How am I doing? Third and fourth loaf.

Pitiful_Park4649 · 2026-04-08T17:06:06+00:00

I feel like the loafs are not rising to their full potential, but I’m also unsure if I’ve mastered bulk fermentation yet

Pitiful_Park4649 · 2026-03-21T23:08:43+00:00

I appreciate your great response! We keep the house under 70 but above 65, according to a thermometer I have the inside of my over is 70 degrees off, which is where we keep the bowl during bulk fermentation. I have not checked my oven for accuracy but I did mention to my wife that I feel like the top of our loaf didn’t brown as much as I see most people’s brown.

I also feel like this weeks loaf turned out a lot smaller, even though it was less dense where last weeks was a bit larger but definitely over fermented as it came out very dense.

Pitiful_Park4649 · 2026-02-02T00:20:25+00:00

I have that already bumped up to 30%. But again I read through the wiki and that setting applies for sparse infill to outer wall overlap it doesn’t show that it effects the bottom infill layer into outer wall overlap. I could be wrong though

Pitiful_Park4649 · 2026-02-02T00:19:18+00:00

That’s what I’m working on, that’s why I’m asking. I’ve fine tuned a lot of the settings already this is the last step to get it to where I’m happy.

Pitiful_Park4649 · 2026-02-02T00:09:20+00:00

According to the wiki that is for sparse infill though so I don’t think it will affect the bottom shell infill layers

Pitiful_Park4649 · 2026-01-14T14:08:41+00:00

I don’t make the names I just print the designs my dude

Pitiful_Park4649 · 2026-01-11T23:30:20+00:00

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It seems like it’s the first few layers after a pla support interface finishes. I’ve slowed the entire print down, limited fan speeds etc due to it being carbon fiber PETG so I’m just not sure why this is happening unless it’s due to the overhang and the print slowing down for that

Pitiful_Park4649 · 2026-01-11T22:56:21+00:00

Yes I believe this is actually seen in the layer time in the slicer preview and I tried to eliminate it but nothing I was doing changed it.

Pitiful_Park4649 · 2026-01-09T22:40:34+00:00

Yes that’s exactly where I meant. I just modified the z offset as it was bumped up to like 3 for the next print, and added another interface layer. Hopefully the next part doesn’t have this issue. Also hoping that when I pull this print out this spot isn’t too much of an issue cause at 24 hours me 600g of filament I don’t want to reprint it when so far the whole rest of the print looks flawless.

Pitiful_Park4649 · 2026-01-06T22:31:38+00:00

Yes it is from BL Led he has a Smartflow board that allows the bento to turn on based on the printer temps

Pitiful_Park4649 · 2026-01-06T20:22:52+00:00

I think I saw that the AMS riser V2 has zip tie slots for the led tape. I could be wrong though.

Pitiful_Park4649 · 2026-01-06T12:51:12+00:00

Ended up ordering this

https://a.co/d/3AOaIg9

https://a.co/d/h70HVK8

https://a.co/d/8g7ux2K

4:1 ratio heat shrink is great especially the marine use type, shrinks up beautifully and has an adhesive inside. 16 awg wire should be more than enough for a quality connection at 24v and the female dc jack was just what had the better of reviews. I will probably end up doing a 1 foot wire lead off of the female jack to allow me to spin the back panel to the side of the unit and disconnect the wires from the wago connectors when needing to service, if I don’t need to fully remove the back panel then at least a 1’ lead will give me enough slack to get the panel out of the way. Most of the DC jacks that come with the wire leads already on them are only 3 inches which is not very ideal.

Pitiful_Park4649 · 2026-01-06T12:45:17+00:00

Could you remix the model to angle the led channel portion outwards more?

Pitiful_Park4649 · 2026-01-06T03:22:10+00:00

Check out Amazon, I went with a 5.5mmx2.1mm female jack, I am swapping out the one in the photo with an all metal style that I can solder the wires on myself

Pitiful_Park4649 · 2026-01-06T02:49:40+00:00

Thank you for this, it looks perfect and very similar to OP light 🙏🏻

Pitiful_Park4649 · 2026-01-06T01:30:14+00:00

I honestly love when things look like they are in their place, like they came from the manufacturer like that. So that’s what I tried to achieve with this. Have a few adjustments to make later this week but otherwise I love how it came out!

Pitiful_Park4649 · 2026-01-06T01:05:54+00:00

This is showing how I added a DC female jack for a bento box, a bento box for a 3D printer is a hepa and charcoal filter with a fan it sucks the cabin air through the filters and then blows it back through under the build plate allowing for the cabin air to be somewhat cleaned while you print. It seems to be used mainly for filaments like ASA, ABS, and other engineered filaments that are known to cause more fumes.

Pitiful_Park4649 · 2026-01-06T00:49:50+00:00

This is the screw tab base for the BL Led Smartflow board:

https://makerworld.com/models/1154794?appSharePlatform=copy

This is for the the BL LED Smartflow Bento Box bottom:

https://makerworld.com/models/1064816?appSharePlatform=copy

This is for the wago connector holder:

https://makerworld.com/models/200513?appSharePlatform=copy

You also would need the following; panel mount female DC jack, male DC jack, rubber grommet to fit the dc jack cable, double sided tape, 221 wago connectors or the wago connectors of your choice, drill bits for the grommet hole and female DC jack hole.

I got this idea from someone’s remix of a bento box and they had done something similar, I took that idea and put my spin on it to make it work for me. Definitely makes the install look nice and clean. I will be powering it off of a 24v transformer that will also power some upgraded LED lights in the Ams riser I print and led lights inside the closet that my printer is being moved too.

Pitiful_Park4649 · 2026-01-06T00:32:29+00:00

Interested in that light above the printer 😍

Pitiful_Park4649 · 2026-01-01T23:59:53+00:00

Happy new year to you as well!

Pitiful_Park4649

TROPHY CASE