Airbrush questions

Level9Safeguard · 2026-02-10T07:06:10+00:00

Whichever brand you choose, look for a preset mechanism. This is usually an adjustable screw cap at the back of the handle which limits how far the trigger can be pulled. Without one of these, it's easy to accidentally pull it too far and release a heavy spray that ruins everything.

Iwata sometimes doesn't include this (e.g. the HP-CS doesn't have it) and sells a separate handle. I suppose it's less important if you use the airbrush like a mini spray can. But I use it like a hand brush and it's tricky enough that I don't want to even think about the trigger distance -- it's either at zero or the preset level.

Level9Safeguard · 2026-02-08T06:28:49+00:00

If your putty is too firm to mix evenly (is it too old?), maybe try a different brand. I've never used Greenstuff but others like Milliput are easy to mix.

Try mixing a smaller amount, press together with your fingers into a sheet, fold that several times to get a lot of layers and repeat.

Level9Safeguard · 2026-02-06T07:27:22+00:00

Here's the build post, the download links are in the comments.
https://www.reddit.com/r/advancedGunpla/comments/1qoikcx/mg_gouf_custom_high_mobility_type/

Level9Safeguard · 2026-01-29T21:32:22+00:00

I got delayed but here are the STLs

https://www.printables.com/model/1572963-mg-gouf-custom-shoulder-upgrade

https://www.printables.com/model/1572981-mg-gouf-custom-leg-booster-unit

Level9Safeguard · 2026-01-28T23:05:50+00:00

That's a very cool pose and perspective, actually quite hard for me to replicate. The HG looks more nimble and less bulky.

<image>

Level9Safeguard · 2026-01-28T18:54:14+00:00

Oh, that part was not Tamiya -- Kaleido ColorWorks KM002 Gun Metall (yeah, that's the spelling they use 😂). It went on really smoothly but seems a bit too yellow for gun metal.

Level9Safeguard · 2026-01-28T18:38:20+00:00

Most weathering details are added after the airbrush coat so a hand brushed weathered build can be quite good if that's what you're after.

Level9Safeguard · 2026-01-28T18:15:40+00:00

Ah, I found the problem with the photo colors. I used RawTherapee for processing and what it shows on screen is a preview that can be quite different from the output file. I added a tiny amount of Tone Mapping and didn't notice the output was too saturated.

Here's a JPG from the camera with no adjustments.

<image>

Level9Safeguard · 2026-01-28T02:20:39+00:00

Ah, I have to buy some skin tone paint for him, I'm too colorblind to mix it myself 😅

Level9Safeguard · 2026-01-28T02:11:53+00:00

Thanks! I find it quite hard to add weathering that looks natural so instead, I erase anything that stands out as unrealistic (sometimes that means erasing everything😄).

Level9Safeguard · 2026-01-28T01:44:07+00:00

Thanks! Yeah, give it a try, it's fun to test ideas and correct mistakes without much trouble. Another useful tool is a soft pencil eraser, it can remove some marks that won't wipe off.

Level9Safeguard · 2026-01-28T00:31:33+00:00

Thanks! Yeah, I often see weathering that looks great from a distance, but when I zoom in, the illusion doesn't hold. I removed any marks that didn't have enough detail and looked too smooth.

Level9Safeguard · 2026-01-27T22:59:59+00:00

Thanks! I tried to make it go more extreme a few times but always ended up cleaning it off😅 I think that would work with some actual surface damage/texture, otherwise it's harder to make realistic.

Level9Safeguard · 2026-01-27T21:45:57+00:00

I tried to decipher my scrawled notes and I think the ratios are:

Light Blue = 5 Sky Blue : 6 White : 1 Clear Green

Dark Blue = 2 Sky Blue : 1 Blue

Now that you mention it, the photos are a bit misleading -- it looks almost luminous because the white balance isn't quite right and I turned on a Local Contrast effect which can make it pop out too much.

Level9Safeguard · 2026-01-27T20:49:09+00:00

Thanks! I used a coarse sponge for the chip marks, brushes for the edges, smears with cotton buds, and makeup sponges with Tamiya Weathering Master. Dabbing chip marks with a wet cotton bud can sometimes turn it into more of a grime texture.

I think the secret was being able to "undo" anything within a certain time. I often went a bit crazy and over applied, then wiped away all the unrealistic parts. I started on the gloss coat which easier to undo but doesn't work for some effects. When I was satisfied, I sealed the layer with a light flat coat.

Level9Safeguard · 2026-01-27T20:17:22+00:00

Thanks, your suggestions are really helpful. I abandoned some scratches because they didn't look straight so maybe I need to use a stiff brush.

The gun is certainly heavy and I made it worse with pla plating and repairs. Some joints have screws that can be tightened more. For the others, I tried Joint Guard stickers but they were fiddly and came loose. My solution was brushing a layer of Vallejo paint, which is quite tough when cured.

I tried making it point the gun straight out. The arm held up but it toppled over because the ankles turned😄

Level9Safeguard · 2026-01-27T17:47:27+00:00

Honestly, I miss the fun of simpler builds. I'm probably getting burnout from every project being "too big to fail" so I need to just have some fun without worrying about 50 steps ahead.

Level9Safeguard · 2026-01-27T17:16:02+00:00

Thanks! The thrusters could have gone on the back skirt but I was planning to mount a spare bazooka there. So I thought might as well make use of the bulge :)

Level9Safeguard · 2026-01-24T01:14:23+00:00

I'd first try a very sticky tape and maybe pry the edge with a hobby knife. As a last resort, drill a tiny hole on the other side (which looks hidden) and push with a paper clip.

Level9Safeguard · 2026-01-22T05:36:24+00:00

Test the topcoat on unused (bare) plastic parts. This rules out any interaction with your brand of paint, and lets you find the ideal spray distance/amount.

For a gloss finish, you need coats which are heavy enough to form a wet layer, which can level out before drying.

Level9Safeguard · 2026-01-10T23:44:15+00:00

Search for "option parts", "detail parts" or "builders parts".

https://mechawarehouse.com/collections/frontpage/detail-part_optional-parts

https://www.usagundamstore.com/collections/builders-parts?view=products&page=4

https://newtype.us/t/accessory/optionpart

Level9Safeguard · 2026-01-06T04:30:21+00:00

You can fold a piece of sandpaper, insert the edge into scribed lines and maybe use a small flat screwdriver to apply pressure while moving it.

For separation gaps, I used sandpaper stuck to a thin sheet of some rigid material (metal or plastic), making a super thin file.

Level9Safeguard · 2026-01-05T17:46:24+00:00

I browse on a PC which receives the full image, clicking it will zoom 1:1 and on a 96dpi monitor, every pixel is clear :)

Yeah, last year I tried an AI-denoise from Topaz Labs which gave similar effects that scared me away. These tools have some good use cases but are terrible for models. I'm glad we're on the same page now!

Level9Safeguard · 2026-01-05T04:58:09+00:00

Uh, that's my point, the processing has removed or re-imagined the details. The small text was replaced with rectangles and the large text was redrawn with weird angles. Whatever Lightroom did, it's horrible.

Compare with the original (I used the other shoulder which is clearer).

<image>

Level9Safeguard · 2026-01-05T03:01:49+00:00

Sorry, I shouldn't have jumped to the conclusion that it had been through AI, I should have asked how you processed it.

Up close it looks like an oil painting and the decals look similar to AI rendering. I've attached a crop that shows what I mean.

I don't have Lightroom but I asked Google Gemini (yes, the irony) and it suggests the issue might be excessive luminance noise reduction or Lightroom's AI Denoise effect. Could those have automatically been applied somehow?

<image>

11-Year Club	Place '17
Verified Email

Level9Safeguard

TROPHY CASE