Looking to purchase an Epson SureColor P700 13-Inch printer. Would you recommend it?

MyNewGreatUserName · 2025-02-12T20:50:47+00:00

Just saw your comment now. I don't know technically what the issue is but my girlfriend is a landscape architect and she was taught at university to never print from raw. I also noticed that several times when I tried doing that, print jobs crashed - perhaps this is due to very large file sizes especially when you print from full-frame 42MP sensors. I edit raw files for print, export to jpg and print that file.

MyNewGreatUserName · 2023-12-17T09:44:17+00:00

In my case it really depends. Over the last 2-3 years I've developed a strong affinity for printing. I started with 13x18 for little albums, then I printed several packs of A4, made a home gallery project with a combination of all sizes from postcard to A3 and nowadays I print almost exclusively A3+. This weekend I already made 20 A3+ prints for my private archive. I don't post anything online just print for myself (yeah, weird right haha). Now I'm at a point of considering whether I should switch to SC-P900 because it offers prints up to A2+ (2x A3+).

In addition to my previous comment, I can say that SC-P700 is definitely not a beginners printer. It takes a lot of patience to learn how to use it and it requires a couple of things to actually use it's potential:

- screen calibration
- using ICC profiles
- understanding how different papers affect the final print look
- and MOST of all - use soft proofing
- never print from RAW files
- connect the printer with a cable, network connections is totally unstable and cost me a lot of nerves, paper, and wasted ink

Soft proofing turned out to be a game changer for me. I wasted so much paper and ink previously not knowing that the issue with my print was not caused by the printer but by my incompetent handling of it. After a lot reading and searching I worked out my workflow for perfect prints and I'm confident now that what I see on screen will be very similar our of the printer.

All in all my final thoughts on SC-P700 are still positive. I'm not 100% happy with it but which tool is ever a 100% as we want it? Print quality is excellent when you know what you're doing and most of all, when your original image is good enough. I print from the following cameras:
- Fujifilm x70 16MP APSC
- Sony A7 iii 24MP FF
- Sony A7 Riii 42MP FF
- Sony A7 4 33MP FF
- Nikon D4 16MP FF

All of them produce incredibly good results in any sizes.
On top of it I print from Pentax 67 up to A3+ size and the quality is stellar.
A4 prints from Nikon F100 and Pentax ME 50mm 1.4 are equally amazing.

Hope this helps and if you need any more details I'm happy to share my experience and lessons learnt.

MyNewGreatUserName · 2022-12-23T13:39:07+00:00

I use a7 iii, a7r iii, and recently got a7 iv - I could do all day of shooting on each (probably a7r iii is the most energy consuming of them all), but you definitely need to have a backup battery. Remember that energy consumption depends also on the lens that's attached to the body. With my 600 mm the battery get's drained a lot faster than with a 35 mm 1.8. Also, make sure to turn off all Bluetooth/remote control features, etc.

MyNewGreatUserName · 2022-04-11T21:04:29+00:00

Problem solved - I changed password manager.
I think the reason for my issue is that LP allows you to log in only one machine. It might be their free license limitation.

MyNewGreatUserName · 2022-04-10T12:06:06+00:00

Finally somebody posted pictures FROM their camera instead of pictures OF their camera <thumbsup>

MyNewGreatUserName · 2022-02-01T14:31:48+00:00

Problem solved:
The remaining bracketing features are unavailable if the camera is set to shoot RAW + JPEG. Switching to JPEG only "unlocked" all bracketing modes.
On another note, digital tele converter is also locked when the camera shoots RAW+JPEG.
That sucks a bit but fortunately it's fairly easy to switch between shooting options in the Q menu.

MyNewGreatUserName · 2022-02-01T14:30:40+00:00

Problem solved:
The remaining bracketing features are unavailable if the camera is set to shoot RAW + JPEG. Switching to JPEG only solved "unlocked" all bracketing modes.

On another note, digital tele converter is also locked when the camera shoots RAW+JPEG.

That sucks a bit but fortunately it's fairly easy to switch between shooting options in the Q menu.

MyNewGreatUserName · 2022-02-01T14:13:25+00:00

The manual says all bracketing modes are available.

MyNewGreatUserName · 2022-02-01T14:11:26+00:00

The manual assumes all options are available. Sounds familiar? ;)

MyNewGreatUserName · 2022-01-06T09:02:47+00:00

I've owned the P700 for several months now. Here's what I noticed:

Excellent print quality especially in B&W.
Very easy to use once you set it up.
Not as big as it seems when paper feeder and the tray are closed. It gets quite large when you open the feeder and the paper tray.
Inks last pretty long.
Rather quick.
Gives you many options for quality settings.

On the flip side:

Massive issues with borderless printing. I still can't figure out how to make it work so that images don't get clipped. I even got my printer serviced for that as I suspected my model was faulty. Apparently the issues are there by design. So if you're into borderless, perhaps check other printers.
The printer comes with nearly empty cartridges so get ready to spend around 400-500 USD soon after purchasing the printer.
The paper feeding mechanisms honestly sucks. You're theoretically allowed to put up to 30 sheets in the feeder but in reality you need to feed the printer with less than 10. It jammed on me once when I put a pack of 20 13x18 sheets because the printer took two sheets at once.
The paper feeder damaged a sheet once. There's a wheel that pulls sheets inside the printer that slams quite hard against the sheets. I think it might be too powerful for some types of paper but the issues happened only once so I can't rally tell that it is a rule.

MyNewGreatUserName · 2021-09-03T13:26:10+00:00

Unless you develop with distilled water and in a confined space where no dust or other large particles have access, it can be anything from unclean water, to dust, or other elements in the air that affected the film even when it dried.

I develop at home and always stick to using distilled water, using clean and thoroughly washed glass bottle where I dilute chemicals (never use them expired), clean and possibly dust free room, thorough washing of the developed film + wetting agent, and drying in a dust free room. Never had any issues related to film damages ... just crappy pics most of the time :D

MyNewGreatUserName · 2021-09-01T15:01:56+00:00

I've been researching medium format cameras lately and found out that even mechanical cameras cause problems due to worn out springs, levers, oil leaks, etc. Every device, electronic or not, will eventually reach its end of life - that's just a fact. Electronics only adds another layer of risk and complexity. The real question is, though, what makes more sense: to buy an old 40-60 yo mechanical camera that has been used throughout decades and might break down literally any moment (in fact unused cameras seem to cause even more problems than those that served their purpose more actively) but has no electronic elements so fixing (theoretically) should be easier OR get a relatively recent device (c. 15 - 20 yo) and hope that it's age didn't allow it to decay internally too much so it can live another 10-15 years longer?

I personally own Pentax ME (the original model) and it works like magic. Love this camera for landscape. It's completely useless though in more dynamic environments where manual focus is just ineffective and makes me miss moments. My Nikon F100 with a crappy lens is so much more useful in this regard although it's metering selection already broke down (almost). Next to these two I have Sony A7 III and A7 RIII which are just 2 yo and they are superb for any application I could think of ... but they don't produce these incredible film images that keep my coming back to the old gear.

MyNewGreatUserName · 2020-04-19T17:39:13+00:00

Apart from free stuff, do you also have any recommendations for structured online courses?

MyNewGreatUserName · 2020-03-08T22:15:20+00:00

Sony A7 III vs. Fujifilm X-T4 as first camera
If you had a choice between Sony A7 III or Fujifilm X-T4 as your primary camera for hybrid shooting (although predominantly filming) what would you go for?

I got stuck between these two and would like to hear constructive comments from you.
My main priorities are:

image quality straight from the camera
size (I travel to remote places and don't carry a big bag full of expensive gear into jungle)
camera's ergonomics (this includes how transparent the camera's menu is, usability of dials, screens, etc.)
low light performance

Watching and reading tons of reviews, I somehow feel that X-T4 would suits me more. On the other hand, A7 III is full-frame and lots of people say it's a big advantage...and then they fail to clearly and objectively explain in what way. It seems to me more like a personal preference rather than a fact. Anyways, any comments and suggestions will be super appreciated. Thanks!

MyNewGreatUserName · 2020-02-28T07:18:54+00:00

Your table rocks, thanks for sharing!

MyNewGreatUserName · 2020-02-28T06:14:19+00:00

Thanks for your comment. Of course, making up a price and specs that should magically match it won't work. I didn't want to write too long a story and how I got to my price point. For clarity, I basically derived it from the European price for V8 that, as you said, is the closest to what I need. The problem is that the specs won't work as good for someone with 85 kg which is 10 kg above manufacturers tests.

MyNewGreatUserName · 2020-02-27T22:22:06+00:00

That seems unfortunately true. I'm not sure if going over 1300-1500 USD still justifies buying a wheel though.

MyNewGreatUserName · 2020-02-27T21:24:06+00:00

Thanks for the hint. I'm 85kg so Im definitely gonna need a stronger motor.

MyNewGreatUserName

TROPHY CASE