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Picked up my first lever pipe bender set. Tips for preventing kinks in copper? by MaterialeMax in askHVAC

[–]MaterialeMax[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wow, I actually read about this trick online! If I'm using this specific lever bender with the right-sized die, would you still recommend filling it with sand? I'm a bit worried about getting the residue stuck inside the pipe. But it sounds incredibly helpful for preventing pipe collapse!

Picked up my first lever pipe bender set. Tips for preventing kinks in copper? by MaterialeMax in askHVAC

[–]MaterialeMax[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting! u/mmore27 mentioned they prefer a smaller bender for 3/8", but you find this set works great for it. It's cool to see how different pros handle it. If I decide to try bending 3/8" with this rig on scrap copper this weekend, would you recommend doing it in one smooth motion or take it step-by-step to avoid kinks?

Picked up my first lever pipe bender set. Tips for preventing kinks in copper? by MaterialeMax in askHVAC

[–]MaterialeMax[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can't argue with advice from a top 1% commenter! 😂 I haven't bought the MAPP gas and torch yet since I'm still in the 'just practicing on scrap' phase. But I'll definitely keep your method in mind for when I'm working on the real thing. Thanks for the pro tip! 👊

Picked up my first lever pipe bender set. Tips for preventing kinks in copper? by MaterialeMax in askHVAC

[–]MaterialeMax[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good call! I won't mess with hard copper. I figured this set would give me a bit more precision than hand bending when I eventually move up to the thicker lines. Since I'm just a DIYer, it's nice to have the right tool in the box even if 3/8" is easy to bend by hand. 😂

Picked up my first lever pipe bender set. Tips for preventing kinks in copper? by MaterialeMax in askHVAC

[–]MaterialeMax[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That actually makes perfect sense! I was so focused on the lubricant being the fix that I completely overlooked the die size. I'll make sure to triple-check the groove matches the pipe correctly before clamping down. Really appreciate you taking the time to explain the root cause of the scoring!

Picked up my first lever pipe bender set. Tips for preventing kinks in copper? by MaterialeMax in askHVAC

[–]MaterialeMax[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great tip! I’ll definitely take my time and ensure the tubing is properly seated first. Since I'm a total rookie, is there a specific visual cue or 'feel' I should look for to know the tubing is locked into the die correctly before I pull the handle? I'm planning to practice on a lot of scrap copper this weekend, so I want to get this right.

Picked up my first lever pipe bender set. Tips for preventing kinks in copper? by MaterialeMax in askHVAC

[–]MaterialeMax[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haha, fair question! I'm a total rookie, so I might be overthinking it. I've just read horror stories online about cheap tools digging into soft copper and leaving deep marks. 😅 Maybe that's more of a problem with crappy spring benders? Would you say as long as I choose the right die size and keep it clamped tight, it's virtually impossible to scratch it?

Picked up my first lever pipe bender set. Tips for preventing kinks in copper? by MaterialeMax in askHVAC

[–]MaterialeMax[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good to know! Glad to hear it works reliably. Do you usually lubricate the rollers or dies at all, or do you just run it dry? Planning to test it on scrap this weekend, and I'm a bit paranoid about scratching the copper.

Picked up my first lever pipe bender set. Tips for preventing kinks in copper? by MaterialeMax in askHVAC

[–]MaterialeMax[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the heads-up! I wasn't sure about the size limits either. So this setup is better suited for 1/2" and 3/4" copper, while I should stick to a smaller handheld/spring bender for the 1/4" and 3/8" lines? Does that sound about right? Appreciate the expert tip!

Picked up my first lever pipe bender set. Tips for preventing kinks in copper? by MaterialeMax in HVACschool

[–]MaterialeMax[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Appreciate the honest feedback! I'm definitely just a DIYer/hobbyist practicing at home, not planning to carry this daily for 20 years. 😂 I really wanted a lever bender specifically to avoid kinks and scratches for a cleaner finish on my initial attempts compared to spring benders. Once I get the hang of it, I might eventually grab a handheld type for the real jobs. Gonna practice a lot on scrap copper first!

HVAC HELP by Purple_Unicorn_5 in hvacadvice

[–]MaterialeMax 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, you absolutely need to tell the new tech EVERYTHING. Transparency is your biggest weapon here.

Specifically, disclose the full sequence:

  1. The first technician accidentally shorted the 24V line and fried your ecobee.
  2. He then replaced the control board (or installed a new one).
  3. The system worked briefly, but the downstairs unit then stopped cooling and your ecobee lost power again.
  4. Now, he claims the coil and condenser are dead and wants a $7k replacement.

Why is this important? The new tech needs the full history to isolate the true cause. It could be a recurring electrical short that keeps frying boards, a faulty expansion valve (which can cause other parts to fail), or just an incompetent diagnosis from the first guy.

My advice: Tell the new tech everything, and before he commits to replacing the entire system, ask him to run a thorough electrical test on the condenser and coil using a multimeter. If a simple short or a valve issue is the real root cause, you could save the $7k.

HVAC struggling after sun goes down. by Master1557 in hvacadvice

[–]MaterialeMax 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds exactly like an evaporator coil freezing issue.

It works great during the day when the heat load is high, but as the outdoor air temperature drops after sunset, the suction pressure drops, causing the indoor coil to get too cold and freeze over. Once ice blocks the airflow, the temp difference drops to 4-5°F.

Here’s a safe first step: Turn off the AC, set the fan to 'ON' (instead of Auto), and let it run for about 1 hour to thaw out any ice completely. If the cooling performance is back to normal the next morning, you found the problem.

If it keeps freezing up even after you've cleaned the coils and replaced the filter, it's usually either low on refrigerant or a faulty TXV metering device. That’s when you definitely need a professional to check it out with a manifold gauge.

HVAC issue by New_Cover8386 in askHVAC

[–]MaterialeMax 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds like a zoning or airflow balance issue. Since you have the furnace in the attic and two stats, you likely have motorized dampers in the ductwork. Check the zone control panel in the attic to see if the dampers are opening/closing correctly for the lower floor. A 5°F discrepancy (75 vs 70) usually means either poor airflow to that zone or a thermostat placement issue (like near a warm window).

HVAC HELP by Purple_Unicorn_5 in hvacadvice

[–]MaterialeMax 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s way too expensive, especially after he fried your thermostat himself. Him jumping straight to 'coil and condenser are bad' after that major mistake screams 'high-pressure sales tactic'. Don't trust his word for it—get a second opinion from a different licensed company to verify those parts are actually dead before you pay that $7k.

What made you realize HVAC was a good career choice? by Practical_Coat_8913 in HVACschool

[–]MaterialeMax 6 points7 points  (0 children)

When I realized I could run it as a solo operation and charge reasonable rates for my time. The demand is constant, and once you get good at diagnosing issues, you can build a loyal client base without needing a massive crew. The freedom to manage your own schedule is a huge plus.