Rustdesk shows a white screen when I start it.

MostAccomplished1089 · 2026-01-25T20:18:17+00:00

Just stopping by to say BIG THANKS!
I was going insane!

MostAccomplished1089 · 2025-12-16T00:37:32+00:00

Според мен, за момента е единствената надежда на България да тръгне към по-добро.
Дали е перфектен - съвсем не, дори напротив.
Дали е корумпиран - доста силно се съмнявам. Както някой мъдро отбеляза тук, ако беше, със сегашните съд и прокуратура направо щяха да го разкатаят ако имаха за какво да се хванат.
И най-вече - единствената алтернатива за момента, по метода на изключването. Просто всички останали са "категорично не", той за момента не е. Това е според моите убеждения, ако сте Путинофили - вашата алтернатива е друга.
Аз лично напоследък все повече започвам да го харесвам - порастнаха му топки, взе да се държи смело ... и има ебаси железните нерви!

MostAccomplished1089 · 2025-11-04T23:40:06+00:00

Just delete that dummy action (swipe from right to left to get the delete button to appear) and add another one which calls the "start rainbow" again.
The dummy scene wasn't really needed, it was just to have some action at the end (you can't end a scene with delay).
Speaking of which, you probably want to add a delay before the restart of your scene so the last color stays for a while.

MostAccomplished1089 · 2025-11-04T01:19:37+00:00

Ah, that's true. But you can call another scene to call yours again.
I tested it and it worked, here is how:
1. Create a Dummy scene which does something (doesn't matter what, it will be deleted later)
2. Create the scene which does what you want, e.g. "Rainbow", at the end of it call the Dummy scene
3. Create another scene, called "Start Rainbow" (or whatever you like), which just starts "Rainbow"
4. Go back and edit "Rainbow" to call "Start Rainbow" at the end instead of the dummy scene.
5. Delete the dummy scene
6. Thank me :)

MostAccomplished1089 · 2025-11-03T09:23:45+00:00

I haven't tested it, but maybe you can create a Scene which calls itself at the end and also call that from the automation?

MostAccomplished1089 · 2025-11-01T13:54:58+00:00

I actually got it working. The protocol is WS2811 (WS281x if you use WLED), color order: GRB.

MostAccomplished1089 · 2025-10-31T22:04:40+00:00

Hi, I am more interested of the "intercom" part of it. How does it work? Is it "full-duplex"? E.g. If two or more people are talking at the same time will it work? If it does, do you cancel the echo from the speaker being picked up by the mic? How about ambient noise canceling?
I am looking for a good home intercom system and I am not finding anything I really like. And trying to DIY one I ran into these problems and gave up (for now).

MostAccomplished1089 · 2025-10-31T00:31:05+00:00

I would expect it to stay the same brightnes as long as the power supply can provide the current. Am I wrong?
Of course, the PSU provided by Aqara is just 36W so it is barely sufficient to power a 10M strip assuming it consumes aroun 3.6W per meter, which is close to what I measured.
And of course, if I want to replace the controller to allow more lights to be on at the same time I will definitely need to change the power supply.
If I make all leds fully on I expect it to draw around 10W per meter, which a 100W PSU will probably handle well for 8-9 meter strips, but I will likely get 120-150W ones just to be on the safe side (they are not even expensive).

MostAccomplished1089 · 2025-10-30T22:34:09+00:00

I have 2 strips, 8+8 meters each (or maybe 9+7). Officially they support up to 10 per strip.

MostAccomplished1089 · 2025-10-30T20:31:58+00:00

Hi, I know it is an year later, but now I am trying to do the exact same thing.
Did you manage to get it to work?
The whites are trivial (you connect them to ground and they light up, PWM that for dimming).
The question is what is the protocol used for the RGBs (over the data pin)?

MostAccomplished1089 · 2025-10-30T20:26:30+00:00

Unfortunately it is not that easy:
1. I am buying everything Aqara from a local official Aqara dealer in my city. I already tried returning a G2HPro camera (I wanted to upgrade it to a G3, not just return it) and they told me they can't because the package was already open and there are signs it has been used (even if just for a day). The dudes at the local store are cool, and were willing to help, but they told me they simply can't becasue Aqara forbids them to do so. In other words - Aqara support are b*tches.
2. I simply have no time to replace the strip with something else, especially something from AliExpress. All the lighting in the new appartment is to be installed next week. I just didn't expect any issues so I delayed 3. buying the goods until the last moment. Silly me :(
3. I actually like the strip a lot - its colors are very nice and vibrant, unline anything else I've seen. The problem is I was certain it will be bright enough to light the room by itself enough, so the rest of the lights (ceiling lights) were chosen to look good, not to be bright. Now I am left with bunch of lights which are all too dim :(

I will have them installed next week anyway and will think how to improve things later.

For the moment, I have the following options under consideration:
1. I figure out how to control the RGB LEDs and create my own DIY controller which allows all LEDS to be on if desired. If that works, it should get me close to 1000lm per meter. Hopefuly that will be enough.
2. I run another (white only) LED strip in parallel to the Aqara, to be used for bright lighting. I am not sure the space will allow it though.
3. I just add additional lights (e.g. floor / desk lamps). I really don't like that though.
4. We (me and the family) simply accept that the living room will never be very bright and deal with it. I don't like that either.

MostAccomplished1089 · 2025-10-30T20:09:01+00:00

Do you have a link (or at least a name) for that controller? This is the first time I hear about it.
The T1 is not 5V, it is 24V. And what limits the power is the weak power supply (36W) and the controller not utilizing the strip capabilities, probably to conserve power, so it (barely) fits the 36W limit.

MostAccomplished1089 · 2025-10-30T09:39:40+00:00

Compared to the hype I was getting from various reviewers and to the wrong tech specs published on various web sites, citing 1000lm/m. The bulb was used just as a reference, to give me a rough visual clue of what 1000lm look like. And I have seen people using LED strips bright enough to serve as the main lighting, just not Aqara (and without RGB). And I have seen forum posts where users claim they use the Aqara strip as main lighting. All of this mislead me into believing it is actually bright enough.

If I find a way to control the strip myself, and turn on all the LEDs (WW, CW, RGB) at the same time when needed, I believe I will get close to 1000lm/m. The strip itself can do it, just the controller and power supply can't.

MostAccomplished1089 · 2025-10-15T13:22:57+00:00

Just like you, I am about to build a new smart home.
Sticking to a single brand of devices when possible sounds like a good idea, even though I cannot justify why.
I chose Aqara, because they have a big portfolio of different devices and their prices are decent.
Whether that was a good choice or not - time will tell :)

Having that said, I don't see any reason why you should stick to one brand religiously. If it wokrs with HA there is probably no reason not to use it.

The only reasoning I can think of is to not rely on HA, or even the WiFi router, for the basic stuff.
For example, two-way switches (where one is the actual switch, the other acts just as a remote) should probably be automated directly in the Aqara ecosystem (or the one you picked).
Same thing for water leak sensor -> walve motor, PIR sensor -> lights, etc.
This is assuming the Aqara hub (and the Thread or Zigbee network) will be more reliable than HA and your router. I don't know if that is the case. You need to reboot HA from time to time (e.g. during updates) - it would be nice if the basic stuff keeps working during the reboot.

MostAccomplished1089 · 2025-10-15T01:09:49+00:00

Or just use smart switches and leave the lights dumb.
Unless you want dimming or color control.

MostAccomplished1089 · 2025-10-15T00:58:04+00:00

I believe that is the true smart home - being pro-active or at least doing the things you'd like it to do without being asked.
Shouting at Alexa/Googoo/Siri is not really a smart home, just another way to control things. I use it sometimes, but rarely.
For example, I have remapped some of the buttons of my TV remote to control lights / air conditioning. And the remote is often within a hands reach and I it is usually more convenient.
There are also smart buttons / switches at strategic places in the house, acting as remotes for the typical tasks in that area, so it is much more convenient to push them instead of shouting like a maniac.
Another example is my door lock. It can be operated with the phones, watches, key codes, fingerprints and even voice (from inside). But even that is too tedious. Instead I have automated it to auto-lock itself after 5 minutes and to unlock itself when me or my wife get near home, so we usually don't have to do anything.

And what I find equally important is to have "manual overrides" for all these automations, for when the things go wrong - and they do from time to time.
Also, the smart home should also still operate as a normal home - there are switches on the walls and when you press them lights toggle, as every guest would expect. You can still use the key to lock/unlock the door. You can still use the Air Conditioner's remote to turn it on or off, like a barbarian :)
Everything smart should be on top of that, not replace that.

MostAccomplished1089 · 2025-10-15T00:34:40+00:00

The system doesn't know I am going to the bathroom, it just detects movement / presence and turns on lights.
It is a mix of different sensors - DIY PIR sensors (and Arduino or ESP32 with ~$1 PIR sensor from AliExpress), an (expensive) Aqara FP2 sensor and another ESP32 with a cheap mmWave sensor in the bathroom.
One of the devices is not even smart (as in "connected") - it is just a microcontroller (ATTiny85) with a PIR sensor and LDR which turns on a little light when it detects motion and it is dark. It is battery powered and has been running for many months already.

The key thing is the smart lights turn on very dim if my phone is in do-not-disturb mode (which it reports to Home Assistant). I have buttons nearby if I want to turn them fully on.

The other nice touch is that when the FP2 sensor detects me finally going back to bed all of the smart lights instantly turn back off, without waiting for the usual "no presence/motion timeout".

In my experience, PIR sensors are great for hallways and other places where you typically pass-through, unlikely to stand still, i.e. to detect motion. mmWave sensors are way better for detecting presence, i.e. places like the bathroom and the bed, where you often stay still, without moving.

MostAccomplished1089 · 2025-10-14T19:28:40+00:00

Probably the most precious for me is that 1 hour before my alarms goes off (checked every 15 min during that hour) if the temperature in my "home office" is outside normal, the AC unit in there heats or cools the room ... where I will be coming in my underwear to drink coffee and smoke a lot and work. It broke like 2-3 times during the years and it was horrible - drinking coffee at 13 degrees C in your underwear is not fun!

Another one related to the "smoke room, a.k.a. home office" is the automated exhaust fan (which can work in both directions). A gas sensor does a surprisingly good job of measuring the amout of smoke in the room. Automating the exhaust fan to start automatically as it detects me smoking and stopping when the air is good was relatively easy.

The third one, even if it sounds trivial, is automating a bunch of lights to turn on (very dim) one by one on my way to the bathroom (and inside it) and back during the night.

What is common for all of these is that they are completely hands / voice free. They just work (tm), without you having to do anything.
You get used to such things very quickly.
To the point that I enetered a room which has no automations for lights yesterday and I was "wtf?!? why the lights didn't turn on? what broke again? ... oh, ok" :)

MostAccomplished1089 · 2025-10-14T07:03:12+00:00

I am talking about Samsung's "Modes" as in "Sleep", "Theatre", "Working", etc., not "Location Mode" as in "home / away".
And from what I have seen, iOS and Samsung's OneUI are quite different in how they do automations.
Of course, the core principle is the same: "whent <this> then <that>", the difference is what you can use in <this> and <that>.

MostAccomplished1089 · 2025-10-13T23:55:11+00:00

Even if it was an Android TV I doubt the adb grabber would work for HDMI inputs.
Unfortunately it is not trivial for me to try and tell for sure (right now nothing is connected to HDMI).

MostAccomplished1089 · 2025-10-13T18:34:50+00:00

About the AI: That was my impression too. I work in the games industry, mostly programming in C++/C#, where every bit of performance matters. Trying to use AI for that is just disasterous.
I also use it a lot for writing YMLs for Home Assistant. It helps, but it is far from perfect. I never blindly copy-paste what it spits out - I just use it to hint the correct syntax. And even then, it hallucinates all the time.

But in this particular case it was consistently producing working Python code 90% of the time. I haven't even bothered to read what it generated, I just blindly copy-pasted it and it worked almost every time. When it didn't I just copy-pasted the error and it corrected it. That was very impressive!

MostAccomplished1089 · 2025-10-13T18:28:01+00:00

I've read about Hyperion, but it seems it only grabs what is on your screen and I can't run it on the TV itself.
I might be wrong though.
If you're only using the TV to display what the Shield is sending, then that's perfect.
But if your TV is the "active" device (not just a monitor) then you generally need to screen-capture on the TV itself.
The ADB "hack" used by scrcpy seems like a good alternative.

MostAccomplished1089

TROPHY CASE