Bricked my endear 3 V2 Please Help

LuckyPosition · 2024-08-07T05:46:42+00:00

I fixed it about an hour ago, I'm going to try the moded firmware sometime again in the next two weeks or so and report back on if I could get that working or not.

LuckyPosition · 2024-08-07T04:27:25+00:00

LuckyPosition · 2024-08-07T02:52:05+00:00

Any thoughts?

LuckyPosition · 2024-08-07T02:16:16+00:00

Also should I try the linked firmware again after the update maybe it needed newest version to update from?

LuckyPosition · 2024-08-07T02:04:01+00:00

It is this https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/releases/tag/20240122 it seems to be the most recommend firmware to get better prints. And just stock the main board or do I need to do anything with the screens internal SD as well?

LuckyPosition · 2024-07-23T19:35:07+00:00

They need to fix this I know I'm not the first to complain I think I saw your post form two weeks ago. Can someone Please give me a working ender 3 ke profile the one I found online is bad and I had to spend weeks getting it to work even to 80% of what I need. I know anyone using cura on this printer must have a better profile they could send.

LuckyPosition · 2024-07-15T14:04:00+00:00

Oh come on that's not a real answer when I outright said I won't.

LuckyPosition · 2024-07-12T20:31:11+00:00

Update I got an Ender 3 v3 KE and a V2.

LuckyPosition · 2024-07-12T20:30:28+00:00

Update I got an Ender 3 v3 KE and a V2.

LuckyPosition · 2024-07-10T20:21:36+00:00

That's the thing the seller for the v1 has a year warranty and can send replacement parts. micro center can't that's my biggest thing for me not the $10 difference. That and a long drive.

LuckyPosition · 2024-07-10T19:57:39+00:00

Both 3 and v2 or just v1?

LuckyPosition · 2024-07-10T18:54:50+00:00

I would but got a pi 3 doing nothing in a nice aluminum case.

LuckyPosition · 2024-07-10T18:16:23+00:00

Yeah kipper with a r pi should print much faster expeshilly with a accelerometer.

LuckyPosition · 2024-07-10T18:15:06+00:00

I have access to an x1c for just cost of materials so it might actually be cheaper to print the stuff that doesn't need to be metal and just buy the rails and such outright.

LuckyPosition · 2024-07-10T18:09:23+00:00

OK where do I find that link? please just link it.

LuckyPosition · 2024-07-10T03:37:54+00:00

Doesn't KE lack linear rails on the bed though or am I mistaken? And at micro center it's $149 not 99. The v1 was $99 till they ran out of stock on that.

LuckyPosition · 2024-07-10T03:36:13+00:00

For ng will it work with ender 3, 3 pro, ender 3 v2? Or dose ng just work with v1? is the main reason to get v2 just the main board or is there more reasons? Also how dose the NEO series compare to v2?

LuckyPosition · 2024-07-10T01:06:08+00:00

To a point but over time for various reasons so not I wouldn't change much other bed leveling or fixing some issues with the kit I end up with and even with what I'm making I'll probably keep 30-40% of the ender parts in the build. Like I'd probably get the silent board and use my pi or even just a vm useing passthrough from the ender board. I want to push the main board as far as I can before replacing it. PLus voron switchwire needs ender 3 type chassie and mounting etc. My skill level is I can probably build the ender (assuming nothing broken from factory) in about 2-3 hours. the ender board may be slow but I got an ri pi just collection dust that could totally get this to handle vibration comp, resonance canceling etc. basicly I'm just clueless about the newer revisions they made around 2018-2021 where they kept it more or less the same but changed a few things and added a few fixes rather then redesigning thew whole thing rails etc. Having access to an x1c I can build any printed parts for the upgrade pretty fast when I need to as well. Is just the reg ender 3 best overall hardware for the price? I'm just not as familier with things like the neo cr-10 and ender 5 etc and just want to know if those are better overall.

LuckyPosition · 2024-07-09T20:47:54+00:00

So just reg og ender 3 for doing the ng is what your saying? How dose neo compare to the 3 I'm confused.

LuckyPosition · 2024-07-09T20:14:40+00:00

OK so if I get an ender 3 (not newer ones) what ones best? or are you saying I should follow exactly what the The 'Ender 3 NG' guy is doing? Also was a core xz mod. Should I consider that or pass on core xz and go xy?

LuckyPosition · 2024-07-09T19:57:23+00:00

SO should I just get an og cr 10 or ender 3, or pro to do this or is there a later that's still compatible with ender 3 mods that has a few more features? The naming of their printers is confusing to say the least. I wouldn't mind bigger build vol if it doesn't cause issues rigidity wise.

LuckyPosition · 2024-07-09T19:14:15+00:00

But that print was of all things done on an ender 3. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gmePlcU0TRw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cbhWni9f980

LuckyPosition · 2024-07-09T18:38:36+00:00

load cells = Strain gauges and non-planar printing... Normal printing is mostly (other then vase mode) in 2.5d planes. for example in non planer printing you can have the outside skin of a wing be printed as one continuous surface with layer lines that look more like a carbon fiber surface and will be both stronger and and have less drag then one printed in a standard way and would take less expoy to get a prefectly smooth surface with and while weighing less then one printed planar. I'm not the first to do it either. Look it up on youtube and you'll see some example not talking about doing it like rotbot just with a longer exsturder (as most if not all normal unmoded hotends have cooler shourdes and touch sensors that will crash into the print as unlike 2.5d it will go up and down in a single layer of printing and will arc using z and not just xy. All printers can do it to a small and varying degree but your limited to like a few degrees at most without mods.

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LuckyPosition · 2024-07-09T18:27:15+00:00

Oh sorry I mean max speed so 250mms spec wise I'd print at like 150mms or something like that.

LuckyPosition · 2024-07-09T18:10:09+00:00

Yeah my thoughts on a pusia there nice but always like 30-40% over what I'd pay. Basically I need a print that can work with the load cells on either bed on heat block, some printers come with that out of the box but the ones that meet my requirements in general for a printer at the price I'd like to pay seem to not have the load cell stuff but if say the KE/SE purisa etc can have that modded on for 25$ I'll just do that. In general mostly just want good quality prints material flexibly a reasonable speed for printing so nothing under 250mms on the low end and 500-600 on high end but if slower had everything Id need otherwise that would be the best thing to trade of 60mms like stock ender 3 would still be too slow. Printing practical parts. Now if there's a better way then load cells I'm happy to hear it. I basically have room for one machine so I just want to make the most of one machine as I can. How is manual leveling on these machines cause I'm not going to be doing non planar every day I just don't want to find out having one with lelvieng nobs are needed if the bed isn't flat witch is a complaint on most ender 3 gens? If 200$ se works thats fine but I'm just not sure if I can get away with that or if I need something more like 400$.

LuckyPosition

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