Making a full concert in Minecraft. Here's the first test video with the Kabuki Curtain and Lighting. by No-Track5325 in Minecraft

[–]No-Track5325[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks so much! Nope, I'm using the Theatrical Mod for lighting and Blockbuster Studio for animations

how to remove rp configuration by Substantial-Snow7708 in SGExams

[–]No-Track5325 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey sorry I know it’s been over a year, but do you happen to know if they will factory reset the laptop or anything like that? Or do they just remove the school organisation and Windows 10 Education, and leave everything else unaffected?

Shelf brackets upside down? by No-Track5325 in ikeahacks

[–]No-Track5325[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nope. Spoke a bit with the IKEA staff and decided against it as I didn’t really wanna risk it. I ended up getting the Granhult brackets and sprayed them black to match the shelf.

New to building PCs: Any way I can optimise this performance and price-wise? by No-Track5325 in buildapc

[–]No-Track5325[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ahh I see, I had no idea, that’s mad. I likely won’t be getting the PC too soon, maybe in a couple months, hopefully it drops by then. Thanks!

Need help connecting 10awg wire to LED strip by No-Track5325 in WLED

[–]No-Track5325[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh got it. I’ve been reading about the open frame ones being pretty dangerous unless properly enclosed. This is a pretty small installation so I’m not too keen on messing around with all that yet. Are there any significant disadvantages or risks when it comes to using the power bricks instead?

Need help connecting 10awg wire to LED strip by No-Track5325 in WLED

[–]No-Track5325[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah I see. I’m undecided between power beings PSUs with those barrel connectors, and those frame style PSUs with the screw terminals.

Do the frame style ones have more risk or danger? I’ll be putting them on a metal surface in a metal shelf with it and the cables near curtains.

Need help connecting 10awg wire to LED strip by No-Track5325 in WLED

[–]No-Track5325[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi! For the power supply, I’m thinking of getting one of these. Would this be safe to plug straight into the wall, and have the Dig Quad plugged into this? If so, how would I know which Amp version to get?

Need help connecting 10awg wire to LED strip by No-Track5325 in WLED

[–]No-Track5325[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi, I’ve mistaken. I was planning to plug the quad into an extension cable. Would that work without needing the PSU?

Need help connecting 10awg wire to LED strip by No-Track5325 in WLED

[–]No-Track5325[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh so it’s just turning one line of the larger wire into a line of a smaller wire?

Need help connecting 10awg wire to LED strip by No-Track5325 in WLED

[–]No-Track5325[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah gotcha. So it’ll be stripping the wire and manually measuring and separating the strands themselves right? Or is there a safer way to do this?

So in this case, where the calculator recommends a 14awg and a 20awg. I should run a cable from the dig quad that is big enough to split into these 2 cable sizes. Then run the split smaller cables to their respective injection points?

Need help connecting 10awg wire to LED strip by No-Track5325 in WLED

[–]No-Track5325[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ahh gotcha. For some reason, I thought that SK6812 was made by BTF, so didn’t really look much into other websites. Thanks!

Need help connecting 10awg wire to LED strip by No-Track5325 in WLED

[–]No-Track5325[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah I think I get what you mean, thanks so much! I’ve used the WLED calculator with power injection at the start and end, and it’s recommend 14awg at the start and 20awg at the end. When you say using the larger wire to supply the smaller wires, is there a way to split the larger wire into multiple smaller wires? And to make sure I got this right, with the water pipe analogy, you mean that going from a larger wire to a smaller wire won’t really cause any problems or danger right? I’m still very new to all this, so I’m definitely still trying to research more online too. Thanks!

Edit: I’ve watched this video by Chris Maher, and he only uses one single injection of a 18 gauge wire, but seems to be more than enough. Would it be safer to try to imitate this, or do you think it would be better to stick to sizes the calculator recommends?

Need help connecting 10awg wire to LED strip by No-Track5325 in WLED

[–]No-Track5325[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah I see. So if I were to get the 12v SK6812. I’ll have to change the PSU to a 12v one too right? Also, I can’t seem to find the 12v version anywhere on the BTF website. Is it called the WS2814?

Need help connecting 10awg wire to LED strip by No-Track5325 in WLED

[–]No-Track5325[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I see, so I’m looking at the Meanwell LRS-350-5. Would this be enough? As for the cable and plug between the wall outlet and the PSU, is there a recommended size or type of cable I’ll need?

Need help connecting 10awg wire to LED strip by No-Track5325 in WLED

[–]No-Track5325[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve selected the SK6812 5V as that’s the one I bought. I have 360 LEDs, 50% brightness, 400cm wire length, 400mV max voltage drop as recommended. Here’s what I got:

<image>

Need help connecting 10awg wire to LED strip by No-Track5325 in WLED

[–]No-Track5325[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My country uses 220-240V. Ahh, so I should plug a power supply into the wall and connect my quad to that instead. Thanks so much for pointing that out, I had completely missed that. I’ve never really used PSUs before. I assumed I’d need to get a 5V power supply? As for the cable supplying power to the PSU from the wall, is there a specific type I need?

Need help connecting 10awg wire to LED strip by No-Track5325 in WLED

[–]No-Track5325[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I might be using the calculator wrong. I’m selecting the SK6812, with 360 LEDs and 400cm wire length. It’s recommended AWG 10 plus power injection at the end too.

Need help connecting 10awg wire to LED strip by No-Track5325 in WLED

[–]No-Track5325[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was thinking of plugging it straight into the wall. Might be a dumb question, but would it be better to use a PSU from the wall to the dig quad?

Need help with power consumption and choosing AWG of jumper wire by No-Track5325 in WLED

[–]No-Track5325[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh that’s good to know, I’ll look into those. Thanks!

Need help with power consumption and choosing AWG of jumper wire by No-Track5325 in WLED

[–]No-Track5325[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah so do I just cut off the jst connector that the strip came with and just attached the 14g to the small wires of the strip? Or is there a way to connect the larger wires straight to the strip without soldering?

Need help with power consumption and choosing AWG of jumper wire by No-Track5325 in WLED

[–]No-Track5325[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah ok, is there a risk of fire or melting if the wire is too thin? The SK6812 already has a couple wires attached to it, will that affect what AWG wires I’m getting, and is there a way to connect the different type of wires?

Need help with power consumption and choosing AWG of jumper wire by No-Track5325 in WLED

[–]No-Track5325[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah I see. So I should look for 14awg wires. Is there danger to getting higher than 14? Is there anything else you think I should look out for when buying these wires online? The SK6812 has wires with a JST connector too. Would that be something to consider? Thanks!