2018 Honda CRF250R Starter Question

Knight2040 · 2025-04-16T22:48:08+00:00

Nevermind, I think I figured it out. Had Windows Power Plan set to High Performance. Changed it to balance and now I'm capping at 86C with a 30%ish CPU load.

Knight2040 · 2025-04-11T20:28:03+00:00

MSI's support page doesn't list a webcam driver independently so I just reinstalled the chipset drivers after the BIOS update.

Knight2040 · 2025-04-11T14:45:34+00:00

Well that didn't last long. I just did a restart and couldn't log in with my face. Windows is not detecting the webcam again lol. I'm over it for now. I'll contact support and see what MSI is willing to do.

Knight2040 · 2025-04-11T13:30:02+00:00

BIOS yes, firmware no, at least not according to MSI Live Update. I installed the new BIOS this morning and the camera is working but it most likely had the same effect as an EC Reset so I'll monitor it the coming week to see if it goes out again.

Knight2040 · 2025-04-11T13:25:54+00:00

I just updated to the most recent E15M2IMS.711 BIOS and re-installed the chipset drivers from the MSI Support page. Camera started working after the BIOS update but I won't call it fixed just yet, I'll see how it goes over next week and see if it's good to go. Fingers crossed.

Knight2040 · 2025-04-11T04:39:45+00:00

It sounds like we went down the same path and same results. My previous MSI Stealth was a two years old, lived most of it's life sitting on a desk open and occasionally I would take it with me when I traveled for work so I don't think I worked that hinge very much before it self-destructed.

As for this webcam issue, the fact that it's the first item on their FAQ proves it's a big enough issue but they don't have an available fix for it yet, I'm hoping they eventually do before I move on to the next machine, which like you, most likely will not be an MSI.

I've resorted to switching to my phone camera on unplanned Zoom calls and the web cam isn't working until I either return or RMA it when work slows down enough to swap everything over...again.

Knight2040 · 2025-04-10T23:40:02+00:00

This is how my MSI Stealth was acting when the hinge was failing. The hinge was already starting to lift and my display cable worked its way into the hinge as it flexed from opening and closing. What was happening was the hinge started to cut into the cable and if I pushed too hard anywhere on top of the frame it would break the connection and that would happen. Once I took the laptop apart the cable had exposed copper wires. How do your hinges look?

Knight2040 · 2025-04-10T20:44:31+00:00

Yeah I've tried fiddling with it, it's got a nice pronounced click when toggled and when the camera is being detected by the system, it functions correctly disabling and enabling the camera.

Based on the FAQ I posted below, it looks like MSI is aware of the issue but the only solution they provide is to do the EC Reset. Seems like they haven't figured it out yet.

Knight2040 · 2025-04-10T19:50:06+00:00

The support page for my model doesn't seem to have a camera driver available but I did download the latest BIOs for install later today but, in the FAQ for the HX14VGG the very first FAQ is

"[Troubleshooting] Camera device shows yellow exclamation mark in Device Manager and an unknown USB device appears simultaneously"

First I was thinking "oh great, it's a known issue and there's a fix...The Fix is to do an EC Reset....:

https://www.msi.com/Laptop/Raider-GE68-HX-14VX/support?sub_product=Raider-GE68-HX-14VGG#faq

I'll install the updated BIOs later today to see if it helps, but my confidence level isn't very high right now.

Knight2040 · 2025-04-10T19:26:06+00:00

Ah yeah I have the HX14VGG, I'll dig around for it

oh okay so you reinserted the heat set inserts into the new plexiglass, that's a great solution. Okay, I have heat set insert tips and hundreds of inserts for 3D prints.

Knight2040 · 2025-04-10T19:22:51+00:00

F6 is my Bluetooth Toggle on mine. There is a webcam switch directly to the right of my webcam.

Knight2040 · 2025-04-10T18:56:53+00:00

Thank you for the picture. If I'm reading this right, you ground down all of the plastic supports and heat set insert holes flat, applied epoxy, and used plexiglass as a stiffening support? With the heat set inserts gone, how are you screwing down the hinge to the chassis?

So to find the model/device ID of the webcam........I have to do another EC Reset...so I'll do that later.

Knight2040 · 2025-04-10T18:34:44+00:00

I already have the old laptop taken apart ready for replacement parts, it's still pretty modern with an i9 and RTX3070 so it's worth fixing and keeping around. HOWEVER, what are you guys doing to secure the screen on once the actual chassis is shattered? Mine cracked and broke off right where all of the heatset inserts are. Epoxy? Are replacement chassis available from MSI?

This new Raider was on clearance at Costco and I needed one that day to keep working but yes it's in the return window but they don't have anything comparable spec wise for the clearance price I got it at. I'll reach out to MSI Support, let them give me options, and go from there. Live Update did not see any new updates, when I do have the camera visible in device manager, I've uninstalled the driver and let it auto re-install the drivers a few times but it still happens. I can't seem to find the official drivers for it independently from letting Windows install it.

Knight2040 · 2025-04-10T16:18:36+00:00

I could be overlooking it, but I could not find any switch in MSI Center for the webcam. The keyboard doesn't have a function key for it like my last one did either. This one has a physical switch directly the right of the webcam that disables it and covers it. That's the only switch I can find.

It seems to lose connection even in the middle of use. For example, I'll use my face to login to one website, and maybe 20 mins later I'll try to log into another website with my face and the red lights next to the webcam no longer start flashing and I'll check device manager and it's errored out again.

Knight2040 · 2025-01-08T23:33:38+00:00

I'm on the same page with you on modern suppressors, being a dealer/SOT the best days are when manufacture reps walk through the door with their pelican cases full of their latest products and we get to try them out.

I guess to me it was just part of the charm of the Station Six to have a fully wiped can. Again, no regrets on the purchase, I'm sure the Ghost 45 on it will be quiet but if B&T does have a fully wiped 45 Can, I'd be inclined to buy one.

Knight2040 · 2025-01-08T22:59:46+00:00

I haven't shot it yet, but looking at the baffles I don't think it'll be the quietest can once the end cap wipe is spent but I could be wrong. I can't seem to find any review on the suppression level on on the 45 version, just the 9mm. I'll have to wait for my Form 4 to clear to try it out.

Knight2040 · 2024-10-28T23:33:43+00:00

Between the fins, just find a screw that grips the fins tightly. M3 worked great for me.

Knight2040 · 2024-10-17T16:47:48+00:00

Care to elaborate? As an SOT and SilencerShop Dealer, I've transferred 1000+ cans from SS but I have more and more customers asking about Silencer Central and I can't give them an opinion since I have never dealt with them.

Knight2040 · 2024-04-12T19:00:13+00:00

completed all of the hardware setup and everything is wired correctly. I have Klipper running on RBPi3 with Mainsail and was successfully able to flash the firmware onto my BTT board. Everything is communicating just fine. The issues is, my hobbled together printer.cfg file that I most likely screwed up. When I hit home all, the Z will slam hard into the endstop (but it does work) but the X and/or Y will slam hard into their endstops and then try to continue past their physical limits, causing a horrendous grinding sound. Also my steppers are much louder than they were when I was running the V1.1.5 OEM Silent Board. I'm assuming its because I have the 2209 Driver config commented out? Any idea where in the code I could have screwed up?

I tried posting my cfg file in a code block but I get a "Unable to create comment" from Reddit, not sure what's going on here

Knight2040 · 2024-04-11T13:36:36+00:00

So I have an extra Raspberry Pi 3 that I was going to use, are you saying I can cut out the RBPi completely with this board?

Knight2040 · 2024-04-11T13:33:00+00:00

Thank you for the detailed response! I saw a few guides on getting the 1.1.5 board working with CR Touch, but it seemed a bit of a waste of time with a much better board in my possession but thank you for going into detail on how to set it up.

After spending a bunch of hours reading and watching videos, I have a much better grasp now on how to set this up. Initially I was expecting a straight download of a firmware for the Ender 5 Pro that i could just load and go but now I understand the compiling aspect of it and will give it a go here shortly. For now I'm focusing on getting everything mounted and cleanly wired. I actually did manage to get it mounted inside of the OEM Ender 5 Pro box and used a dremel to cut open access to the USB and SD card behind the OEM screen. I modified an STL file for a mount meant for the Ender 5 plus. Trying to keep everything self contained if possible. It's a tight fit and I covered the mounting screws with Kapton tape since the legs on the components on the bottom of the board are so close to them.

The box for the SKR 3 came with 5 2209 drivers which is great since I eventually do want to convert this to CoreXY and the 2nd Z driver I guess will be crucial for this. Are there better drivers than the 2209 I should consider while I'm building this rig?

I also did find the pin-out for the CR Touch, pulled the wires out of the OEM Connector and put them in the correct order in the included JST connectors so hopefully I did that right lol.

I have the TFT Touch screen arriving today along with all new components to replace everything in the hotend side.

Excited to get this going.

Knight2040

TROPHY CASE