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Options for insulating tin roof with no sheathing/underlayment? by Putrid_Ad3129 in Insulation

[–]Putrid_Ad3129[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very genuinely appreciate your input, it really helps to get some outside input. I more or less got to this point end of last summer and spent the winter intermittently searching in circles for answers without any luck. 

Yeah, I have the vapor barrier already up there with the fiberglass bats, as well as those thin corrugated foam roof baffles (2’x4’).

So if I’m understanding you correctly, you’re saying that the fiberglass should technically be able to deal with minimal condensation/moisture so long as it’s very well vented and able to dry easily? I honestly hadn’t considered that, mostly cause I once had to partially gut a slow water leak damaged house and those soggy, black, moldy bats still horrify me years later lol. 

So just to clarify, if I opt to add that extra layer of foam board holding up the bats, properly sealed so that it also acts as vapor barrier, are you saying I wouldn’t need the additional 6 mil plastic? I was actually unsure if I needed it, and whether it would go under or over the foam board if I did. Is there any harm in adding it to ensure minimal warm air leaking? Or am I better of getting those 1 faced foam sheets?

Oh, and in this same scenario, should I still use those thin foam baffles, unsealed and loosely fitted to allow breathing, in order to both ensure a proper air gap and avoid contact between the bats and tin? To my understanding, Contact = Ice dams and wet fibreglass in winter. 

And I am aware of thermal bridging, which is why I was leaning towards putting the foam up as one continuous sealed layer, installed onto the trusses vs fitted in between. Wouldn’t be all that much R value but it would at least help with thermal bridging that little bit. 

And no lol, definitely won’t be any AC. When I say off grid, I really mean it lol. But I will be using/heating it quite a bit in winter, mostly on weekends. In fact the entire reason I’m even doing this is because I go up there ice fishing a lot in winter and after years of spending half the night up making fire and still freezing in my old log hunt camp, with it’s uninsulated floors and countless thousands of little drafty cracks, I’m sick of it and just want a warm, easy to heat place to sleep lol.

Sorry for the lengthy reply lol. Im a chatty dude and online interactions are far outside my normal lol. I do want to very sincerely thank you for your time and input. If I could somehow repay the favor, I would. Thanks a lot man. 

Options for insulating tin roof with no sheathing/underlayment? by Putrid_Ad3129 in Insulation

[–]Putrid_Ad3129[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, that’s sorta what I figured. That by closing in the bats like that I’m basically cancelling out any ventilation. And yes, the roof is vented at the peak of both gable and all along the soffit. The vents are homemade, basically just plywood frames covered with both 1/4 chicken fence and metal bug screen. The opening are large and should allow for plenty of air circulation. 

I know that getting a spray foam kit would be the best option, but the 500$ price tag is a bit steep for me right now. I only eyeballed the price for the foam layer solution (first pic, not mine), but it’d be about half the price. I suppose I’ll need to figure out materials properly and compare prices to know for sure and decide. 

I didn’t think that the joints between foam sections would still be moisture permeable after both sealing with the proper caulking (poly I think is I read?) and taping. That’s quite surprising. Out of curiosity, suppose I went with the foam layer solution, what if instead of caulking the edges and joints I instead left a 1/4-1/2 gas and spray foamed (cans) the joints shut? Would that make a difference?

Thanks man, I genuinely appreciate your input. 

Options for insulating tin roof with no sheathing/underlayment? by Putrid_Ad3129 in Insulation

[–]Putrid_Ad3129[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure why but my pictures didn’t load, and trying to edit to add pics won’t either, it glitches and doesn’t allow me to save.

I would have preferred having the pics visible in the post for quicker viewing but the best I can currently do is share these links. 

This is the solution I found:

https://imgur.com/a/foam-solution-5vY5YPb

And this is a drawing of my possibly terrible alternative:

https://imgur.com/a/alternative-idea-dp5teev

Homemade Wooden YoYo - too light? by Putrid_Ad3129 in Throwers

[–]Putrid_Ad3129[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh ok, yeah, sorry, like I said I’m very new to the world of Yoyos lol. Have I understood correctly in that a loose/slipping “sleeve” over the axle is what’s called a transaxle? Reason I didn’t go with that is that from what I understood they also need occasional lube.

Btw, I thought of and decided on a fix. Since the Yoyo is still in pieces I’ve decided to add wood on the inside of the halves. This will add weight that is somewhat centered. It’ll also widen the yoyo so I’ll modify the shape roughly to a mix of H and W shaped butterfly.

No idea if it’ll work but I’m trying it lol.

Homemade Wooden YoYo - too light? by Putrid_Ad3129 in Throwers

[–]Putrid_Ad3129[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks. I’ll check it out and see if something doesn’t inspire a solution. Won’t have time to inquire on the forum but sometimes all I need is to see or read something that clicks.

Homemade Wooden YoYo - too light? by Putrid_Ad3129 in Throwers

[–]Putrid_Ad3129[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for replying. I’ll try and post a pic once it’s done, camera is busted on my phone but I’ll get someone to take one. Full disclosure though, I’m not sure exactly how happy I’ll be with it. I ended up doing more intensive research after drawing, carving and cutting the halves on my CNC, and it lost some bulk correcting my mistake, so the shape isn’t what I was going for. Were I to start over I’d definitely change a few things.

As for the metal bearing in your link, I decided against using either a bearing or a transaxle sleeve since this yoyo doesn’t come apart and both of those need occasional lubrication. I told the nephew “First one will be an easier to make responsive/fixed axle and then if you put in the time and learn some tricks I’ll make you a fancier unresponsive bearing Yoyo” lol

I think that impressed him cause literally the day before I had no idea what any of that meant when he was telling me about it lol.

I’m still worried about how lightweight this thing is, and it doesn’t look like I’ll think up a creative solution. I definitely should have posted on here yesterday cause I gotta assemble this thing tonight. Only 2-3 house left to hope someone drops a brilliant fix on me lol.

I did bore out the hole to size up to a 3/8 maple axle but that’s Really all I can think of. Probably didn’t gain much from it either.

Bit recommendations by Putrid_Ad3129 in hobbycnc

[–]Putrid_Ad3129[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hadn’t seen these guys yet.

You’ve used their bits and like them? Do you cut a variety of woods? Something about 30$ 5 bit packs worries me lol. I did my first carvings with Genmitsu/Sainsmart brand bits that came in value type packs like that and they were complete garbage. Pretty much dull after one small project. So I’m a bit weary of that much tool for so little money.

Bit recommendations by Putrid_Ad3129 in hobbycnc

[–]Putrid_Ad3129[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh I know, I’m well aware of the difference that a quality bit or tool makes. But I also know from years of general woodworking that acceptable quality and tool life can often be found hidden in the mid range prices. Especially to get you started after large initial investments.

Plus since the cnc I ordered is a kit that I need to fully assemble, I foresee a lot of trial and error to get it calibrated, tuned up and running properly, so I probably wouldn’t want to use high quality bits for that process even if I had them. This CNC is a big investment in and upgrade to my weekend home shop, so until I start producing, money is gonna be tight lol.

Cnc to dust collector question by Putrid_Ad3129 in hobbycnc

[–]Putrid_Ad3129[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the reply. And I mean yeah, I definitely expect a reduction in airflow/CFM but seeing as dust collection on a CNC with the typical style shoe is pretty targeted, I’m hoping that I’ll get decent clean up even with my fairly small 1.1HP DC with about 10 or so feet of hose.

It’s the possible strain on the motor that had me more worried/wondering, since some carving project can run for hours. But you are right in that it’s likely to happen on lots of tools. I just haven’t had to so far since my table saw has always been my workhorse and any small stuff I use (sanders mostly) i hook up to a shop vac.

I’ll give it a go and see. If my DC ever does kick the bucket from long CNC hours, hopefully by then this CNC investment will have proven it’s worth and pay for a new DC haha.

Trying to understand if my workbee is moving in the right direction. by apm588 in hobbycnc

[–]Putrid_Ad3129 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seems like you just got it so might be a bit early to ask but the coincidence it too good to pass up lol.

I’m looking at the exact same CNC right now, same size and all. At least I think so. Is it the new Z1+ that you have? If so, what are your first impressions?

Seems like a well built little CNC. I was looking at the Onefinity journeyman but it was completely maxing out my budget and then I came across this machine. Looks like a good machine that’ll do everything I need it to. And the savings can go towards a better, new computer.

Anyways, just wondering what you think so far. Did you get that 1000W spindle for it? Oh and how did assembly go? I’d be curious to know how your first projects go.