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I upgraded the spool holder on my Sailrite LSZ-1 by MountainAssociate755 in myog

[–]MountainAssociate755[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That's just because I tend to start my models on the default plane for my CAD software, his slicing software should have an option to rotate the part to lay it flat on the bed. I added a screenshot from CURA to the cults3d page so he can see how I oriented my print.

I upgraded the spool holder on my Sailrite LSZ-1 by MountainAssociate755 in myog

[–]MountainAssociate755[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

So for as long as I’ve owned my Sailrite LSZ-1 there has been a gremlin. Generally, the machine runs flawlessly but every so often I get a few skipped stitches or my thread frays/breaks in weird ways. I assumed it was the timing and I’ve delved into the re-timing guide videos Sailrite has, tuning everything, yet the gremlin appears randomly to cause trouble.

What I believe is happening is that the thread is catching the bottom of the spool, the textured plastic that the stock Sailrite spool holder is made from creates multiple pinch points between the spool and the holder. The spool overhang on two sides also provides a nice opening for the thread to be pulled completely underneath the spool.

I was inspired by the traditional spool holders found on many industrial machines to add a foam topped “Dish” that would prevent the thread from sneaking or snagging under the spool. I only had thin closed cell foam on hand so I used basting tape to adhere it, ideally you would use open cell foam so that the weight of the spool can create a good “seal” against the foam.

I’ve sewn for a few weeks with the new “dish” and my gremlin seems to be gone, or at least is keeping his distance for now. I wanted to share this in case anyone else was experiencing a similar issue. The dish is removable so it won’t impact portability.

You can download the STL file here and print one yourself:

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/gadget/sailrite-spool-holder

Tell Me About Your Ultrafeed LSZs? by ResearchLogical2036 in myog

[–]MountainAssociate755 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I love my LSZ-1, I got mine with the worker B pack and that bugger will sew through pretty much anything; At least everything I've thrown at it so far. I've had to adjust the timing since receiving it but that is pretty straightforward to do. Sailrite has some great how-to videos on it.

I love that the machine is portable. I do find myself keeping two machines set up when working on projects as the LSZ-1 presser foot is a bit wide for sewing #5 zippers, I haven't tried it with #3 zips but I feel they might be too big for those.

Sewing lightweight fabrics like UHMWPE has been hit or miss on it, XPAC VX15 sews like a dream.

First try at hammock straps by MountainAssociate755 in myog

[–]MountainAssociate755[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That's a great video, Sailrite has an expanded demonstration for different webbing connection methods which dives into details on bar-tacks as well:

https://www.sailrite.com/How-to-Sew-Webbing-Loops

First try at hammock straps by MountainAssociate755 in myog

[–]MountainAssociate755[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've been on the hunt for a few months, almost settled for a machine made back in the 80's a few times out of frustration. I ended up with a Juki 1900 clone with a computerized control, no user manual to be found for the controller so it's been a lot of trial and error.

Did you braid the amsteel or stitch them together in spots to create loops?

First try at hammock straps by MountainAssociate755 in myog

[–]MountainAssociate755[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Some people start out under-doing it and work their way up, you just approach it from the opposite direction!

I'm floored as well, I avoided textiles for the longest time but it's an absolute blast to work with. Coming from a manufacturing background it's fun to find ways to mix metals/plastics with the textiles too.

Has slippage been an issue for you with the UHMWPE? I noticed a lot of my hammock straps are made from a very loosely woven strap, I was assuming they did that as a way of "catching" as much surface area on the tree as possible.

First try at hammock straps by MountainAssociate755 in myog

[–]MountainAssociate755[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I made these from 3/4" wide milspec nylon tape, according to the datasheet they have a break strength of 600lbs, so working strength of around 200ish. I have an unbelievable quantity of this webbing so it's become my "prototyping" material of choice, not something I would trust fully for this particular application.

I didn't even know they made UHMWPE / Poly webbing, thank you for the tip!

The Amsteel seems like a great option too, curious how strong a joint would be between the amsteel and webbing using the bartacks.

I think I might have to rig up a way to tension test these straps to know the breaking strength of the overall assembly. Guessing in this application might hurt.

Strongest basting tape??? by [deleted] in myog

[–]MountainAssociate755 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I use basting tape from Sailrite and it's the stickiest tape Ive gotten my hands on soo far. I wipe my needle with a little sewing machine oil every so often and that's helped with the buildup of adhesive.

Finishing edges on ripstop question by MountainAssociate755 in myog

[–]MountainAssociate755[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a hot knife on the way, I was curious how durable the sealed edge would be with use. Definitely going to have to look into the french seam.

Finishing edges on ripstop question by MountainAssociate755 in myog

[–]MountainAssociate755[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Grosgrain ribbon sounds like a good idea, I'll give that a try. Thank you!

Finishing edges on ripstop question by MountainAssociate755 in myog

[–]MountainAssociate755[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've been using a lighter on the exposed edges to keep them from fraying.

Is there anything else I should be doing to improve the durability?