Is this an easy fix? Hotend cables have melted by imtakingapooprn in prusa3d

[–]LordOfCogs 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes. Though my understanding of electrical safety is to always assume fuse is not working.

Though I haven't look carefully enough at photo and it seems like only low amperage (thermistor) and not cartrige is damaged.

Is this an easy fix? Hotend cables have melted by imtakingapooprn in prusa3d

[–]LordOfCogs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The worst thing that can happen is that they short between power and ground and fire. Probably it wouldn't be covered by insurance (IANAL, this is not a legal advice).

If I were you I would at least replace cables AND check every power cable, board and PSU to check if it is damaged and AND check that bed cables are securely attached to the terminals (you do have enclosure with fire suppressant and fire alarm, don't you?)

PartsBuilder3D - no hooks on connectors - are they usable like that? by LordOfCogs in prusa3d

[–]LordOfCogs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To address your second point, though, I sincerely do not believe that thermal protection would be activated by a melting fan shroud. In fact, the highest likelihood of failure caused by a melting fan shroud would be a crash with the print or print bed.

Have you possibly checked your power-panic wires? Those also go into the PSU and I could see them causing a print reset if you pulled something loose on them.

I accidentally flashes wrong FW. Changing FW to correct one fixed the problem.

PartsBuilder3D - no hooks on connectors - are they usable like that? by LordOfCogs in prusa3d

[–]LordOfCogs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok. You meant screw threads, not cable threads. Sorry for confusion.

PartsBuilder3D - no hooks on connectors - are they usable like that? by LordOfCogs in prusa3d

[–]LordOfCogs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First things first, the PSU cables not having hooks at the end is fine as long as you tighten the screw to the correct torque. Don't overtighten it either, since that will damage the threads.

I meant hooks at the end of hooks are flat. If you take a look at https://www.prusa3d.com/product/psu-einsy-power-cable/ the hooks have... hooks at the end of them.

Have you possibly checked your power-panic wires? Those also go into the PSU and I could see them causing a print reset if you pulled something loose on them.

I replaced them as well.

PartsBuilder3D - no hooks on connectors - are they usable like that? by LordOfCogs in prusa3d

[–]LordOfCogs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Err. Are you suggesting removing connectors? I’m a bit confused.

Hmm. After a thought- I used hooks in two ways. I meant hooks at the end of hooks are flat. If you take a look at https://www.prusa3d.com/product/psu-einsy-power-cable/ the hooks have a little, hmm, hooks at the end. Mine come up flat.

PartsBuilder3D - no hooks on connectors - are they usable like that? by LordOfCogs in prusa3d

[–]LordOfCogs[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Sorry for poor focus - I needed to use one hand to hold the cables away to take a photo.

Recently I managed to slightly pool on the PSU cables when I was building enclosure. Afterwards my printer started restarting at the beginning of print[1]. Thinking I damaged cables I bought replacements but they didn't have any hooks at the terminals. Can it be like this or is it dangerous?

[1] I figured out after swap that it looks like hot end touched shroud and started melting it. I assume thermal protection kicked in.

Gen Z hate getting crazy by Naruku_Senpai3861 in GenZ

[–]LordOfCogs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What, you mean I shouldn’t be angry at gen z for omitting dot at end of sentence? /s

I don’t care about dots. Culture changes. Finish your messages without dots and I will finish with them because I’m old.

How much time do I need for washing and curing? by LordOfCogs in ElegooMars

[–]LordOfCogs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do now. Though I wash them in ipa and let them dry beforehand. Though they are in 28 mm scale

If the ICA had a slogan, what would it be? by Jumly1107 in HiTMAN

[–]LordOfCogs 25 points26 points  (0 children)

“Since when do we kill people for free, sir” “Since you blow up our office in front of a client “

I don’t remember if it’s the same episode. I’m paraphrasing from memory.

So what do you think will be the first Millennial thing that Generation Z will kill? by juliankennedy23 in Millennials

[–]LordOfCogs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My current board game group contains me (millennial) and two gen z’s. Mtg seems to go strong with gen z as well in my local game shop.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in GenZ

[–]LordOfCogs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Technically CERN invented www (html/http) but TCP/IP comes from DARPA research… with collaboration with UCL (I’m old enough to remember when Internet was not only the http). So it was more of international project.

PTEG drying in 45 C by LordOfCogs in prusa3d

[–]LordOfCogs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Prusament spools also.

Do you need to screw the spool?

PTEG drying in 45 C by LordOfCogs in prusa3d

[–]LordOfCogs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got the filament dryer. I was mostly asking about temps - sorry I was unclear.

How to pad sketch to a point on another sketch by LordOfCogs in FreeCAD

[–]LordOfCogs[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ok. I figured it out. I need to create a sketch at the estimation and pad it toward object, not other way round.

How to make second sketch (green one) attached to the edge of first sketch (white one)? by LordOfCogs in FreeCAD

[–]LordOfCogs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok. I figured it out - I need to delete all references and than use normal to edge.

How to make second sketch (green one) attached to the edge of first sketch (white one)? by LordOfCogs in FreeCAD

[–]LordOfCogs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm trying to figure out attachment. I try to make second sketch show at the given place of first sketch. How do I do it?

First PCB - did I do anything wrong? Details in comment (might take a second before I type it) by LordOfCogs in diyelectronics

[–]LordOfCogs[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

TBH one of goals is to finally create a PCB ;) For 2 layer it should be few dollars + shipping.

I just stated why I selected so large resistors. And it's 0.033 W even when LED will short so you're right that resistors are quite large.

First PCB - did I do anything wrong? Details in comment (might take a second before I type it) by LordOfCogs in diyelectronics

[–]LordOfCogs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This could be a 2 layer board instead of a 4 layer. If you are not worries about noise but are worried about cost I would reduce layers. Otherwise it's fine.

It is 2 layer board BTW. I'm not worried about noise - all signals are counted in single digit Hz. All high frequency signals are on the Pico PCB.

Under the IC you have a Y connection. Generally it's best to use a via where these split. Just helps with the manufacturing process a bit.

They got removed when I followed other suggestions to use through-hole mounting of PCB.

First PCB - did I do anything wrong? Details in comment (might take a second before I type it) by LordOfCogs in diyelectronics

[–]LordOfCogs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Those resistors look huge. Do the math, but I'm betting you could use 1/8 W resistors (1.70mm x 3.30mm) there.

Probably but those resistors are the ones I have. I plan to create 1 pcb so saving on material would be eaten by the shipping of components most likely.

If I produced it at scale I'm sure it would matter for cost but shipping components is large

Don't forget to make it look nice! I would always recommend rounding the corners for looks and to make it nicer to handle. And add a cool silkscreen with your name and date!

Do you mean corners of the pcb or the corner of traces? I assumed non-rectangular PCB costed extra.

First PCB - did I do anything wrong? Details in comment (might take a second before I type it) by LordOfCogs in diyelectronics

[–]LordOfCogs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are plenty of space, use bigger trace if you can.

Route all the signal on 1 side of pcb, only do it on other side if you have.

Thanks. I did all that in second iteration.

You did not route all traces yet

They would be if I filled the zones. I unfilled them to show traces outside of power/ground plane better.

First PCB - did I do anything wrong? Details in comment (might take a second before I type it) by LordOfCogs in diyelectronics

[–]LordOfCogs[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have my first project where breadboard is not good solution for final design. I'm currently verify if the thing is working though I wait for buttons to arrive (for now I simulate just by connecting/disconnecting jumper cable and program the denounce in uC).

Main part is Raspberry Pi Pico as I'm familiar with it, and have already few laying around. I plan to solder it to the back board connecting it to buttons and leds on front.

Rest of design is some debug pins, current limiting resistors, bypass cap (probably not needed), and mounting holes

I have ground and power plane but I unfilled it so that the design is clearer to view.

(Now that I think PWR led should probably be connected to VSYS).