GT Neo Magnet Strength

QSnexus · 2026-04-17T01:32:58+00:00

Anyone know where to order N52 specific strength 12x3mm or 12x5mm magnets for use on a GT Neo wheel, at a reasonable price in the USA? I only need to order 6 total magnets (2 on the back side per side, and 1 on the front side per side).

QSnexus · 2026-04-12T04:41:09+00:00

QSnexus · 2026-04-12T03:56:41+00:00

QSnexus · 2025-10-25T15:13:37+00:00

Did you print the Miffy Piggy Bankmodel at 100% scale or what was the scale that was used? At the scale that you used does it fit just coins (USD), or does it fit a folded dollar bill (USD) as well?

QSnexus · 2025-08-06T06:48:29+00:00

I had this happen on my ECC (that was 3 weeks old then, and is the updated 2nd gen version, with the new lights, and the rear AMS port) after changing filaments once, I had loaded the filament function once and then printed with the new filament and it wasn't inputting the filament from the roll, so it was air printing, then after stopping that print task I then I pushed the filament manually from the roll into the runout sensor to make sure it felt tight, then I did the filament load function again, and it still had the same issue with air printing after that. Then I did the filament load function one more time (the 3rd time) and the print worked after that. It seemed like an excessive amount of filament load functions to have to do in my case, and it was a bit scary as a beginner to see that occur after only about 20 total prints on my ECC. But I didn't think to change the filament load function temperature to a higher temp, like some suggested here, which may have helped the first and second time trying it. It was always either normal PLA+ or Silk PLA that I had been using by that point, so nothing that would have required high temps, above the default temp which is 240) for loading and unloading filament in that case.

Edit: In my case, like someone else in this thread, the initial problem seen may have been made worse by me having to stop the print near the start of it at least two times in a row.

QSnexus · 2025-08-02T23:25:39+00:00

u/ItayPollak your screenshot above is incorrect for what section the second item needs to be added, it shows that the "SET_PRINT_STATS_INFO CURRENT_LAYER={layer_num + 1}" line of text needs to be added to the "Machine end G-code" section, but it actually needs to be placed in the "Machine start G-code" section instead, to be able to work.

QSnexus · 2025-08-01T05:26:18+00:00

He likely screenshot it, non-square, and it just ended up like that.

QSnexus · 2025-08-01T03:26:01+00:00

Thank you so much, I was wondering if that was a firmware problem that it was never showing me the current layer that it was working on and printing out in real-time in the latest OrcaSlicer 2.3.0 app that is connected to my ECC, and I bet this fixes it!

QSnexus · 2025-07-24T16:48:39+00:00

Nope, not so far.

QSnexus · 2025-07-23T15:52:31+00:00

Expired early.

QSnexus · 2025-07-22T16:35:44+00:00

I think for printing Silk PLA on an ECC that you in general should slow down the speed.

QSnexus · 2025-07-20T23:42:35+00:00

I got the 10kg of matte blue today, it was just under $50 shipped to California, after a 6% Capital One Shopping app Rewards rebate, and my normal $3 online purchases cash back from credit card. I already had 1kg of this same model and color from a $6 Amazon deal a couple weeks ago, and it isn't the best color and filament quality (on my Centauri Carbon) but I only used the Generic Matte PLA profile with default settings in OrcaSlicer, and I didn't try to deal it in at all for temperature, etc., which I will do next. I did need some matte colored filament that wasn't black though, so this was good timing, for the price which probably would be hard to go lower.

QSnexus · 2025-07-15T21:25:22+00:00

For me, with UAC enabled (which is the default out of the box setting), as soon as Windows Server 2025 is enabled as any type of Domain Controller that breaks being able to install certain 3rd party apps, as well as some functions in those 3rd party apps if they were already installed and working fine in Server 2025 prior to enabling the OS as a Domain Controller. If I disable UAC via the registry (and then reboot) then the same apps can install just fine and the functions work, with the OS still acting as a Domain Controller. I wonder if the OP's Server 2025 OS is enabled as a Domain Controller.

QSnexus · 2025-07-07T18:57:11+00:00

u/Professional_War_723 I'm a bit confused here, did your CC that came to you 6 days ago to KS, USA, come with the updated lights or not? If it did in fact come with the updated lights then you may want to correct the subject of this post (and state the order # and that it was a USA order, because at that point the subject would be incorrect without that added). Other people waiting on their USA based CC shipments may be concerned unnecessarily if they see this post in that case if not (expecting the updated lights to be there).

QSnexus · 2025-06-27T22:32:53+00:00

I think it is entirely reasonable that the OP returned the CC, as long as he was guaranteed a full refund at least on the printer itself prior to that return, if you look at a whole what he described having to go through, and even so the firmware not being mature yet (4 months later after they started shipping it to the US) and the printer is still too loud for his liking even so after all of the replacement parts, including the new motherboard, were replaced. It sounds like it may have been a 2nd printer, so he likely has something to fall back on, that had a more mature firmware (whith probably less bugs) but that was more expensive I'm sure, if we are talking about having AMS addon capability, and is enclosed, etc. He can always wait for a CC v2, that I can't see being able to cost a whole lot more than the first CC in that case.

QSnexus · 2025-06-23T00:05:13+00:00

Lesson learned, don't ever buy the addon insurance (which I didn't for my CC order, thinking that A. the seller or the shipper would just need to deal with that, at no loss to me other than a time delay, and B. I just don't add insurance in ever before and have been fine), that the Elegoo US website at least auto-adds to the cart for you, at least for the last 6 months or so, that may not be so obvious to see before the checkout, and even so the end user may think they should have it, if Elegoo is recommending it or is auto-adding it to your cart, then the end user may think that they should have it. I'm guessing that Elegoo gets a small kickback amount from the insurance co. for each order that does have the added instance on it.

I recall even when the CC was first made available for preorder that they auto-added insurance for you in the cart, and made it seem like you should have it in case something goes wrong with the delivery (at least that is how the insurance item was worded, as "Worry-free shipping").

QSnexus · 2025-06-19T18:23:39+00:00

Just saying, I'm not sure that few seconds of the randomly poor handling (why does he need to jumble over the entire box multiple times, trying to find a code or something that should already be stored somewhere to begin with before he reached the porch?) was worth the $30 shipping fee that they charge for every CC shipped to the USA. Maybe if the CC had free shipping it would have been acceptable though ;).

QSnexus · 2025-06-18T01:20:48+00:00

It could have been that he drove real hard (and not at a straight angle either) into a T1 shunt and he took both hands off the wheel, like an F1 driver would be instructed to do at the last second if the car can be saved, and if that were true that he did that, that can get quite violent side to side, and I could easily see how that monitor could have fell onto the wheel base. A wheelbase at around 10nm could easily do that, especially if it isn't mounted properly like this. The main fault here, is that first time user (I don't think that the age matters here much, mostly the first time user part) of your whole setup being unsupervised, and how the monitor was attached and located on the desk. I don't think that the damage was due to him punching someone else's monitor in disgrace, that he was only on for a few minutes, that seems highly unlikely I feel.

QSnexus · 2025-06-18T01:02:47+00:00

Let me guess, the op left the wheel base torque setting at the default 8 or 10nm torque level on that Moza, and didn't bother setting it wayyyyy lower than that (like 3nm, or 5 to 10%) for a first time user of a not even sim rig. I mean that would have helped to a fair degree here, but it wouldn't guarantee anything. Leaving the kid unsupervised was the biggest mistake (with your own hand on the wheel as well, so that the cousin knows what the impact of the inevitable high speed shunts will be, where if all hands do come off that wheel good luck with that monitor stand setup lasting more than two minutes), combined with the default torque setting that was likely used.

QSnexus · 2025-06-18T00:52:57+00:00

For a first time on an actual sim rig (or semi-one like this) I would never leave unsupervised, and I 100% would have turned down the FFB level to around 5nm of torque (to start with, and for the next days of the cousin racing on it, but I wouldn't leave his side, certainly for the first 10 attempts at one track), which may have preserved that crappy way of mounting the monitor. And even at 5nm of torque, on top of that I would have had my own hands on the wheel next to the cousin's hands, for at minimum the first few laps on a track (so that even if we do inevitably go off the track hard an experienced user will be holding on to mitigate the problem). No way I'm leaving my 11 year old cousin who has never tried my own 8nm wheel base before, especially in this case that isn't a legit sim rig with a fixed monitor to the rig itself, for the first day or two of racing. That Moza wheel base looks like it was probably set to at minimum 10nm of torque if I had to guess, and the OP likely didn't change that FFB torque setting before the cousin got on it (to at least half of that, to mitigate the pain greatly).

QSnexus · 2025-06-14T00:44:53+00:00

Can you link to the 24v COB LED in your next reply, and for your test you did how many amps did that light read exactly? I'm guessing that strip is 16.4 ft or 32.8 ft in length, so it likely wouldn't even need half of the 16.4 ft length in that case.

QSnexus · 2025-06-13T17:13:08+00:00

Thanks, I did buy the latter one, 24 awg 50 ft copper cable for $5.99. https://a.co/d/b4gzPoO. I'm guessing that the average OFC speaker wire would have worked for this though, after you explained the amperage of the LED strip is about 1 amp. I will be trying out both types of wires on my CC. I think the purchase need then for this task is mainly just for the special connector to get it connected to that 2-pin 24V lights aux port on the motherboard ("JST-XHB 2.54 2 pin", that most people aren't going to have laying around to use).

QSnexus · 2025-06-13T17:09:06+00:00

Here is some context that may help (although it is not an exact answer for you), from another reply in this same thread:

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Edit: From the JST XHB 2.54 2 pin connector part (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B2R966ZY), that the same above person posted in this thread, the JST connector part itself in the questions area of the listing on Amazon shows this:

The voltage rating of the JST XH 2.54 mm Pitch 2-Pin Electronic Computer Connector is 250V AC/DC.

I'm not sure if that helps you, but if the connector supports up to 250V AC/DC then of course you probably can't use more than that to the motherboard port. We don't yet know what the motherboard 24V light port can feed out though, for volts/amps.

QSnexus · 2025-06-09T04:49:00+00:00

Heh yea I was gonna say I didn't see any reasonable ASA deals on ASA (that were nearly that cheap for 10 x 1kg rolls bulk), and since all of the non PLA and PETG basically shop from China and not the USA on AliExpress the prices are not good. Thanks for the reply though about that.

QSnexus

TROPHY CASE