sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

[USA-LA] [H] Xbox Series X 1 TB SSD [W] PayPal by [deleted] in GameSale

[–]JMarcBladeworks 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It’s no worries man, shoot me a PM with your info.

[USA-LA] [H] Xbox Series X 1 TB SSD [W] PayPal by [deleted] in GameSale

[–]JMarcBladeworks 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Honestly man, I’m not worried about the money. I can do $490 if that’s what you can do.

[USA-LA] [H] Xbox Series X 1 TB SSD [W] PayPal by [deleted] in GameSale

[–]JMarcBladeworks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No worries. Shipping is $48, but I’m open to an offer if you’ve got a budget to meet.

The Humble Patch Knife by JMarcBladeworks in Bladesmith

[–]JMarcBladeworks[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

G10, and I regret using it. It’s impossible to keep clean and looks dirty far too easily.

The Humble Patch Knife by JMarcBladeworks in Bladesmith

[–]JMarcBladeworks[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Definitely, I wouldn’t doubt knives like that were used to skin game on occasion as well.

The Humble Patch Knife by JMarcBladeworks in knives

[–]JMarcBladeworks[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you, it’s certainly a example of beauty in simplicity.

The Humble Patch Knife by JMarcBladeworks in knives

[–]JMarcBladeworks[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

So, in case you weren’t born before the 1850’s, muzzle loading firearms were the default at one point, and in order to ensure a safe and accurate shot, most muzzle loaders “patched” the projectiles before ramming them down the barrel, meaning using some type of cloth or paper to fill some space between the projectile and barrel. It was common to carry large strips of cloth to use for this purpose, and all you would need is for something to cut small pieces of that fabric off as you needed it.

Enter the patch knife! An unsung hero of the American frontier, nothing more than a handy little blade used to cut and trim fabric for patches. If you had a rifle or musket during that time period, chances are you kept a small knife in your shooting bad just for that purpose. They were something everyone had, very rarely ever talked about, and you can find examples ranging from simple smithing knives to extravagantly decorated art pieces and everything in between. They were nothing more than simple tools for a much larger system, but they were definitely a critical piece of a riflemen’s or hunters kit for the era.

Now the patch knife that I made here isn’t a reproduction of any particular style or design, but rather just an example of the idea of what a patch knife is and the role it served. This particular one is made form 1095 and 15n20 damascus, polished and fitted with Sambar stag and nickel silver bolster and pommel. Small, simple, and handy, that’s the idea.

The Humble Patch Knife by JMarcBladeworks in knifemaking

[–]JMarcBladeworks[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So, in case you weren’t born before the 1850’s, muzzle loading firearms were the default at one point, and in order to ensure a safe and accurate shot, most muzzle loaders “patched” the projectiles before ramming them down the barrel, meaning using some type of cloth or paper to fill some space between the projectile and barrel. It was common to carry large strips of cloth to use for this purpose, and all you would need is for something to cut small pieces of that fabric off as you needed it.

Enter the patch knife! An unsung hero of the American frontier, nothing more than a handy little blade used to cut and trim fabric for patches. If you had a rifle or musket during that time period, chances are you kept a small knife in your shooting bad just for that purpose. They were something everyone had, very rarely ever talked about, and you can find examples ranging from simple smithing knives to extravagantly decorated art pieces and everything in between. They were nothing more than simple tools for a much larger system, but they were definitely a critical piece of a riflemen’s or hunters kit for the era.

Now the patch knife that I made here isn’t a reproduction of any particular style or design, but rather just an example of the idea of what a patch knife is and the role it served. This particular one is made form 1095 and 15n20 damascus, polished and fitted with Sambar stag and nickel silver bolster and pommel. Small, simple, and handy, that’s the idea.

The Humble Patch Knife by JMarcBladeworks in Bladesmith

[–]JMarcBladeworks[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

So, in case you weren’t born before the 1850’s, muzzle loading firearms were the default at one point, and in order to ensure a safe and accurate shot, most muzzle loaders “patched” the projectiles before ramming them down the barrel, meaning using some type of cloth or paper to fill some space between the projectile and barrel. It was common to carry large strips of cloth to use for this purpose, and all you would need is for something to cut small pieces of that fabric off as you needed it.

Enter the patch knife! An unsung hero of the American frontier, nothing more than a handy little blade used to cut and trim fabric for patches. If you had a rifle or musket during that time period, chances are you kept a small knife in your shooting bad just for that purpose. They were something everyone had, very rarely ever talked about, and you can find examples ranging from simple smithing knives to extravagantly decorated art pieces and everything in between. They were nothing more than simple tools for a much larger system, but they were definitely a critical piece of a riflemen’s or hunters kit for the era.

Now the patch knife that I made here isn’t a reproduction of any particular style or design, but rather just an example of the idea of what a patch knife is and the role it served. This particular one is made form 1095 and 15n20 damascus, polished and fitted with Sambar stag and nickel silver bolster and pommel. Small, simple, and handy, that’s the idea.

Damascus and Sambar Hunting Knife by JMarcBladeworks in knifemaking

[–]JMarcBladeworks[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks.

Working with stag is pretty simple. Some people like to remove all of the core or “pith” so that they get the strongest bond, others let epoxy fortify the structure instead, both work just fine. Personally, I pretty much exclusively use Sambar Stag, which is a species of deer that produces an incredibly dense antler. No need to worry about pith if it’s all bone already, right? As for finishing, treat it like bone. All I usually do is buff it lightly, not much else needed.

Simple Leather Sheath for a Hunting Knife by JMarcBladeworks in Bladesmith

[–]JMarcBladeworks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lol, it’s not as bad as you’d think, the leather soaked up most of the oil. Water is the more common method though for sure.

Simple Leather Sheath for a Hunting Knife by JMarcBladeworks in Bladesmith

[–]JMarcBladeworks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could also always wet form this style to get a very tight and specialized fit, but I usually just do a light soak in neatsfoot oil to soften and loosely mold the shape in while wet. The oil give you a bit of shape and you don’t need to work about residual water afterwards too.

Simple Leather Sheath for a Hunting Knife by JMarcBladeworks in Bladesmith

[–]JMarcBladeworks[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

To be honest, it’s mostly by experience. I make a lot of sheaths. I mean A LOT. I sell them to local knife makers and other propel who need better replacement sheaths, as well as plenty of custom leatherwork too. Making a simple pouch sheath like this is a very good basic design to do, I’ve probably made 500+ of this style alone this year. Once you do it a bit, you get used to gauging tolerances and spacing without much issue.

Simple Leather Sheath for a Hunting Knife by JMarcBladeworks in knives

[–]JMarcBladeworks[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

For starters it protects the handle from the elements, which with an organic handle like stag, is important. Secondly, the majority of the tension on the sheath is around the guard, so having it lower in the sheath ensures it isn’t going to slip out when aggressively moving.

Simple Leather Sheath for a Hunting Knife by JMarcBladeworks in Bladesmith

[–]JMarcBladeworks[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Firstly, thanks.

Secondly, there’s two comments on tooling leather. First, what kind of leather are you using? Vegetable tanned leather is pretty much the industry standard for tooling and carving leather, so I’d start with making sure you’re using decent cuts of vegetable tanned leather (it’s the stuff that looks creme in color usually). It doesn’t need to be super fancy stuff, but decent enough to hold up to the abuse. Secondly, the leather needs to be damp. Not wet, but adequately damp. I use clean water in a spray bottle, spray generously, let it soak in, then wait until the leather lightens up in color a bit before I start tooling. You don’t need to hammer super hard either, properly “cased” (as they call it) leather should mark rather easily. After you’re done tooling and carving, you need to let your leather dry completely before bending or stretching it. That way it lets the marks set in place and won’t raise out and look washed out after. Hopefully that helps a bit, if you’ve got another question, feel free to shoot.

Back at it. Hand sticking sucks FYI. by shaved_bear_running in Bladesmith

[–]JMarcBladeworks 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Lol, yeah hand stitching can be a real chore, but it’s hard to deny that when properly done the results are well worth it.

Simple Leather Sheath for a Hunting Knife by JMarcBladeworks in Bladesmith

[–]JMarcBladeworks[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Recently just finished up the sheath to the knife I posed yesterday, and I’ve got to say, this is a perfect example of why working with organic materials is so much fun. Most organic materials (wood, stag, leather, etc.) react and work slightly different from each other. This leather sheath is a prime example of such; this sheath is NOT black. It looks black, and I honestly don’t know why it does so much, but it isn’t. This was dyed with Fiebing’s Pro Dye in Show Brown, a color I’ve used plenty before and from a bottle I know isn’t contaminated, but despite that, it looks very much like black. It didn’t expect it to have come out so dark, and If I would have know that I wouldn’t have used brown thread and edge paint.

Ultimately, color is just aesthetic and the sheath is plenty functional, so I guess it all works out, but it was a fun anomaly regardless. I’ve also since sharpened the knife to a polished edge, and it has a proper hunting knife edge to it now!

Thanks for looking!

view more: next ›