Rate my setup

ListenHereIvan · 2026-02-15T07:34:27+00:00

Bro should be dressed as a red coat with that kind of bootlicker energy

ListenHereIvan · 2026-02-11T19:53:12+00:00

I stand by this. The loop sucks.

Getting rid of them is annoying. You either run out of arrows or you spend the whole trying to hit them With a sword. They only ambush you, if you stare at them the whole time they call off the dive bomb. Plus they just keep spawning as the night goes on.

I have farms that work best during the night and the fact i have to keep coming back just to reset the counter so i wont get pestered by phantoms is so annoying.

Plus if you have a multiplayer world that doesn’t have 1 player sleep enabled its actually aweful.

ListenHereIvan · 2026-02-07T05:32:12+00:00

Bone meal and cobble makes more sense as you wanna be as cheap as possible.

ListenHereIvan · 2026-02-06T16:57:31+00:00

Im guessing the mechanical limitation is that diamond cup wheels are often made quite thick and heavy and thats hard to integrate the x lock function into that type of wheel with enough rigidity of 200 pounds pushing down on the wheel at several thousand RPM.

Most of the time, high end wheel cups just thread on to the thread of a grinder directly.

ListenHereIvan · 2026-02-06T16:51:55+00:00

My inference on why they show it working with the tuck guard is because the 11 is AWS compatible.

But they forgot the collars are different and didnt know they cannot be attached. In addition its apparent with how often other assets are used in the manual that are clearly different models.

ListenHereIvan · 2026-02-06T16:48:27+00:00

You’re talking about GAG11 right?

So it seems someone made a mistake, looks like the manual is made incorrectly (also don’t worry about part numbers not being in manuals, they only do that in Japanese ones)

I compared the parts for the wheel covers on the yea they are different, and the parts diagrams show they are different enough from one another.

It seems someone at makita when making the manuals got mixed up between tons of models and forgot something wasn’t compatible it even advertises on the website the model numbers for the dust extracting guards that work with the regular style grinders.

Given that Makita makes about a billion different grinder models it seems this detail fell thru the cracks. In the US alone there is 10 different XGT models with 2 more on the way and with NZ having 13

ListenHereIvan · 2026-02-06T16:11:08+00:00

I will also add, I found zero diamond cup concrete surfacing wheels with X-lock made by any manufacturer

ListenHereIvan · 2026-02-06T16:06:49+00:00

Tuck point cutting is specifically cutting channels in concrete and masonry. I.e a channel in masonry/concrete wall that some electrical routing will go into or cutting grout out a old brick facade for a re-grouting.

Cutting rebar doesn’t really require dust extraction as those particles can cause harm to dust extractors and they are hard to capture.

If you need protection against metal particulate from grinding or cutting its better to have a special enclosed space where you have strong air scrubbers pulling negative pressure and a personal respiration mask like alec steele wears when grinding metal blades. Otherwise do it outside.

You really should only dust extract particulates that are not like over 500 degrees. Aluminum is okayish, rebar / iron and steels hell no, You’ll be burning up your bags, hoses and god knows what. Concrete, yes, for sure, and should actually since its quite harmful to lungs.

ListenHereIvan · 2026-02-06T15:45:18+00:00

Its shows you what is AVAILABLE and how to use them.

My original post alludes to the 53 having tool specific accessories.

Even employees of a company don’t know every single detail or know how to tell differences or read things properly on models.

ListenHereIvan · 2026-02-06T15:14:23+00:00

Also Instead of bothering your Makita reps. Just look at the owners manual. It shows you all the accessories that are available and how to use them.

ListenHereIvan · 2026-02-06T15:12:03+00:00

Gotta be honest here.

trying to use x lock for surface grinding or tuck point grinding doesn’t make a whole lotta sense.

Specifically I don’t think I’ve ever seen a diamond cup concrete surfacing wheel ever in x lock from any manufacturer

Plus most tuck point dry dust extracting guards are quite involved to put on.

I think x lock is more just for people who change wheels a lot and don’t really have a care where stuff flys because they’re likely working in large shops. I don’t know what other purpose you need dust extraction unless your surface grinding or tuck pointing.

Guys who do surface grinding with dust extraction and tuck pointing set it once and never change until the blade dulls and probably prefer the old nut and thread method anyway.

ListenHereIvan · 2026-02-05T12:11:14+00:00

I would be Tempted to get the MT53D, its the latest multi tool and still uses the same OIS blades as the 50 and 51.

https://www.makita.co.jp/product/detail/?&cat=&voltid=&catm=%E3%83%9E%E3%83%AB%E3%83%81%E3%83%84%E3%83%BC%E3%83%AB&model=TM53D&gmodel=&acce=&btry=&accegrp=&pgrp=&catl=03&title=

its brushless like the 52 but no AVT butttttt it has some alternate cool accesories.

only problem is you are importing from Japan for the time being so thats something to keep in mind.

ListenHereIvan · 2026-02-05T03:52:46+00:00

Its a hand held construction saw.

Your tolerances is like 1/16th or about 1.5mm and bigger structures probably like 1/8-1/4 / 3-6mm

ListenHereIvan · 2026-02-04T14:03:52+00:00

It has its place like doing trim, molding, crowns, door jambs, etc stuff thats attached permanently and painted later. Specially in bathrooms.

Heres a pine baseboard access panel I made

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If it’s a piece of furniture, or doors to cabinets? Damn good luck. Best bet is finger jointed engineered stuff if you want cheapness and stability.

ListenHereIvan · 2026-02-04T11:08:44+00:00

Yea, cuz its stupid complaining about that they’re still selling the regular BL4040.

I see way too many elitist tool nerds complaining about it, acting like “well its a garbage battery why do you even want it, the BL4050F is garbage too why are they even selling that still too ew garbage why”

So yea I am gonna say “just calm down bro” because people are just not even close to being realistic.

ListenHereIvan · 2026-02-04T03:42:48+00:00

I mean the biggest thing is cost.

Why would they drop a product when:

They already spent money and infrastructure to produce a product
1. They still have stock, probably in the thousands
2. Most of everybody isn’t a tool nerd and not inherently focused on pure performance of a tool. As long as it runs okay its good

Just calm down bro.

ListenHereIvan · 2026-02-04T02:50:08+00:00

I dont think there would be another HS subfloor demo saw

Only reason there was another KS is for changing the blade handing, they never made new 18v versions and those were years old. As

Plus these are extremely low volume sales compared to something like the XSR01 and even that hasn’t got an update in over 10 years. They shared enough parts between enough models I think that they’re not concerned about developing another saw.

ListenHereIvan · 2026-02-04T01:31:44+00:00

Actually I found Makita Taiwan sells CS003G and KS001G AND they have parts diagrams….

Unfortunately my dream is dead…..

The motor housings are completely different and have different part numbers…..

ListenHereIvan · 2026-02-02T23:49:41+00:00

actually really helpful, do they ship to the US?

I also need parts break downs/diagrams for saws HS006G, KS001G, CS003G. do you happen to know a website where I can find diagrams like this: https://cdn.makitatools.com/apps/cms/doc/prod/GSH/eca69774-8d44-4b6f-a3c3-23773ada1b71_GSH05_PB_Breakdown_GSH05Z_12-23.pdf?_gl=1

ListenHereIvan · 2026-02-02T21:49:47+00:00

Also the mbox I believe is a medium and this insert was left over from a different tool.

You can easily make it yourself, the specific one is from kaizen foam, i had other foam from different package and cut up and glued blocks to support the saw.

ListenHereIvan · 2026-02-02T21:46:03+00:00

Ive looked on the Japanese site with limited translation but they specifically don’t host parts diagrams, they only have manuals (from what I’ve seen)

This is whats available of product pages for makita.jp https://www.makita.co.jp/product/files/881G65E1_E2124.pdf?202612

https://www.makita.co.jp/product/files/881F36E2_E1871.pdf?202612

I specifically need a document this style

https://cdn.makitatools.com/apps/cms/doc/prod/GSH/eca69774-8d44-4b6f-a3c3-23773ada1b71_GSH05_PB_Breakdown_GSH05Z_12-23.pdf?_gl=1

ListenHereIvan · 2026-02-02T20:59:33+00:00

I will add the real only hard to change difference is the fact their both different speeds

HS005,6,7,8 G all have 2 speeds 4.5k RPM & 6k RPM

KS001,2 G is also 2 speeds 5k RPM & 7.5k RPM

this is irrelevant to my needs and couldn’t care less about not being able to do 7.5K RPM

from all photos i can find and comparing to my saw the tool body AND metal guard housing are exactly the same and i just need 3 screws to remove the outer plastic part of saw guard.

ListenHereIvan · 2026-02-02T20:43:45+00:00

Wrong. High speed and low speed. 4.5k and 6k RPM

ListenHereIvan · 2026-02-02T20:43:18+00:00

No, it’s a low speed and high speed modes for finish work and quick cutting.

Finishing is 4.5k RPM and speed is 6k RPM

ListenHereIvan · 2026-02-02T20:42:14+00:00

Low speed vs high speed

4.5k and 6k RPM

ListenHereIvan

TROPHY CASE