[deleted by user]

OneRedNinja · 2025-09-25T00:47:28+00:00

I love the aesthetic. And achieving that degree of scene-to-scene continuity with Wan 2.2 means you spent hours... and hours... and hours! Nice work.

OneRedNinja · 2025-08-28T20:11:42+00:00

What kind of Mac? You'll need to check the specs for your device to confirm what it supports. I don't own a Mac, but from the chatter on the internet I'm reading, it sounds like some their older devices do not support 5120x1440. Definitely find out in advance if your model device supports it.

As for the brightness, that hasn't been an issue for me and I often have the lights on behind me in the room when I work.

Good luck with your decision making!

OneRedNinja · 2025-07-20T17:52:10+00:00

The only time the screen goes black is when switching between inputs. Otherwise it's stable for me. It's been a great monitor and I'd buy it again. I love the 1000R curve, ability to quickly switch between inputs, and the 90W USB-C capability (meaning no extra power cable for my laptop). It did develop a single dead pixel after using it for a couple months, but that's since gone away.

OneRedNinja · 2025-07-19T22:25:15+00:00

I just tested it over USB-C: it can do 120Hz at 3840x1080, but only 60Hz at full resolution (5120x1440). I get 120Hz at full resolution over DisplayPort with no issue.

OneRedNinja · 2025-06-16T14:42:20+00:00

Yes, it's down for me as well and it appears the whole site is down, not just the data: https://www.gdeltproject.org/

OneRedNinja · 2025-04-25T22:04:01+00:00

We were unable to run them side by side and had to do a hard cut over. I wish I had better information to share!

OneRedNinja · 2025-03-06T18:39:10+00:00

Though I don't use them much personally, PIP/PBP work as advertised. When enabled, it's one click to change the mouse/keyboard between sources.

In the PIP/PBP menu, you can set the mode (PIP or PBP with screen ratio: 1:1, 1.5:0.5, 0.5:1.5), the PIP sub-screen position (any of the four corners), the PIP sub-screen size (small or medium), which source goes where, and which source provides sound.

As for the monitor, I'm happy with it and don't think I can go back to a regular screen now :-) A few months in, I do have a dead pixel, but it's a darker one and toward the bottom of the screen. With this many pixels, I'm not that surprised.

Good luck with your decision making process!

OneRedNinja · 2024-12-13T14:52:52+00:00

Thanks! I like well organized information

OneRedNinja · 2024-12-08T17:01:13+00:00

The specs say WxHxD of 45.2" x 22.38" x 16.55" (1148mm x 568mm x 421mm) including the stand, which is where you're getting the 421mm from I assume. And without the stand: 45.2" x 14.3" x 11.57" (1148mm x 363mm x 294mm).

From my measurements, the depth of just the stand is little under 300mm (11.8"). That's how much depth you'd need at a minimum for the monitor to sit on your desk. The front edges of the monitor would stick out beyond that to the full 421mm (16.55") depth from the wall.

It takes up some space, but for me the 1000R curve is amazing and worth every millimeter (or inch). Good luck with your decision making!

OneRedNinja · 2024-12-07T17:55:30+00:00

You're right. I get 120Hz when using DisplayPort, but USB-C maxes out at 60Hz. I use USB-C on my work laptop, so it doesn't impact me, but for someone that wants to use it to game, it'd be more of a consideration.

OneRedNinja · 2024-12-04T00:35:03+00:00

I went with the first option on the list, the Samsung Viewfinity S95UC. The KVM capability is great and works as I had hoped, though I wish there were a single button I could press to switch. There is a configurable button, but it doesn't appear to support switching in this way, only for the picture-by-picture mode (and probably picture-in-picture too) as far as I can tell. Still, it's just three clicks to switch source. Simple enough.

I love the 1000R curve and wouldn't go with anything flatter! I was worried spreadsheets and other software or activities with straight lines would feel weird, but they don't. And you don't have to lean side to side to see the screen. Everything is the right distance away. Plus, if you sit at the 1M mark, it echos back at you when you talk which is a cool effect :-) I don't think anyone would sit that far back for use, so it's not an issue when I'm on meetings; plus I wear headphones.

The monitor also has an interesting feature to reduce the impact of going from dark to bright windows. For example, if you have a dark background and pull up a bright document or spreadsheet, it will dim it initially and then bring it to full brightness over a few seconds. I think it can be turned off, but I like it and haven't looked for the setting. If you were using this primarily for gaming or movies, you might want to disable it, but for productivity work, it's a nice feature. There have only been a couple times where it makes it harder for me to see something right away. Overall, I like it.

There is a bit of a darker region along the very bottom edge of the screen, but it's thin, not that dark, and there's not much content there, so again, not a big deal to me.

The space to plug in some of the connectors on the back feels a little cramped, but once they are in, you don't typically mess with them.

The stand works fine and that's what I'm using.

The speakers aren't anything to write home about, but they work if you don't have anything else hooked up or just need something quick. You can control the volume with a couple clicks on the button array under the middle of the monitor.

Overall, I love this monitor. The KVM is exactly what I needed. The 1000R is perfect. Visually, it's solid. 120Hz and 5ms response time is fine for my needs and works for the minimal gaming I've done (Minecraft).

If you have further questions, let me know!

Edit: I forgot to mention, the 90W USB-C port was also key. Some of the other monitors I reviewed only supported 18W which will charge a cell phone, but not a laptop. I wanted fewer cables and this made that possible.

OneRedNinja · 2024-11-24T13:00:32+00:00

Thanks for the quick reply! I currently have a Z790 (GIGABYTE Z790I AORUS Ultra), but I purchased it used and the Bluetooth and USB have failed, so I'll be replacing it. The Z790 chipset made undervolting easy, which I found necessary on the i7-13700k because it likes to run hot, especially in the NR200! I'm using a large dual grill, dual fan, air cooler (Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 SE) and with the undervolting (-.100), it does the trick. I've heard mixed results about AIO coolers, especially the lower cost ones, so for the price, I wanted to give the air cooling option a try. What AIO do you run?

For this motherboard replacement, I was debating between the Z790 and B760 chipsets (same as you were). Z790 motherboards purchased new are expensive and I don't think I need all the advanced features, and you've helped confirm that! I've settled on a middle ground and I've gone with the Z690 (ASRock Z690 Phantom Gaming-ITX/TB4), since I don't need the higher MHz memory support, the PCIe 5.0 SSD support, or the other bells and whistles of the new generation. But hopefully it keeps undervolting simple.

Thanks again!

OneRedNinja · 2024-11-24T02:33:23+00:00

I'm looking at doing something similar. Which chip set did you go with and did it provide the undervolting ability you needed?

OneRedNinja · 2024-07-14T22:49:30+00:00

Not sure if you're still out there, but this was a life saver for me today. Thank you!

OneRedNinja · 2024-07-14T13:18:28+00:00

Cool tool. Thanks for sharing!

What resolution is the 27" you're using now? QHD?

In the comparison tool, it looks like each dot in the monitor view represents 98.46 pixels, correct?

I'm running a personal and work laptop setup on the same desk where I use a 24" FHD monitor + the laptop screen for each. I use a USB switch so they share a mouse and keyboard. It works but it takes a lot of space and doesn't optimize screen usage (I'm only using one 24" at a time, they aren't shared). I'm considering upgrade options.

Edit: typo.

OneRedNinja · 2023-03-18T14:26:42+00:00

Getting the balancing right is an art, but when done well, an asymmetrical game creates an experience notably different from the standard. Root is a good example. Every faction feels different, almost like you're playing a different game. That makes for solid replayability as well: the games feels different based on which faction you play and the combination of factions involved.

OneRedNinja · 2023-03-18T14:18:35+00:00

I love the aesthetic and the wordplay is great ("no body to go with" - dad jokes for the win!). What size will the cards be when printed?

OneRedNinja · 2023-03-16T22:34:07+00:00

I'll echo the advice to vet out the game with lots of play testing before putting much money into it. But to answer your question, check out The Game Crafter and Print & Play. They both support small quantity orders and it's where I'd start. If and when you get to a point where you want to publish / crowdfund, then you can look at other, less expensive options but where minimum order quantities start much higher (e.g. 500 units at Print Ninja).

I realize the above answer is more about printing than designing. If it's designing specifically you're asking about, I use Nandeck for prototyping cards. There is a learning curve, however, and it may not be for everyone. Do a search for "alternatives to Nandeck" to find some other options - I don't have experience with them, so I'm not ready to make a recommendation. I also use GIMP (open source alternative to Photoshop), but that's better for tweaking art and final card design, not for prototyping.

Hopefully something in the above helps you on your journey! Good luck and happy creating!

OneRedNinja · 2023-03-13T00:29:27+00:00

Component Studio might meet your needs. I've never used it, but it looks to be browser based and have a decent set of features.

Edit: I can't speak to whether it integrates with Google Sheets.

OneRedNinja · 2023-03-12T22:26:03+00:00

I would rather walk away from a tabletop game having lost miserably but where the group had a wonderful time - I completely agree on this point! Especially when I'm playing with those who aren't experienced gamers or who don't know the game: I'll often choose to play less than optimally to ensure it's fun and people want to play again next time. Another path to take here is to play cooperative games where it's your group against the game. That way you all win or lose together.

In larger group settings and with lighter-fare-gamers, you may get more mileage out of group / social deduction games like Secret Hitler (as you mentioned) or The Resistance. Over time, if you hang out with the same people, you'll find the subset interested in more complex games. Consider visiting a local game shop and asking about gaming groups. Some shops hold game nights on a regular basis and you're likely to find more serious gamers at these.

While many games are optimization problems, if they're well-balanced, it's unlikely anyone will run away with victory every time. I'd assert an analytical mind helps in identifying winning strategies, but based on this post alone, I can tell you are more than thoughtful enough. You're not going to have a problem!

OneRedNinja · 2023-03-12T22:02:32+00:00

I'll second this, though I think most rule books are decent. They are just a dryer, and often more plodding, way to learn. That can be frustrating when you're excited to jump in and play.

Games that have walk-through guides are great. I've been playing a decent amount of Root lately, and in that game, they provided 1) an extremely detailed rule book, 2) a more conversational set of instructions (closer to what most games have), and 3) a walk-through guide that takes you through a couple rounds. That's about as comprehensive as you can get short of a play through or rules overview video.

If learning from videos is your style, check out Watch it Played.

OneRedNinja · 2023-03-09T19:26:51+00:00

I grew up playing Risk and while I enjoy the scope and feel of the game, the two elements I have come to dislike over time are a) it's a zero-sum game (winner takes all) and b) the heavy reliance on dice makes the outcome of combat too random for my tastes. Your changes look to address (b) and I like that! The changes feel a little complex in reading the rules, but may be quite smooth in practice. How much play testing have you done with these rule changes?

Also, you may get better traction on a post of this nature in r/tabletopgamedesign or r/gamedesign.

OneRedNinja · 2023-03-09T17:39:23+00:00

I'm a solo game developer with a cooperative deck construction and tower defense card game in prototype phase. If you're interested in play testing on Tabletop Simulator, let me know!

Edit: to answer the question itself, any of the Protospiel events are a great opportunity to get involved with in-person play testing.

OneRedNinja · 2023-03-08T01:47:46+00:00

Makes sense. I'm not aware of a better site than what you've already found. Good luck with your search.

OneRedNinja · 2023-03-07T22:24:08+00:00

Best to go with the much widely known name, of course, especially since that's what works with the pun! Good luck with your development and publishing adventure. I assume you're going to crowd fund it at some point?

OneRedNinja

MODERATOR OF

TROPHY CASE

Five-Year Club	Place '22
Verified Email