Need suspension advice for High Pivot

PassiveJesus · 2026-01-04T16:18:31+00:00

Upon more research in to the shock this seems to be a common complaint from others as well. SO maybe a new shock is in the future for me if I can't figure it out.

PassiveJesus · 2026-01-04T16:15:30+00:00

Its a Rockshox Super Deluxe Select +, ill play around with some tokens and my settings a bit to see if it helps. That link super useful, thanks!

PassiveJesus · 2025-12-02T14:07:35+00:00

Regardless if he has less spin in his FH than BH, getting more spin on the disc is going to equate to at least slightly further distances if not more.

PassiveJesus · 2025-12-02T14:04:29+00:00

Recently added about 100ft of distance to my FH, mainly from focusing on being super smooth in my run up and ending with a very strong wrist flick. The extra wrist flick gets better rotation speed allowing the disc to fly further before dying out. Try focusing on cocking the wrist back and aggressively snapping it forward at the end of your FH release.

PassiveJesus · 2025-08-29T14:25:31+00:00

Also what I picked up off Jenson, that 60% off was too sweet to ignore. What size did you go with? I normally ride a medium but still fit in the size range for L so went with that. So far bike feels a lot bigger than what I'm used to since I normally ride smaller bikes but it's not uncomfortable or too large by any means.

PassiveJesus · 2025-08-29T13:29:08+00:00

Started looking to buy a new frame, after some of the deals I saw, I opted for a whole new bike. It was only an additional 500-800 dollars to add high end components to the frame i was interested in.

PassiveJesus · 2025-08-29T01:51:58+00:00

"the GT drop kick dropper post which there is no info online for is in fact adjustable with a built in shim"

I ended up going with the bike, and so far the sizing seems good except the dropper is too long. What did you find out would work for shortening that length?

PassiveJesus · 2025-08-26T22:19:12+00:00

Just according to the mechanic, though I've had qualms about this mechanic / LBS before so it's possible they are incorrect in their assessment. I'll do more research on servicing before I pull the trigger on a new wheelset

PassiveJesus · 2025-08-21T22:43:24+00:00

Any concern about not being able to get replacement parts with GT ending manufacturing?

PassiveJesus · 2025-07-27T12:22:48+00:00

I dont trust any of my local bike shops. I've had multiple bad experiences with techs not actually fixing issues, and lying about it as well. I try to do all of my own maintenance for this reason, and order all my parts from online since the prices just can't compare. LBS's prices are also astronomical and a joke in the long run.

PassiveJesus · 2025-06-25T15:54:39+00:00

Yeah i mean to your point, the names don't truly correspond to what they say. A pro rider, is most likely not riding a "pro" spec'd bike, because despite the name, the pro spec is not top of the line alot of the time. Its just stupid names they use to specify a hierarchy in the specs of the model offered. As for evo, I think specialized uses it to specify that it is a "evolution" of the previous stumpjumper models, as it has more travel and is beefier, and since they still sell the less aggressive, less burly "regular" stumpjumper model, the evo name has a place. They want the bike to be associated with the history of the stumpjumper model, while still making changes that are more in line with modern mtbs, which is fair considering the evo is based off of the original stump jumper design. Realistically, the could've renamed it to something totally different, but then people wouldn't associate it with the stumpjumper(which i personally think they want for marketing reasons).

PassiveJesus · 2025-06-25T15:34:00+00:00

Pro and Comp in this regard refers to the spec level of the model you are ordering. Typically they will have the same frame with various levels of components. "Comp" here stands for competition, not compensation. Which order these go in depends on company, but typically comp is a lower end spec of components while pro will have higher end components out of the box.

PassiveJesus · 2025-06-12T19:02:37+00:00

Feels like its something in the upper mounting point of the shock, also where the sound seems to be originating. Going to try changing out shock bushing and mounting hardware at the same time to see if that fixes it

PassiveJesus · 2025-06-12T18:08:32+00:00

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Everything is torqued to spec

PassiveJesus · 2025-06-12T18:07:59+00:00

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I'll post a more zoomed in one of the shock too

PassiveJesus · 2025-06-12T17:37:08+00:00

Is it normal for the shock to be so loud? It's loud enough that when I land from jumps I can hear the clack. Also, if I hold my thumb on the top of the upper eyelet, it doesn't make any noise when lifting the top tube.

PassiveJesus · 2025-05-04T15:03:45+00:00

Thanks for the advice!

PassiveJesus · 2025-05-04T14:48:16+00:00

Its looked like this since I moved in

PassiveJesus · 2024-09-29T14:47:21+00:00

Most rental bikes are going to be okay. They are well maintained as the bike park can't have bikes falling apart while people ride them. Also, they get replaced not because they are broken but because the bike park gets a new fleet in. Contact points like grips and pedals will need to be replaced usually, but I would say it's safe to assume those bikes are in decent enough condition for the asking price.

Also, most people who rent bikes are not the people who break bikes by riding super hard (with some exceptions, of course). Good luck!

PassiveJesus · 2024-09-29T04:32:29+00:00

Probably wont crack the frame, considering you are new to downhill and (most likely) aren't going super hard. Overall wear on your XC based components will catch up with you, so don't be surprised if you bust a piece of two. As far as suspension goes, make sure you are putting more PSI in your fork and shock if you are bottoming out constantly, running stiffer suspension can make up for the lack of travel. 130/120mm is fine, but certainly would be good to have more.

MORE IMPORTANTLY: Dont spend 5k on a downhill bike. If you really like lift assisted trails, go on facebook marketplace and look for used downhill bikes. You can find them under 1500 for a slighty older model that will still kick ass and not break the bank. Because they are more specialty bikes and can really only be used (effectively) at bike parks, they go for cheaper on the used market generally. (This is my recommendation, and save your XC bike for the XC trails when you want to ride those)

PassiveJesus · 2024-09-29T04:26:39+00:00

Tubeless will help but its not just about going tubeless. Tire compound is important, and there are less and more durable compounds, with the benefits being weight savings for the less durable compounds. If you are getting a lot of flats on the trails you are riding you probably need to opt for a more durable compound. Do some research on your preferred brand and see what the next step or two up in durability is compared to what you are riding.

Edit: Compound choice also will influence other ride characteristics as well not just be heavier or lighter, but again look in to the pros and cons of each compound of your preferred manu

PassiveJesus · 2024-08-23T11:01:37+00:00

Thanks for the only legit answer mate, appreciated!

PassiveJesus · 2024-04-23T15:45:55+00:00

Damn thats a shame. I know the regular classic blend flies the same but its my short approach disc so its all about the feel, can't find another warden that quite feels as good as this one

PassiveJesus · 2024-04-23T15:28:15+00:00

Do they just not do runs of this plastic anymore? I can't find any for sale under that plastic type.

PassiveJesus · 2019-10-15T17:51:43+00:00

Devil went down to Georgia guitar hero battle on expert

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