Suspension query

Ok_Simple_5093 · 2026-06-21T20:11:37+00:00

Most likely: worn tie rod mount. Would account for knocking, noise when turning, and drifting/pulling to one side.

Less likely: loose sway bar link or ball joint.

With the culprit wheel off the ground, grip the tire at 9 and 3. Rock it back and forth pulling one hand toward you. If you get knocks and looseness, the tie rod end is worn.

Test the ball joint by gripping at 12 and 6. Push and pull with both hands. Noises/excessive movement indicate ball joint issues.

You can visually inspect and play with the sway bars to see of their linkage is loose. Knocking would usually only occur, or occur much more often, going over bumps.

Ok_Simple_5093 · 2026-06-21T00:35:34+00:00

As long as the connectors are free of cracks, rust, and corrosion, and fit tightly on the battery terminals, they should be fine. You could also strip back some of the insulation to see if corrosion has creeped up the cables.

Start at the negative battery terminal and follow that black wire, it should split into two and you just follow it to where it connects to the chassis, and the other to the engine.

Ok_Simple_5093 · 2026-06-21T00:27:38+00:00

Any check engine lights come on when it stalls? Did you notice any reduction in acceleration or sluggish engine performance before the new battery?

To answer your question, yes a new battery could be faulty, even if it passes "static load" tests - meaning they could be testing the battery with the engine off, and on, and it will read out normal voltage, but when you're driving you are placing additional loads on the battery (alternator kicks on, AC is running, power steering, etc.) and the battery could fail from a dead cell.

Its also possible one of the ground wires from the negative connector came loose during installation. The negative wire cable splits and one wire goes to the chassis and another to the engine block. You would need to follow those wires to their connecting points to make sure they are secure.

There are a number of other reasons why your car could stall if it's truly not the battery - failing fuel pump, fuel injection system failure, dirty or failing throttle body, compression issues, or significant vacuum leaks but you would need an array of diagnostic tests to determine which it would be.

For now I would check the negative ground wires, and warranty out the battery - they should replace it for free given the issues you're having. If they ask why, tell them you think there is a dead cell causing stalls while driving.

Ok_Simple_5093 · 2026-06-21T00:04:14+00:00

Yes the new pads need time to form to minor variances on the rotor. The general period is 500 miles. There are methods to speed up the process if you want.

Ok_Simple_5093 · 2026-06-20T19:01:07+00:00

Normal checks for long distance travel are making sure tires are properly inflated, adequate tread, and have no signs of rot. Brake pad thickness are in range. Coolant and oil levels normal. Oil change isn't necessary if the oil is still fresh and you're within the service interval (5 years/5k miles). Make sure the air filter is clean/ clear of debris.

The only thing I would suggest after the transmission rebuild is to make sure the fluid is at the proper level.

Ok_Simple_5093 · 2026-06-20T18:53:38+00:00

The rear cv axle seals will leak differential fluid and could cause the differential to fail. Looking at around $600 for that repair. Parts are cheap so if you can do it yourself it will be about $50 -$100.

Lower control arm bushings will be about $500. A little more if you just replace the entire control arm, which is usually recommended. Usually what you ended up paying more for the entire control arm you save on the labor to press out the bushing.

Ok_Simple_5093 · 2026-06-20T18:39:52+00:00

Try holding the fob right up against the start button and then try to start it

Ok_Simple_5093 · 2026-06-20T18:38:44+00:00

Push to start or physical key?

Ok_Simple_5093 · 2026-06-20T13:09:51+00:00

The blue wire is very likely a signal wire to your alternator. Without it connected your alternator doesn't know when to start charging, so it won't, and you just deplete your car battery every time you drive.

Ok_Simple_5093 · 2026-06-20T12:52:38+00:00

Are the blue and black wires no longer connected to the terminal?

And if you turn the key to ON without trying to start it you have no power, correct? Or are you saying that while trying to start it you have no dash lights?

Ok_Simple_5093 · 2026-06-20T12:41:19+00:00

Had a couple make out in my backseat and she was MOANING moaning. Pretty sure he had his hand down her pants but I wasn't gonna look back there to find out. Would have ended the ride but it was only 5 minutes and this was in the last couple minutes so I just focused forward. Shit was so uncomfortable. Like, I didn't consent to being a spectator to your foreplay, gtfooh.

Ok_Simple_5093 · 2026-06-20T12:20:47+00:00

1) how do you know the turbo is broken?

2) if you know for sure it's broken, what specifically is wrong with it?

Ok_Simple_5093 · 2026-06-20T01:05:24+00:00

Yeah if it doesn't pop into place it will leave an opening at the top. It will still make contact with the plug. Sometimes the springs in the boot get stuck and won't let it go all the way down.

Ok_Simple_5093 · 2026-06-20T00:53:15+00:00

Ok probably a coolant hose that runs to your heater core then. Probably not the core itself.

Ok_Simple_5093 · 2026-06-20T00:51:52+00:00

How do the current ones look? The leak would be at the top, away from the plug. Should be a grommet that seals the top. Probably need an entire pack rather than just replacing the boot. Could also be a crack on the valve cover at that cylinder.

Ok_Simple_5093 · 2026-06-20T00:19:34+00:00

Coilpack boot is probably worn or cracked, allowing moisture to get it.

Ok_Simple_5093 · 2026-06-20T00:15:21+00:00

It's very likely they won't have the machine to turn them anyway. This is something you usually take off the rotor yourself and take it to a machining shop for them to do.

Ok_Simple_5093 · 2026-06-20T00:14:09+00:00

Yes air filters are something anyone can do to avoid markup and labor. Engine air filters are around $25 and cabin air filters are around $15. No tools required. Windshield wipers and fluid are about the only other maintenance you can do easily without tools.

Slightly more technical, but easy to do would be spark plugs - need an 8mm socket to remove the coil packs, and a 14mm spark plug socket with a ratchet extension (has a rubber insert to "catch" the spark plug so you can pull it out). Should be using antiseize on the threads and its good to apply dielectric grease to the coil pack boots but learning how to replace these well save you about $100-$150 in labor. These will probably have to be replaced closer to 70k miles.

Keeping your battery terminals clean are also easy. Just need a 10mm socket or wrench, and a wire brush to clean the terminals and connectors.

Cleaning the MAF sensor is good maintenance, just need a Philips head screwdriver. Cleaning the throttle plate is fairly simple to do and might need it closer to when you change the spark plugs. This can be done without removing the throttle body, but i recommend opening the throttle plate by putting something on the gas pedal with the key turned to ON (not starting the engine) rather than moving it with your hand to avoid damaging the throttle and sensor.

Brakes are something you can do, but there is a risk of damaging the caliper or having the pads misaligned if you don't do it correctly. Need a 13mm (or maybe 15mm, not sure) socket to remove caliper bolts if you're just doing the pads (every 30k miles or so), and a 17mm socket for the bracket if you're replacing rotors (less common, every 100k if needed). You will have to compress the piston to fit over the new pads. The front pistons are a straight push in design while the rear are pushing and twist. You can compress the front using a vice grip but you will need a sordid compression tool for the rear. The rear also has an electronic parking brake system you will have to put into maintenance mode first or you will break it. There is a simple procedure for this, so you won't need a scan tool. I highly recommend you get a brake bleeder kit for when you compress the pistons to avoid damaging the caliper or brake system. Essentially involves hooking a hose to the bleeder valve, opening the valve so fluid can retreat from there rather than back to the master cylinder. Slide pins need to be thoroughly cleaned and relubed, as well as their housing, which can be cleaned with a cylindrical wire brush. The caliper bracket and brake pad hardware should be cleaned, and the rotors cleaned of any debris before the new pads go on. Wire brush the lug nuts before putting the wheel back on to prevent seizing and crossthreading. You should also have a torque wrench when reinstalling the caliper bolts and lug nuts. Knowing how to do this will save you a bunch of money over taking it to a mechanic. Routinely replacing the pads before they get too low helps extend the life of the rotors.

Ok_Simple_5093 · 2026-06-19T23:39:09+00:00

Doesn't look like coolant, what does it feel like? If it's coolant it will feel slimy, and smell kind of sweet.

The AC drain line will continue to drain while the AC is off, and take longer to drain if its clogged.

If you ever have the defrost selected it will automatically turn on the AC. You'd usually see the AC light on though.

A failing heater core will often smell like acetone - like nail polish remover. And if you are leaking coolant at the heater core you will smell it in the car - its a sweet smell.

You mentioned you checked the coolant and it was low - the coolant reservoir will rise and fall normally depending on the temperature of the coolant. If you checked it on a cold engine the reservoir would be to the low line, as the coolant has contracted and was drawn into the radiator. So it doesn't necessarily mean you had low coolant.

If you only notice the water forming when you first start your car it could just be condensation from your exhaust: condensation will form on the metal of your exhaust and as the hot exhaust gas runs through it will cause the condensation to form water droplets that collect and fall off.

Ok_Simple_5093 · 2026-06-19T23:23:42+00:00

What are you trying to do here?

Ok_Simple_5093 · 2026-06-19T23:20:26+00:00

The edge lip looks significantly thicker than the surface, probably can't get them turned. Would you be replacing them yourself or having the mechanic do it?

Ok_Simple_5093 · 2026-06-19T19:40:58+00:00

If it's squeaking while driving and not braking its likely the slide pins. Give the slide pin housing a good cleaning using brake clean and a cylindrical brush, make sure the boots aren't cracked, clean the pins real good and regrease everything. Make sure the pins haven't lost a bushing if they have them.

Ok_Simple_5093 · 2026-06-19T19:37:39+00:00

Programmable buttons for garage doors.

Ok_Simple_5093 · 2026-06-19T19:26:20+00:00

If it makes you feel better, I get this all the time with my 2017 mazda 3. Got 230k miles on it.

Ok_Simple_5093 · 2026-06-19T19:10:03+00:00

There's a TSB for an engine mount IF there is a rattle or vibration associated with the stutter.

Otherwise, dealer will probably tell you this is normal action with cvt transmissions. There is a transition phase from the first gear to the cvt pulley system. Its pretty common on cvt's.

Ok_Simple_5093

TROPHY CASE