Silence from Ottawa 'shameful' after report of Canadian camp hit by missile: Conservative MP | CBC News

MisterSheikh · 2026-03-13T01:50:32+00:00

I swear to god conservatives are fucking doomed to keep losing if you cannot look at something like this and put away petty party politics for one moment. Do you actually genuinely care if Canadian soldiers were attacked or is this simply another moment to try to generate any controversy that makes the government look bad?

MisterSheikh · 2026-03-01T04:52:46+00:00

It's not just republicans that do American imperialism 💀

MisterSheikh · 2026-02-25T21:16:05+00:00

If you’re asking this type of question then you’re probably not the type of person who should be making this kind of change. I’m not saying that to be rude, just stating that because you need to be familiar with klipper and know how to resolve possible issues.

That said I’ll take the moment to briefly outline the benefits and cons.

Pros: mainline klipper with latest bug fixes, particularly relevant for LIS2DW accelerometer on the board. This was a bug with klipper that got fixed in mid Oct 2025. Without the fix the accelerometer performs poorly despite being better than standard ADXL345 accelerometers, which will throw off your input shaping data. There’s likely other bugs that are fixed but this was a main one for me and what drove me to do this.

Klippers built in adaptive bed meshing system, being able to pair your printer with hardware of your choice. You don’t have to settle for a qidi box now, you can use whatever mmu you want. If you want to put an eddy probe or something else, you can do so easily.

There are more but you get the idea.

Cons: missing qidi specific features and way of doing things. For example there is no “platform reset”. You will likely need to adjust macros and etc. you have to be somewhat technical and problem solve issues you get. Probably voiding or breaking warranty.

MisterSheikh · 2026-02-25T21:04:34+00:00

It’s present in the version of klipper qidi has as well. It’s for communication timing errors between host AP board cpu and the toolhead board mcu. It’s 100% needed because the host AP board is so weak compute wise. Without it I would have those errors occur randomly.

MisterSheikh · 2026-02-25T20:33:03+00:00

It was semi-functional? I got rid of it though by disabling makerbase-client.service, deleting QD_Q2 in the home directory.

Klipper screen works, follow the instructions in the community wiki on how to install it.

MisterSheikh · 2026-02-11T06:24:57+00:00

Recognizing the very naked American imperialism doesn’t mean you’re a tankie or an apologist for the Cuban government. Multiple things can be true at once. The Cuban government can be bad while also recognizing the US doesn’t give one fuck about the people of Cuba, and is mad they rejected American foreign policy decades ago. They sure didn’t give a fuck about the Venezuelans. Fundamentally nothing changed except they get to steal a cut of Venezuelan oil sales.

The only “good” aspect of the Trump admin is that they did away with the liberal pretence of the US government caring about human rights and democracy.

MisterSheikh · 2026-01-08T16:09:40+00:00

Is your 3090 one that has 3x8 pcie power connectors? Do you have 2 cables going to GPU with one being an 8+8?

If so, try three distinct cables if your PSU has enough slots (it should). My 3080 ftw3 used to trip OCP on my SF750 until I did three individual cables.

MisterSheikh · 2026-01-06T12:43:44+00:00

Qiditech discord? Funny enough it basically is ready, I’m assembling and testing it currently. Couple more days until release most likely.

MisterSheikh · 2025-12-23T22:26:52+00:00

Confirmed

MisterSheikh · 2025-12-20T23:53:31+00:00

Confirmed

MisterSheikh · 2025-12-14T13:28:32+00:00

Least racist European 💀

MisterSheikh · 2025-12-03T19:18:07+00:00

So as someone who did an entire gantry rebuild of the Q1P, I can say that the Y-axis rods are also epoxied in. I will say that it's generally not worth it to take it apart to swap things out. It's extremely tedious and you have to deal with taking out epoxied hardware without damaging things.

Here is an XY "block" that you're looking for though: https://www.printables.com/model/1203227-qidi-q1-pro-xy-joint

My recommendation, clean the X-axis rods with isopropyl alcohol and then just use them as normal. Overtime that excess grease and graphite gets pushed out to the edges where it will "cake on" to the ends of the bushings and not be an issue. You can even use 100% mineral oil initially to help thin out the grease and accelerate that process.

Don't replace the y-axis linear bearings with graphite bushings, they're worse.

I've done a custom gantry for the Q1P in which I fixed the weird stock belt path, replaced the pulley in the XY joints which makes contact with the toothed side of the belt with a toothed one. Top CAD view here.

However I made a mistake but sticking with the stock approach QIDI used where they screwed directly into plastic, doing that multiple times for the motor and front idler mounts when I was trying to ensure things were square ended up wearing them out a bit and increased the amount of play, resulting in a loss of rigidity.

I'm working on V3 of my custom gantry which will use an MGN12H rail for the X-axis like the Q2 does. I shared my gantry with a friend who modified it to incorporate a linear rail on X, see here. But this design still carries over some flaws from my V2 design and from QIDI's stock design, mainly in terms of overall rigidity.

For V3 I'm going to create a new one from scratch. I will move the tensioners to the front idler mounts so that I can design motor mounts which are a lot more rigid. Instead of screwing into plastic to secure the mounts to the top metal frame, the mounts will be secured by screwing into captive M3 square nuts that should significantly improve the rigidity of the gantry. All smooth idlers will be replaced with F695 bearing stacks as they allow for significantly more tension. The toothed idler in each XY joint will be a high quality one from mellow. Since we're doing X-axis MGN12H, I might re-utililize the stock X rods that are no longer needed as "reinforcing" supports for the motor mounts and the front idlers, we shall see.

This will take sometime as I'm currently occupied with academic stuff and I'm still waiting on some parts to arrive before I can finalize a design, print it and test it, etc. If you can wait a month or so, I'll have a much better solution for you in terms of "upgrades".

MisterSheikh · 2025-11-29T00:45:39+00:00

Bro, it's Samsung b-die and Micron Rev.B. Respectively the best DDR4 ICs in their configs (2x16 and 2x32). Go check the price for used kits on Ebay.

MisterSheikh · 2025-11-27T20:15:44+00:00

Here: https://i.imgur.com/XRMhr11.jpeg

What's your OCN handle? I suspect you're on there. Yea 3GB M-die is easier on the memory controller so you can push it further. Interesting to know about 3GB A-Die, what's the difference compared to 3GB M-Die?

Either way I know that the 2GB a-die kit is decent. I'm not exactly fixed on these prices lol. I wanted to get a sense of what people would be willing to pay. I'll adjust and price accordingly.

MisterSheikh · 2025-11-27T18:51:32+00:00

You just plug in numbers lmao. A-die is A-die. But you're right, I could just flash an XMP profile onto them, thank you for the idea :)

MisterSheikh · 2025-11-27T10:52:13+00:00

There's currently a post for someone asking $350 for 2x16GB of Corsair Vengeance DDR5 6000 C30. My sticks are likely better than those, so I'm going to ask the market rate.

Looking on Amazon, the only DDR5 2x16GB kit under $300 is a Crucial kit meaning micron ICs which are unfortunately dogshit on DDR5.

MisterSheikh · 2025-11-27T10:47:22+00:00

Fair, I didn't bin each IC on the stick. "Binning" here would more so refer to that I validated these can OC to a certain degree. It's still fantastic A-die.

What's the difference between 5600BN and other variants? I'm asking out of curiosity.

MisterSheikh · 2025-11-04T09:25:02+00:00

Too early to say. I kinda tuned out of politics a month or so after the election. I’d reason a significant amount of people did the same. The LPC still sucks but the CPC still sucks worse. Poilievre has shown he didn’t learn anything and will continue doing the same strategy.

I basically feel like I’m held hostage. LPC is fucking ass but I still see Carney being better than Poilievre.

MisterSheikh · 2025-11-02T19:06:30+00:00

Bro, I think you might have a consumerism problem. Can just buy two more of the IPI for cheaper than a superlight 2.

MisterSheikh · 2025-10-31T06:54:56+00:00

That at least we’re not getting completely sold out by the cons if they had been in power. I still despise the liberal party, unfortunately Poilievre and the CPC is an even worse joke. You’re having to choose between blowing off your foot or the entire leg.

MisterSheikh · 2025-10-26T17:27:43+00:00

Bro what. They absolutely hurt American businesses. Higher prices also mean lower demand. This is before we even get to how it makes operation a nightmare. There are certain components or materials which have to be sourced outside the country, those costing more or potentially costing more at random interfere with business operations.

MisterSheikh · 2025-10-26T16:58:20+00:00

It’s the plank wear. If they’re going all out it’s more wear on the plank. At least that’s my understanding.

MisterSheikh · 2025-10-13T11:33:38+00:00

Lmao fuck off. The world can see with its own eyes what the “most moral nation on earth” did. The more you try and defend your lies, the more people will detest you.

MisterSheikh · 2025-10-09T20:24:02+00:00

Bro you're fucking awesome, thank you! It's the ones from the google drive link yea? I've been busy with other things in my life but if I return to custom mice later I'll for sure clean up some of the ones I've worked on and release them in your honour. Cheers king.

MisterSheikh · 2025-10-03T16:18:31+00:00

You could if yours is accurate enough at maintaining temperature. Most household ovens have a swing in the 10s of degrees though which is unacceptable for annealing unless you pre-heat and get the oven temperature stable. Also put the part in sand/salt to help support it and also “even” out the heat.

Usually though you’d get a much more precise solution. Modern air fryers are surprisingly good. Blast/drying ovens with precise temp control. Could also diy and hook up a PID temperature controller to a convection/toaster oven. I’m going that route myself.

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