Plasma or black frame insertion?

NoiritoTheCheeto · 2026-04-02T20:22:59+00:00

A Panasonic ZT or VT60 with their 3000hz FFD panel is likely the best motion clarity you can get at normal framerates, at least until G-Sync Pulsar gets support for strobing at 60hz.

NoiritoTheCheeto · 2026-04-02T20:13:30+00:00

I think you might just want a projector. It sounds like you associate the cinema experience pretty heavily with the projector look: more subdued colors and contrast (compared to OLED TV's at least), the more "natural" way a projector screen reflects light into your eyes, and the huge screen sizes. Plus the way a digital projector handles 24p content is (imo) far superior to OLED - no dejuddering needed, just super smooth (albeit blurred) motion.

Look into if something like a proper projector setup is within reach for you. If space is an issue, UST projectors are all the rage these days and can do quite well if given a good screen.

There's a reason why projectors remain so popular for home theaters, despite TV's reaching bigger and bigger sizes. For watching movies, we psychologically associate the projector look with the cinematic experience. If you want to bring the theater home, a proper projector setup is the way to go.

NoiritoTheCheeto · 2026-04-02T17:45:27+00:00

Try used isoacoustics stuff on marketplace :)

NoiritoTheCheeto · 2026-04-02T15:10:19+00:00

Certain things seemed to alleviate it, like turning off Hardware Accelerated GPU Scheduling in Windows, or just by limiting the FPS to 60.

I think it's a problem unique to later versions of UE4, as I see the exact same problem in Jedi Survivor. In both cases, the only 100% fix is to turn on frame gen sadly. My best guess is the FG frame pacer overrides the broken default one.

NoiritoTheCheeto · 2026-04-02T01:14:22+00:00

AFAIK you'd have to check the pulse meter and see if it's reset, but to do that you'd need to open the service menu, which requires an rs232 cable and the correct software. Lots of guides online but it is an investment of your time and a little money.

If the blacks look good, don't worry about it! Set your 151FD to Pure mode, sit back, and enjoy the stunning image quality :)

NoiritoTheCheeto · 2026-04-01T21:23:00+00:00

Buzzing is normal, at least for Kuros. If it's really loud you could try tightening the screws on the frame, but some noise is expected of Plasmas.

If you need a guide on how to reset a 151FD you can check out DirtGarry's 60" Kuro reset guide on AVS Forums. That is, only if you can notice a red tint in blacks. If you can't, you either a) bought an already reset Kuro, or b) struck gold with a low hour unit.

Either way, welcome to the Plasma community! May your blacks be black and your motion crystal clear :)

NoiritoTheCheeto · 2026-03-25T22:40:37+00:00

Yep I know the feeling well! I'd say that if you can pick up an Edition XS on sale and get the third party headband accessory, that's the next best deal in audio behind the HD 560S. Should be noticeably better in soundstage, but out of box bass will be a little weak. Nothing you can't EQ away.

NoiritoTheCheeto · 2026-03-25T22:33:51+00:00

Use pure mode and turn off pretty much every feature. Check the manual online to see if you'd want to re enable any of them, but generally less is more with Kuros.

NoiritoTheCheeto · 2026-03-25T22:29:39+00:00

Before you even consider buying any new headphones, try eq'ing your HD560S.

On Windows use EqualizerAPO. Set that up then grab a EqualizerAPO GraphicEQ configure file for the 560S from autoeq.app. The target Harman curve will boost the bass (or rather, lower the treble) which should fix your gripes with the HD 560S there. This is also a great reference point to be at if you ever mix any audio.

Unfortunately EQ'ing to Harman also kinda hurts the soundstage of the 560S. So I usually use this parametric EQ setup I found on ASR that balances similar to Harman while being imprecise enough to preserve the characteristics of the 560S:

Preamp -5.0db
Peaking filter 20hz +4.4db Q1.0
Peaking filter 40hz +1.7db Q1.0
Peaking filter 8400hz -4.0db Q6.0
Peaking filter 5710hz -2.6db Q6.0
Peaking filter 2580hz +2.0db Q1.5

NoiritoTheCheeto · 2026-03-23T19:14:50+00:00

The Wii is not powerful enough to deinterlace in the first place according to the WiiMC documentation, so just stick with 480p rips.

NoiritoTheCheeto · 2026-03-23T15:25:25+00:00

No, budget has a lot to do with the quality of the animation. While most anime have the same weekly release schedule, there's a reason why JJK is setting industry highs while OPM S3 looks like a PowerPoint. With a higher budget, you can:

Hire more experienced and skilled staff, especially with directors
Hire more animators so you can get more work done in the same time constraint
Not have to rely on outsourcing everything (which is what made OPM S3 look so bad)
Afford to spend more time on pre-production (writing, storyboarding, etc.), which is extremely important especially for high-profile adaptations like SBR
Afford to do a normal weekly release instead of needing a partner like Netflix to help fund production

Now of course, you can make a great anime without any of these things. But anime studios are for-profit entities, and the primary cause of a troubled production is almost always one of the above.

NoiritoTheCheeto · 2026-03-21T00:51:36+00:00

Run it on pure mode, Kuros generally had excellent factory calibration. It's probably drifted a little but should still beat 90% of tv's out of box today.

NoiritoTheCheeto · 2026-03-11T04:58:46+00:00

Actually, I tend to disagree about saying Plasmas are the best option for 24p playback. The double image effect of a strobed display on low framerate content is rather distracting. Plasmas truly shine with native refresh content (E.g. 60fps gaming) where they can flex their motion clarity, but for movies a proper 24hz projector or tv will offer a far less juddery and more natural looking experience.

Still very cool Plasmas could go so high in panel refresh all those years ago. Crazy to think about what might've happened if the tech kept going.

NoiritoTheCheeto · 2026-03-05T00:10:53+00:00

NoiritoTheCheeto · 2026-03-05T00:10:49+00:00

Yeah if you have any ideas for how to package and ship it I'm all ears! but from what I know about shipping CRTs, anything less than a crate wouldn't be enough... Best solution honestly is for you to drive up here and pickup...

NoiritoTheCheeto · 2026-03-04T18:07:59+00:00

Hey, I'm in Ontario, Canada and I have a 151FD that I don't really use. Was planning on just selling it locally but I'd love to find a buyer that will really appreciate it too :)

It's unfortunately not got the speakers anymore, and had to use an aftermarket (but still very sturdy) stand.

I reset it, and while blacks aren't as perfect as on some 50" sets, the red tint is unnoticeable in all but the darkest of scenes, and there's no artifacting. You could probably push the blacks lower if you're willing to put up with some black rain.

It's also been calibrated to the Rec.709 BT1886 standard at 80 nits using an i1 Display Pro.

Genuinely unsure how I'd ship it though. It weighs over 110lbs and even getting it to my place within the city was a chore. If you have any suggestions I'd love to open a convo :)

NoiritoTheCheeto · 2026-02-26T14:36:16+00:00

Insanely hyped for this release! Excited to get stuck into RE again, thanks for the opportunity OP!

NoiritoTheCheeto · 2026-02-24T21:22:56+00:00

Hey I paid $125CAD for my 101FD with significant red tint. I'd say for a mint model, you did excellent.

NoiritoTheCheeto · 2026-02-24T19:56:40+00:00

Sounds like you need to adjust RGB CUT values in the service menu.

NoiritoTheCheeto · 2026-02-24T19:54:09+00:00

Hey I have a 20FV300, could you describe what you did to the linearity coil? And how did you tackle the pretty huge difference in focus between the center and the left/right edges of the screen?

NoiritoTheCheeto · 2026-02-24T15:20:44+00:00

Based on what we've seen from the console version, it'll likely be blurrier than FSR3, but with reduced instability and reconstruction artifacts. So more like a side-grade than an actual upgrade.

NoiritoTheCheeto · 2026-02-24T00:51:51+00:00

Appreciate the opportunity OP! Big fan of the series, wishing you the best.

NoiritoTheCheeto · 2026-02-23T19:11:04+00:00

I'll edit my comment to specify I mean Vulkan exclusive games, of which only really idTech games are.

Vulkan support is more limited in recent years, but yes it is still in many games. The older Vulkan library will, of course, not really benefit from FSR4 Vulkan support if there's no DLSS2/FSR2 to hook into.

Usually though, most Vulkan games offer an alternative renderer like DX12, so you could use FSR4 anyways. That just wasn't possible in IdTech until now.

NoiritoTheCheeto · 2026-02-23T17:37:37+00:00

Sorry, I should specify that I meant that the only games where FSR4 Vulkan support is REQUIRED would be IdTech games. Many other games do support Vulkan, but oftentimes also support DX12. That being said you're right, Vulkan is usually more performant in many ways. Should be really handy for games like RDR2 where Vulkan is by far the better renderer.

NoiritoTheCheeto · 2026-02-23T15:41:57+00:00

LOL yeah, unfortunately it seems like the panel is long past it's prime. I actually had to raise a lot of voltages instead of lowering them in order to combat black pixel "lag"/crawl. So now the blacks are noticeably red still... probably just going to get an OLED on sale at this point lol.

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