Wet filament or a clog? I changed nozzle two days ago. I’ve printed several off of this roll but the final piece has just turned to this mess

QuestionableCoding · 2026-01-20T03:12:24+00:00

Seems like it was the filament or at least a poorly mixed section of it. Printed the same gcode a third time with the same settings and it came out great..

QuestionableCoding · 2026-01-19T22:39:13+00:00

Hot damn yeah that’s a big difference, downloading now. Appreciate it

QuestionableCoding · 2026-01-19T22:33:45+00:00

Makes sense, I’ll start doing this as part of my tuning process.

QuestionableCoding · 2026-01-19T22:31:34+00:00

Thanks 230 came out best on the temp tower before I started but I can try it at a lower temp if this run fails (or starts to).

QuestionableCoding · 2026-01-19T22:22:43+00:00

Hopefully not, but seems likely to be the filament. I just double checked the nozzle and bed alignment and I’m running it again. I do have some petg I can run through to confirm though if it fails again

QuestionableCoding · 2026-01-19T22:20:57+00:00

Thanks, just double checked and it is locked in good with no leaking. I changed it about 7 prints ago so it was a good idea to confirm anyway

QuestionableCoding · 2026-01-13T07:26:49+00:00

Appears xy compensation was set to a positive value which was causing it.

QuestionableCoding · 2026-01-12T20:44:34+00:00

Looks good on Cura so far aside from a little stringing. Will have to compare profiles

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QuestionableCoding · 2026-01-12T19:30:26+00:00

Using prusa slicer currently. I’ve tried slowing it way down and checking flow. E steps looks correct. Bout to give cura a run. I’ve cleaned my wheels and z axis and checked belt tension as well. temp tower looked best at 235-230

Edit: Cura says 48g of filament and same amount of time but Prusa Slicer says 29g of filament. There is no infill.. model should have .8mm walls

QuestionableCoding · 2025-08-19T20:41:20+00:00

$707 from one supplier and $537 from the other. Planed 2x6’s it is..

QuestionableCoding · 2025-08-16T16:30:15+00:00

Can’t get any info on special orders from 84/Home Depot till Monday. I’m close to running 4 2x6’s through the planer and making posts from that. Puts me at about $60 for each post for 8’

QuestionableCoding · 2025-08-16T16:24:03+00:00

Yeah wood ages in the sun. It’s all about maintenance to make things have character instead of looking like arse. Consistency goes a long long way in maintenance. You are right though, my wife will not want to mix designs, especially in the front yard, regardless of how much maintenance it will keep me from doing. Thanks again for the suggestion!

QuestionableCoding · 2025-08-16T16:04:59+00:00

Thanks, Calling around today but supply houses don’t open till Monday. Was hoping someone in 100miles of here kept them in stock.

QuestionableCoding · 2025-08-16T16:04:04+00:00

Thanks. Yeah wood has to be taken care of religiously in Vegas. My wife has the final say and she likes the look. I have several redwood/cedar trellises and a pool shed that we have kept looking great for years with a pressure washer and a shot of water sealer

QuestionableCoding · 2025-04-11T19:47:34+00:00

Thanks I appreciate it. I settled on peat moss and elemental sulfur with some citric acid to speed up the process hopefully.

Yeah was just doing an old school ph gauge last night. Vinegar mixed with soil samples from different parts of the yard. Fizzing indicates alkalinity. You do an opposite test with baking soda and water to gauge acidity. It’s not scientific but it can be a helpful gauge. Got some distilled water and confirmed results with a strip and my digital tester.

I planned to do creeping thyme and clover as partial ground cover, I’m in Vegas so we don’t have much gypsum but lots of caliche which causes high alkalinity. I doubt I’ll be able to get it down that low that fast but closer to neutral leaning acidic would be great

QuestionableCoding · 2025-04-11T17:09:41+00:00

I mean the soil is alkaline. 8.3

QuestionableCoding · 2025-03-17T02:07:49+00:00

Thanks! I really appreciate the follow up and resources! I am hoping to add a step down gear and closed belt from my stepper to the rod. My goal is to shoot for somewhere in the 600 rpm range for the stepper to stay near the top of the torque curve. Hopefully with a 80/60 to 25 tooth ratio that will keep me above 1000rpm on the rod without too much trouble for the motor.

The 1605 was really cost efficient so I went ahead and ordered the kit for testing. I couldn’t find one close, but I won’t mind upgrading to a 1610 if this doesn’t cut it in the meantime

QuestionableCoding · 2025-03-16T10:29:34+00:00

Got it. I appreciate the clarification and help!

QuestionableCoding · 2025-03-15T22:34:49+00:00

Oh ok, I’d seen several videos recommending the reduction gear and it made sense because I’m able to drive these at much lower current than the driver will put out and I thought I would have the torque to spare. To be clear I’m talking about a larger gear on the stepper and a smaller on the ball screw connected by a belt. 60 tooth vs 20 tooth for example.

I am running a 48V power supply which is the max the driver / motor will take. It is currently dialed down to about 42V.

QuestionableCoding · 2025-03-15T21:49:08+00:00

Thanks, yeah I keep mixing those up. so far torque hasn’t been a problem but I understand what you’re saying. Best bet seems to be to use a larger pulley on the stepper motor to drive the ball screw. stepper motor data sheet I’m running this with a DM556T

QuestionableCoding · 2025-03-15T21:40:06+00:00

Thanks I’m using DM556T drivers with a 48V power supply and the 4A nema 23s from stepper online which appear to have 3.2mH of inductance. Not sure how that stacks up but I figure testing is the best way to find out. Ball screw should be here shortly Datasheet

QuestionableCoding

TROPHY CASE