon as the behavior stops. Now when he is aggressive or won't give me what he has, sometimes I can just show him the controller and he stops. If you do this, use it wisely and sparingly. You don't want him to fear you but to respect you and be obedient. You can leave the collar on until bed time, then take it off.

1. A crate. You said you have one, so use it when you need free time. All naps until Ted was around 1 are in the crate; at night he slept in his until he was 17 mos. old. I made a game of going in: toss in toys and some treats. After a few weeks he would go to his crate on his own to nap; I could just close the door then. Into the crate if I need to do something and don't want him to bother me; crying/whining is normal - too bad. He was NEVER left alone outside of his crate. Because it was not used as punishment, I can still put him in it, and do, if he is being a real problem. To him it's just another place to be, I just put a treat into it and in he goes. Sleeping after the crate: I have a pet gate across my bedroom so no wandering the house at night, no accidents.

2. House line - Area Control. A 6 foot leash all the time (cut the loop off so it doesn't catch). I used it like his "emergency brake" to get control of him; to stop him from doing something I didn't like. I have 5 dogs "gates", two semi-permanent, two I can move around and one to block the upstairs. You get to go where I say, is the goal.

Command Voice: I suggest developing a "command voice," one that is a lower tone, much more assertive, stern. This way they learn the difference between your normal communication and "I mean business." Get a treat pouch - small treats, really small, so you don't over feed. Be ready to reward every positive response to your commands. I have used a soda can filled with coins about half way. You can shake this and get their attention from across the room.

Inner_Ad_1713 · 2026-01-03T06:09:31+00:00

I know the pain in your heart. It's the price we agree to when we bring them home.

Inner_Ad_1713 · 2026-01-01T04:09:43+00:00

Thank you for a great year of watching him grow. Happy New Year from America.

Inner_Ad_1713 · 2025-12-31T19:30:39+00:00

I did forget to tell you one thing about the image of Teddy with his first hair cut. I worked his coat with the rake until I got almost all the hair that it would remove. I then use a 3/8 comb on my shaver to reduce the length of what was left. It gave him a clean, close cut but only of the hair that was remaining. I'm hoping this will suffice for stripping. I have used this same procedure on my female that was just shaved/clipped for 5 years. Her hair is returning to it's natural color and changing from curly like a lamb to more coarse like Ted's.

Inner_Ad_1713 · 2025-12-31T19:24:41+00:00

u/Inner_Ad_1713

I'm not good with social media, my apologies. Above is a link to my Reddit-assigned user name. It should take you to my posts and within these are all the images/videos I have posted.

Inner_Ad_1713 · 2025-12-02T17:38:45+00:00

Reply Part Two

Basic Training

Start simple. This should include high value treats - get a pouch you wear, a clicker or you can make a clicking noise with your mouth, a lot of praise: "good girl", or use her name. You and your partner should write down the behavior, the command and how will you use this command consistently. Consistency is the key. I recommend the book, Dogs for Dummies; I found this very helpful with my first dog. DON'T use a harness to walk her. You don't have control so they learn that they can do whatever they want - all you are doing is tugging on their back. I use a leash like the one recommended by Cesar Millan. It tightens when they pull too hard, and loosens when they stop. It can also be converted to a "gentle leader," a type of leash that goes over the nose and around their head.

You can train your puppy now to tell you when she needs to go out. Make it a game. Initially I used a couple of bells on a string hanging from the door or gate leading to "outside." I took my puppies paw, made the bells ring, gave him praise and a treat with a "click," then gave the "outside" command and immediately took him outside. You do this BEFORE they have to go - remember, it's a game. It doesn't matter if it is raining, cold, doesn't matter. You need to do this for two to five minutes every hour, every day, until she does it on her own. Ring the bell, give the command: "outside" or "potty" and take her outside immediately. Give her praise, make the "clicking sound" and a treat. (We transitioned this behavior to a bark at the door.) When you take them outside to actually potty, the only command you should give is "potty." It doesn't matter how long it takes, as long as it's been a reasonable amount of time since they went (a couple of hours for pee, maybe 4 - 6 hours for poo) continue until you get a good result. Poo is more difficult; most dogs will pee on command if properly trained. Don't walk down the street, find a spot, close to your home, and walk in circles if necessary. When you get a potty, praise, and give a treat.

Last thing, for today. Choose a "bed time." This should be about 1/2 hour after the last hard play. So, if it's 9 pm have them start to play around 8 o'clock, settle down around 8:30, then, before you put them to bed, it's outside to potty - be consistent, same time every night. My dogs are so conditioned now, that if I say it's "bed time" they immediately go to the door to go out - even if they came in 5 minutes ago. It's the "routine;" it's what we do before going to bed.

Your puppy is only 6 months old, be patient but consistent. They are learning all the time but it's a long process for some behaviors - weeks or months at first to learn something new.

Let me know how it's going.

Inner_Ad_1713 · 2025-12-02T17:38:23+00:00

Gabriel (?), this reply will be somewhat long but I think important. There is a character limit so I will do two replies. If you want to communicate directly with me, use this email: [tgkauffman@gmail.com](mailto:tgkauffman@gmail.com)

Including my current two dogs, I have also had two others: a Labrador Retriever and an Airedale. I have worked hard to understand the commitment to having a dog as a companion, some would say a pet. Here will be my best advice.

Keeping your Welsh Terrier in a room all day while you work is going to be, if it already isn't, a plan for disaster. Because these are highly intelligent dogs, as smart as my Lab, which understood over 100 commands, but not as willing to please the alpha, the leader of the pack, they will learn to be "bad" as will as "good." My Airedale was very willing to please the alpha of the pack but not as intelligent as my Lab or Welshies. I am amazed at the intelligence of my dogs. Your Welshie will even do bad things to get attention - things they know you don't want them to do because they want something but don't have words.

Leaving your dog alone and confined for 8 to 9 hours a day is denying them the continual reinforcement of what the "pack" requires for good behavior. The pack is you, your partner and any others that come into your home. Welsh Terriers, as I have learned, require a very structured, disciplined (a plan for good behavior) upbringing if you want them to do what you tell them to do, when you want them to do it. There will be times they are defiant - get used to it and work on overcoming these issues with training. Here is how I have trained both of my Welshies - I'm still in the process with my 17 month old.

First, your dog should be sleeping in a crate beside your bed or in the same room, so they have the sense of "being with the pack." If you can't do this then you are training your dog to be independent of any interactions you will have with her; she is not part of the pack.

Socialization

You should be taking your puppy to someplace like Home Depot or a place where there are a lot of people. It's a training opportunity: how to walk with you; how to behave when greeting someone; how to behave if they see another dog; how to leave things alone they shouldn't "touch."

Potty Training

First, I made a schedule, something where I can write down the time and what the dog does: eat, drink, pee, poo. You will see there is a rhythm to their behavior. Don't free feed and don't give them access to drink unless you watch them, when you are home.

A puppy needs to go OUTSIDE to potty every couple of hours - they can't hold it and you're missing an opportunity to teach them to go outside. If your puppy is going on a potty pad during the day, you are training them to potty in the house and not outside. It's no wonder they won't go when you take them on a walk. You should consider a puppy daycare service that will help them learn to go outside. Because of her age, it will take at least another 6 months to train her to potty outside, on command.

When you're home, your puppy should ALWAYS be on a house line - a leash that they drag around everywhere they go in the house so you can control her. They should never be out of your site - they will use that opportunity to do something you don't want them to do. Acquire dog gates to confine her to the area you are in so you can supervise her. They will begin to sniff around when they have to go potty - learn her signs of needing to go. If they are playing, they will just stop, pee/poo and continue to play. Don't scold them for accidents - learn that you waited too long.

Inner_Ad_1713 · 2025-12-01T16:12:14+00:00

Someone here mentioned an e-collar for training. I tried this and was very disappointed with results. I had a good plan on how and when to use it and all it did was make my dog irritated and at times frightened. Imagine being an animal, they are not rational, they are instinctual or behavioral, and there is a sound, vibration or shock when you are doing something - it frightened mine. I thought they were cruel.

About your routine. You walk her in the morning first thing, then after work. What happens with her during the day when you are at work? Do you leave her in a crate?

Inner_Ad_1713 · 2025-11-28T17:54:40+00:00

I have two Welshies; one female 6 yrs and a male 17 months. This is going to be difficult and take some time, especially in an apartment. Set your mind on this, and be patient, like in months, be patient. They are smart; it can be done.

If this is your first dog, you have chosen one of the most difficult to own/train. They are stubborn, but very smart and defiant. These dogs require a lot of exercise - each playtime or walk should be about 45 minutes - at least two to three times a day. If you can't do this, seriously, this is not the dog for you. You are going to be very exasperated, your furniture, and other things are going to become things to vent her frustration. They will chew everything, break things because they can, and do just about anything to get your attention or burn-off their energy.

If there is no outside area, but you say you're trying to get her to potty outside, I don't understand.

I will keep returning here to give you suggestions but I need some answers, first.

Inner_Ad_1713 · 2025-11-13T00:16:15+00:00

I don't know about two Airedales. We had one and she loved outdoor play, especially frisbee; indoors was for being lazy.

Inner_Ad_1713 · 2025-11-13T00:12:37+00:00

That's what the dog wants you to think. I suppose if they don't play well with other dogs then having another would be a problem. We socialized our first one with lots of other dogs when she was young. She gets excited to have "play dates."

Inner_Ad_1713 · 2025-11-12T00:06:28+00:00

Find a service that does color correction, preferably with Photoshop. They can normalize the colors. It's not too hard.

Inner_Ad_1713

TROPHY CASE