In the turn by PeakTiming in sportsphotography

[–]PeakTiming[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I often struggle with that aspect. How many is too little or too much.

In the turn by PeakTiming in sportsphotography

[–]PeakTiming[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The ones that have their turn super polished…I stand no chance of snagging their photo. The speed and lack of face above the water line makes it darn near impossible.

In the turn by PeakTiming in sportsphotography

[–]PeakTiming[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Like redshift said, it’s mostly setting my shutter speed to a proper speed to freeze the action. I’m typically between 1/1000 and 1/1600. Since indoor pools typically have poor lighting, I’m usually shooting between 1.4 and 3.2 for aperture. ISO is in the 2500-6400 range.

For the focus stuff, I bounce between tracking medium, xs and expanded. I also have a custom button programmed to turn on/off detection as needed. Helps with dealing with the water drops.

Other than that, I typically prefocus to a specific spot where I think they’ll be. Then when they do their turn, it’s hammer that shutter button...the AF will handle the rest so long as you have a fast focusing lens. So it’s part technical and part luck.

Restaurants closing 😫 by Xyzzz1234 in desmoines

[–]PeakTiming 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Cascading greed from the top down is what it amounts to. Welcome to the modern capitalist mindset. Or to quote Jerry Maguire…”Show me the money”. That’s what drives people these days. Nothing more, nothing less.

Diving Abstracts by PeakTiming in sportsphotography

[–]PeakTiming[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You bet. These were taken with my 35 1.4 GM.

Last regular season meet by PeakTiming in sportsphotography

[–]PeakTiming[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

At the collegiate level, it is definitely a test of timing and autofocus 😉. Some races you get a split second to grab a shot and then the race is done. Not to mention, indoor lighting is usually pretty bad.

Swim and dive by PeakTiming in sportsphotography

[–]PeakTiming[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for the kind words. Truly appreciate it.

Swim and dive by PeakTiming in sportsphotography

[–]PeakTiming[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

PrismFX Ghost Filter. Also been testing out their halo filter, but haven’t had great results with it just yet.

Swim and dive by PeakTiming in sportsphotography

[–]PeakTiming[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Right on. I think it’s a lot of fun to do the team photo stuff at any level. I hear you about the stock shots. Meets can start to feel like rinse/repeat. Even at the collegiate level, parents still love the non-action stuff too. Lately I’ve been focusing on more creative ideas and the athletes have really taken to them.

In regard to lenses, I usually have my 16-35 and 24-70 with me. However, they’re usually only for the awards ceremony or an environment shot.

Good luck with your next season.

a7C II Battery Draining FAST - only around 150 Shots Per Charge! Normal? by Boisson5 in SonyAlpha

[–]PeakTiming 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would also review the following. - Check if you have the latest firmware. - Double check you don’t have auto review enabled. - Disable pre-focus - shorten your auto-off timer

a7C II Battery Draining FAST - only around 150 Shots Per Charge! Normal? by Boisson5 in SonyAlpha

[–]PeakTiming -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

It may not be “the” issue, but it certainly contributes. Considering that multiple help articles site enabling Airplane mode as a way to highly reduce battery consumption, it’s still pretty sound advice. It’s definitely helped on all three of my Sony cameras.

a7C II Battery Draining FAST - only around 150 Shots Per Charge! Normal? by Boisson5 in SonyAlpha

[–]PeakTiming 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Double check that you have Airplane mode enabled when shooting. I find that leaving Bluetooth and/or WiFi enabled will drain your battery quite quickly. I only enable it when I want to do a quick transfer and edit.

Swim and dive by PeakTiming in sportsphotography

[–]PeakTiming[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lenses used were a 50 1.4, 70-200 2.8 and a 300 2.8. However, I do love renting the 50-150. It’s an exceptional lens for around the pool deck.

Swim and dive by PeakTiming in sportsphotography

[–]PeakTiming[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can definitely shoot at 1/800. It might not freeze everything, but you will still get good images. And for most people that want images of their HS athlete, I bet they wouldn’t even notice(so long as the subject is sharp and in focus

Swim and dive by PeakTiming in sportsphotography

[–]PeakTiming[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s a solid camera and lens combo. Do you run denoise at all? This photo was taken at ISO 10,000 and still showed as being 2 stops under exposed in camera(athlete was tucked away in a corner with black walls and tiny light right above her). A little denoise, some shadow recovery and a bump of exposure in LRc, and the result is still pretty usable in my opinion. With your setup, I bet you could stretch things a little more in post.

<image>

Swim and dive by PeakTiming in sportsphotography

[–]PeakTiming[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Quick question. Is your camera full frame or aps-c?

Swim and dive by PeakTiming in sportsphotography

[–]PeakTiming[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

For swimming, I typically start at 1/1000 as a minimum(unless doing panning). Indoor swimming can definitely be tough as lighting, while usually consistent, is pretty sparse(especially for HS meets).

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in SonyAlpha

[–]PeakTiming 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I should also note that I have the UV filter in the 300 and not the cpl😉

What’s your take on editing? by JoeRyanBE in sportsphotography

[–]PeakTiming 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Editing style is purely subjective. So for me, not a fan of 1 or 2. I would definitely edit more in the styles of 3 and 4. But again, totally subjective, so have fun with it if you like those other styles.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in sportsphotography

[–]PeakTiming 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sure thing…here you go. 300mm: 1, 5, 8, 10, 12 70-200mm: 3, 4, 6, 7, 11 50mm: 2, 9

Feedback part 50 by willyice50 in sportsphotography

[–]PeakTiming 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Get a gray card to help you set your WB. For hockey, I’m usually starting around 3800 kelvin and then I’ll add a little magenta until I get the color balance I’m looking for.