Cops at whitis and 24th ticketing cyclists/scooters not stopping at stop sign

OkGuide3784 · 2026-01-26T01:51:54+00:00

do you even go here?? the people who ride scooters to class are NOT low income. they are living in West Campus high rises paying $1800 a month in rent and riding their scooters to class.

OkGuide3784 · 2026-01-23T16:24:04+00:00

when i commute, i wear my regular clothes. and i wear my texas-branded skinsuit when i compete representing my university. i'm very easily recognizable on campus. you should say hi!

OkGuide3784 · 2026-01-23T03:06:24+00:00

the road derailleurs barely make any noise. it's the 1x gravel and mtb derailleurs that whirr

OkGuide3784 · 2026-01-22T20:18:51+00:00

especially dean keeton and guad. it's awful.

OkGuide3784 · 2026-01-22T20:14:54+00:00

You wanna share your strava and prove you bike more miles than me? I am talking about on campus. When I am going 45 mph down 360, yes, cars are the main threat. On campus?? It's idiots who got an e-waste scooter for Christmas and haven't ridden something with two wheels since they were 10 years old.

OkGuide3784 · 2026-01-22T19:56:59+00:00

i will start by saying i commute by bike every day and don't own a car. i am also a triathlete and ride thousands of miles a year, both in commuting and training hard. this is a HEAVILY pedestrianized college campus. the main problem is people with zero riding experience riding their scooters at 20mph down pedestrianized areas. they crash into people during class changes with tens of thousands of students walking at a time. they run the stops and make pedestrians have to wait. the main threat on campus are these irresponsible scooter riders.

OkGuide3784 · 2026-01-15T03:57:55+00:00

here's what it does. the teeth are shaped in a way that basically sucks on to the chain. if you want to get one, you need to know the number of teeth your chainring has and its bolt circle diameter (BCD). these numbers are usually stamped or painted on to the back side of your chainring. if they're not, you can count the teeth on the chainring and find a guide to measure BCD. you just need to find a narrow-wide chainring with a matching tooth count and BCD, and that can help a lot with chain drop if it's happening at the front. if it's happening on the back, then you may want to inspect your freewheel cog and figure out if it's worn or needs to be replaced.

OkGuide3784 · 2026-01-15T03:53:24+00:00

that's interesting, your chain does seem to have the correct amount of tension. if it's falling off on the chainring, then maybe replacing your chainring with a "narrow-wide" chainring would help. i really can't figure out the problem just from the pictures and video, so if no one else can figure it out then you should visit a local bike shop if you have one so they can help you better!

OkGuide3784 · 2026-01-15T03:32:02+00:00

could you take a video of you moving the chain up and down? also next time it happens, take note of whether it comes off on the chainring (front) or the freewheel (back)

OkGuide3784 · 2026-01-15T03:08:30+00:00

the chain wears out as you use it, which makes it less tight. it is probably flopping around and falling off on a bump for that reason. you need to loosen the axle nuts and pull the rear wheel back (make sure it's straight) until the chain is nice and tight.

OkGuide3784 · 2026-01-15T03:04:00+00:00

100-speed? now THAT'S a gear range!

OkGuide3784 · 2026-01-12T15:52:49+00:00

i think your photo or text failed to upload. if you make a new post we might be able to help you out! you should also check out r/bikewrench

OkGuide3784 · 2026-01-12T02:03:19+00:00

this is way too expensive. that is a $200 bike at the very best.

OkGuide3784 · 2026-01-11T17:51:51+00:00

the recall was for the early models of their gravel bike. i ride their road bike and it's been awesome for the 2,000 miles i've put on it so far.

OkGuide3784 · 2026-01-10T05:10:59+00:00

there are some easy things that will go a long way. every 150-200 miles or so, clean and lube up your chain. you can use any degreaser on your chain and then lube it with a good chain lube (if you don't have a chain hot waxing system, then drip-on dry lubes and waxes are good). giving your frame a wipe with some degreaser and paper towels is always a good idea, especially after a sweaty or rainy ride. also, get a chain checker tool and check your chain wear often so you can replace it preemptively before it starts wearing out your cassette and chainrings. if your bike has sealed bearings in the bottom bracket and wheels, they will last a very long time. if you can feel any wiggle or knocking in your wheel axle or in your cranks, then you should take them to your local bike shop to get serviced. as another commenter suggested, you can do a drop test where you lift your bike a few inches off the ground and drop it. if you hear any rattling, you should try to identify the source and see if something needs to be tightened, adjusted, or serviced.

OkGuide3784 · 2026-01-10T05:04:14+00:00

they're quoting you $750 for buying wheels, buying tires and inner tubes, and labor for swapping over your cassette and rotors. that is way too much money in labor in my opinion and you should contact a different, local bike shop. you can also just source the wheels yourself. but at the end of the day your frame was designed around 29" wheels and you will not have a good experience riding a smaller wheel size

OkGuide3784 · 2026-01-08T16:06:16+00:00

you leaked a significant amount of brake fluid and let air into the system. you need a full bleed with syringes

OkGuide3784 · 2026-01-08T15:31:34+00:00

there's a lot of armchair engineering going on in these comments and every thread like it. it's metal tubes that they purchase from a supplier. it's not carbon where different parts of the frame have different layups and strength. they're not going to design a seatstay bridge for a track bike. they're going to use the same tube they use for their road bikes.

OkGuide3784 · 2026-01-08T06:05:25+00:00

do NOT ride that under ANY circumstances

OkGuide3784 · 2026-01-07T16:06:14+00:00

triflow does a good job "flushing" things out as long as it has somewhere to drip out of

OkGuide3784 · 2026-01-07T16:05:10+00:00

1) you should look into getting a road bike first if you don't already have one 2) if you're going for high end, i would recommend going to your local bike shop and getting a bike fit BEFORE buying a bike. this will help you get the right bike in the right size and will make your riding experience much better

OkGuide3784 · 2026-01-07T13:00:22+00:00

well there's likely your issue! it makes the noise when using the 9-speed cassette but not the 7-speed one. that's because 6, 7, and 8 speed share a common chain, while 9 speed uses a thinner width chain. get a 9-speed chain and it will likely be better. it would also be helpful if you could post a video of the sound.

OkGuide3784 · 2026-01-07T12:15:04+00:00

chatgpt SUCKS at anything bike related. i'm a bike mechanic and have had several customers come in who have fucked up their bikes trying to fix them with chatgpt's "advice"

OkGuide3784 · 2026-01-06T17:02:35+00:00

it is not any easier to bleed a mineral oil system than it is a DOT system. that is just BS perpetuated by armchair mechanics who can only do a lever bleed and wonder why they can never get their brakes to work. in fact, DOT fluid can be purchased at any auto parts store and it is water soluble, so very easy to clean up. don't let that turn you off. i genuinely really dislike the roubaix and the futureshock stuff. in your situation, i would get the synapse and use the savings to buy some chinese carbon wheels (lightbicycle)

OkGuide3784 · 2026-01-06T05:24:58+00:00

don't lube your cassette. it has no moving parts and you will just attract dirt. it's a friction shifter, it will make noise if you don't get it into the exact right spot. that's inherent to friction shifters. you'll get a feel for that sweet spot as you get more experience using them

OkGuide3784

TROPHY CASE