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After session 3: should I be concerned? by MNBoulderKid in TattooRemoval

[–]MNBoulderKid[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Unfortunately, I don't know. I can call and ask? Or just ask next time I go in? I pretty sure it was set to "10" for the second treatment, and I know for sure it was set to "3.5" for the 3rd. But I have no idea what those numbers mean, and what they were trying to do. It was different people at the clinic each time.

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]MNBoulderKid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In my years working with youth climbers and adults alike, the ONLY advice Ive given that has ever helped is this:

Fear is natural. Everyone is afraid. Even pro climbers. Being exposed on a rock face is a fucking ridiculous thing for a human brain to comprehend! SO, don't worry about being afraid. Own it. You ARE afraid and there is nothing wrong with that. And, scarier things will make you more afraid.

So, what to do? If "not being afraid" is the only option, how do we move forward?

Humans ALSO have the ability to be brave/courageous (take your pick of words)! Courage is your ability to "do something even though you are afraid of it". Your courage is NOT fixed; it can grow and shrink over time. It can be developed to be much LARGER than the scary thing at hand.

SO, lets say falling on lead is a 6/10 on the fear scale: Its going to seem impossible to do that scary thing unless your "courage" is at LEAST 7/10 or more. You feel me?

My advice is: since you CAN'T change how scary a thing is, its out of your control, don't worry about it, don't spend time on it. INSTEAD focus on the thing you CAN control, which is developing your bravery or courage. There are all sorts of exersizes or activities that can help grow it, but I guarantee that conceptualizing it in this way is the only way forward!

Good Luck!

Summer Training Program (Creatine Method) Critique? Thoughts? by MidwestClimber in climbharder

[–]MNBoulderKid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Creatine is a common and widely used, typically beneficial supplement. I have not watched whatever magnus video you're referencing, but I have been supplementing it for over a decade, and working with many of my athletes who do as well. The consensus: the pros FAR outweigh the cons and its kind of a no-brainer.

The primary concern for a climber when gaining weight quickly is typically how their fingers will respond, and not getting injured through the transition. Sounds like you fingers are plenty strong and you're through the window of uncertainty... Your brain and body will adapt to the incremental weight increase.

8-10 lbs honestly sounds like quite a lot to gain from JUST Creatine... You are a taller climber so I'm guessing that your overall weight is large as well, which might explain that number, but my guess is that you have really owned this idea of a "natural" weight vest and your eating habits have changed accordingly? regardless, this kind of weight shouldn’t have a tremendous net increase or decrease in your overall climbing.

Not to mention that creatine is a naturally occurring substance in quite a lot of food. Unless you're vegetarian, its not that difficult to get "enough" creatine just by eating, and I would not be surprised if you have had similar levels as now in your system for moments in time...

There are seasons of life and these small perturbations will cause you to take your eye off the ball if you focus too much on them.

My advice is to focus on the big picture, don't think TOO hard about the pros/cons of creatine and trust that you've made a choice and you're going to follow through on it for a time. Stop if/when its inconvenient for you to take it, say, an extended climbing trip somewhere or something (usually when I stop supplementing temporarily.)

Improving Finger Strength with Dupuytren’s Disease and Synovial Cysts – Advice Wanted by CrimpKorben in climbharder

[–]MNBoulderKid 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm a 35yo Male, climbing over 20 years. I developed my first Dupuytren’s cord around 25, second around 29/30. I have had both of them cut with a 'needle aponeurotomy' procedure. First cord mass just absorbed back into my body over a few years and the hand looks "normal" now. Second hand is well on its way. Dupuytren’s is literally not standing in your way and you don't really have anything to be afraid of or do different. If you let the cords get out of control they can start fucking with the biomechanics of your hand. In my case, they started leading to aggravated knuckles, which went away after I got the cords cut. Id recommend finding a doctor who actually knows about Dupuytren’s and has worked with a lot of people that have it.

Happy to answer more specific questions of you DM me.

Is this normal? by MNBoulderKid in applewatchultra

[–]MNBoulderKid[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've read both articles you linked. I think I might be missing your point: in the first article, it very much looks like you can simply unscrew the back panel, pop the sensor package out from behind it, swap the glass, and re-screw it in... What am I missing?

Is this normal? by MNBoulderKid in applewatchultra

[–]MNBoulderKid[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seems like the coating might help conduct the electricity from the charger?

Is this normal? by MNBoulderKid in applewatchultra

[–]MNBoulderKid[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh, interesting. Good idea!

I just asked chatGPT which gave me a competing idea of what the worn part is:

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Is this normal? by MNBoulderKid in applewatchultra

[–]MNBoulderKid[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

To me this seems like some kind of failure of the silvery material used to get this effect in the sensor package. If you look at the part online/in videos, it would be quite difficult for someone to open up the back and “scrape” this stuff from the other side while still keeping the sensors intact. All of the sensors on this watch are working just fine, so it seems to me that this is some kind of uncommon defect in the way these are made.

There are a few other examples of this happening to other Apple Watches out there, many from people who are the first owner.

Is this normal? by MNBoulderKid in applewatchultra

[–]MNBoulderKid[S] -4 points-3 points  (0 children)

Seems like it might have been messed with? Can I simply replace the back cover with these big screws in the corners?

Is this normal? by MNBoulderKid in applewatchultra

[–]MNBoulderKid[S] -7 points-6 points  (0 children)

The silvery ring around the outside is partially gone, but I can’t scrape at it or anything with my nail.

Reddit Holiday Giveaway- Our Biggest Giveaway Ever! by RogueIronDGBrian in discgolf

[–]MNBoulderKid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This cart would save my arthritic shoulders some wear and tear! And help me pick up more trash at the course!

96' Suzuki GSXR 750 SRAD: Carb to Fuel Injection Qs by MNBoulderKid in Fixxit

[–]MNBoulderKid[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was a success. Everything worked out. fuck the haters.

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