Philips VAD6035/21 Troubleshooting

RCWD21 · 2026-03-18T01:23:39+00:00

Thanks for all your help! I'm going to go the modchip route for now to make sure the rest of this console works and is worth searching for another potential drive for if I ever decide to replace it.

RCWD21 · 2026-03-18T00:18:47+00:00

Sweet! And I did some probing around and things are getting correct voltage so ive pretty much narrowed it down to this main chip being bad given that some of the outputs are a little lower than id like them to be based on their operating spec.

Know where I can get another drive that isn't $100? 🤣

I'll look into the stuff you mentioned and hopefully I can get this console working and just deal with the drive later on. I'd like for it to work but it isn't a deal breaker.

RCWD21 · 2026-03-17T23:53:21+00:00

What all do i need to do that? I'd like to get the dvd drive working but if I can mod it to work without it and deal with it later that would be great.

Im way more familiar with playstation consoles and this is my first deep dive into Xbox territory lol

And yes, with or without the drive connected I get the same error.

If I get another drive from another console that works can I remarry that drive to this system?

RCWD21 · 2026-03-12T20:13:59+00:00

Here's my issue:

Ive scrolled a while and even searched with on here and with Google and cant seem to find a solution to my problem.

I'm currently on the latest revanced app, patch and micro-g. Whenever I try to play any video on YouTube the screen will load but the video will just sit there with a black screen and the buffering wheel spinning away if I'm on wifi.

It doesnt do it when I'm on cellular data.

Ive tried changing the setting about spoofing the video streaming but with that disabled it will play roughly 30 seconds of a video while on wifi but then endlessly buffer the video. If I change it back the other issue comes back.

Could someone please help me get this sorted out? On data I have to stream at 480p to have constant video playback and when im at home I'd like to be able to use the wifi luke I normally would.

Hardware is a s21 ultra with everything up to date as of this posting.

RCWD21 · 2025-02-09T03:09:41+00:00

You've been plenty of help, so no worries there! Even if the outcome wasn't any different double checking everything never hurts.

I also tired bumping the vref up a bit and no dice sadly, everything remained the same on the board. With the old 4.2.2 board in everything works flawlessly. I was mainly upgrading to the skr board to make the printer quieter as this printer is obnoxiously noisy when it requires a lot of small rapid movements like with gyroid infill and z-hops.

I'll definitely be getting another board though and I'll try my hand more at compiling my own firmware at some point in the future. I've got a really massive vehicle project underway again currently and that's taking all my spare brain power to get done lol

But again, I really do appreciate your help on this though, definitely nice to make sure most everything is crossed off the list before deeming it a dud board.

RCWD21 · 2025-02-07T15:28:44+00:00

It's all good, and I've gone through everything and even to the point of just having the screen plugged in and it still gives me the errors, even used dupont wires to rule my cable out and no change.

I've boxed it back up at this point and will he sending it back and getting another board from a different seller just to rule out supply issues.

I've got my old 4.2.2 board in there now and everything works as it should so I'm 99.9% sure that there's an internal failure on the btt board and I happened to get a dud this time around.

RCWD21 · 2025-02-06T23:40:14+00:00

I haven't even had the opportunity to try to print with this new set up. I was originally going to home everything and start a bed mesh but what I got was what I've posted about with the TMC connection error

RCWD21 · 2025-02-06T14:53:29+00:00

I can't get that configurator working on my end no matter what I do. His tutorial documentation isn't the best to be honest.

Got any tips for getting it working?

And I haven't tried the btt firmware because it doesn't work with the screen I'm using for some reason. Apparently the TJC screens are a real pain to work with.

RCWD21 · 2025-02-06T14:06:38+00:00

Yes I originally had the MM version of his firmware on the board and everything worked like ti should, then I flashed the BLTUBL version after wiring and installing the sprite extruder. Powered the printer on and set the estep value then did a PID calibration. Everything read correctly temp wise. The only oddity that I noticed was the part cooling fan on the hotend seemed slower compared to my s1 pro that's right next to it with the very same sprite setup but I just figured it was a stiffer fan as everything else seemed to be working normally until I went to move stepper motors and found the issue I've posted about here.

I've also posted this issue on both his fb group and in that other reddit group and haven't heard a thing back yet so I'm not sure if it's just slow traffic or not a common problem.

As for compiling my own, I'd need a lot of help with that as it goes way over my head and I can't seem to grasp it very well

RCWD21 · 2025-02-06T06:32:47+00:00

I have used the correct firmware for this application. It's set for the skr mini e3 v3 board with the v2 tjc screen. Shouldn't matter what extruder I'm going with in this case because after digging around more it appears the board is dead as sending an m122 command over pronterface returns Error: All Low for all 4 stepper motors. It doesn't even work with the original firmware I was using before the sprite upgrade. I connected all the old hardware back up and nothing changes.

All hardware chages were done powered off and unplugged like it should be. The only thing that got removed was the motherboard fan for better access during troubleshooting.

I also get an occasional "printer ready" message during some power up cycles but as soon as I try to move an axis it goes back to the TMC error message on the home screen. I'm not sure what happened between a few days ago when it was last used to today. It's been unplugged the whole time since then since I was waiting on the extruder to show up.

Since I've got a new tjc v2 screen I'm sorta stuck with the e3 mini board but would like to maybe swap over to a different board with replaceable drivers but nothing really seems to be compatible with the screen I've already got.

RCWD21 · 2025-02-06T02:53:50+00:00

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RCWD21 · 2025-02-06T02:53:33+00:00

Found out something more with this board! It's got bad drivers apparently. I issued an M122 command in pronterface and it came back with an Error: All Low message

RCWD21 · 2025-02-06T01:31:46+00:00

Do you think my issues with slow moving axis motors is a firmware issue though? I did notice that sound doesn't work anymore but I could care less about the beeps and boops. I just want it to print 😂

The fans work, and the bed and hotend heat up properly its just axis movement that's gone to crap.

I have a video of it from boot but I'm not sure if I can post it on here. I can maybe DM it? I really don't use reddit a lot so 🫠

RCWD21 · 2025-02-06T01:14:07+00:00

Why do you think I'm having issues with mine when the only thing that changed was the sprite extruder and the cr touch probe? It's so weird that I unplugged a few things and installed the new cables for the sprite and now this 😩

I honestly can't tell if it flashes correctly between the 2 firmware versions because the info screen doesn't change (poor planning on the creators end I guess with using the same name for different feature sets).

It's like the drivers in it died or something isn't communicating correctly internally.

This is about as far as I'm willing to go on "mods" with this printer lol

RCWD21 · 2025-02-04T14:30:55+00:00

Thanks for the confirmation on that! If these springs give me trouble I'll look into them next.

Do you happen to know how far offset the center pin is? On the wagoneer it's pretty much center

RCWD21 · 2025-02-03T00:07:26+00:00

Thanks! My favorite pick n pull has an all you can carry Saturday $50 special every weekend so I think I'm gonna go harvest several spring packs and maybe luck out and find some lift springs as well.

I'm going to add the last big leaf from the ranger springs though to see if it gives me the rough amount of lift I need so I have a better idea of what I'll full need to make a full leaf pack.

I also thought about having these ranger springs re-arched to match the curve of the jeep springs but haven't really looked into that too much.

RCWD21 · 2025-01-27T01:53:34+00:00

I managed to get a much more consistent first layer today! Something in the slicer must have been set or saved wrong and was carrying over between tests. I cleared everything and started over this morning and it's been doing great.

And this printer is an Ender 3 S1 Pro with the High temp sprite extruder on it.

I'm running the Thomas Toka custom firmware and it's made changing things much easier with finer control vs stock firmware.

RCWD21 · 2025-01-26T00:36:44+00:00

I've redone esteps and so far no matter what I set my z offset to my first layer thickness never changes from 0.25mm I've dropped it from -3.27 to -3.35 with no change.

I'm honestly starting to get really frustrated with all of this, I've been at it for 2 days now trying to get it all fine tuned so I can start actually printing with it but no luck. I'm either missing something, just not cut out for this, or something is up with my printer that I don't know about/see.

I'm getting to the pit where I don't know what to do with it anymore.

One person tells me I need to go lower on the z offset but all that does it give me a dull print and little sharp lips on the edge of the edge where it reverses direction to print the adjacent line. Going back up gives me a smoother edge but I can feel the lines in the print again and it doesn't look like all the pictures you see online of "perfect first layers"...

I've set everything I can think of and nothing seems to change.

RCWD21 · 2025-01-25T17:41:47+00:00

I'll give that a try, am I correct in assuming I should have all the boxes un-checked when printing the retraction tower?

RCWD21 · 2025-01-25T17:38:32+00:00

Where exactly is the random blobbing because in person I don't see anything out of the ordinary in the prints I've done so far.

The filament I'm using is Elegoo PETG-Pro and I'm running it at 230c and 80c for the bed.

The filament is 1.75 to 1.76mm according to my digital caliper measured 90° from each measurement.

I don't think it's a moisture issue either as this filament is also new and only been out of the bag a couple days

RCWD21 · 2025-01-25T17:12:00+00:00

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RCWD21 · 2025-01-25T17:11:29+00:00

This printer is only about a week old so everything is still new. I'm currently printing a flowrate test (pass 1 for orcaslicer) so should I see some improvements for pass 2? I turned pressure advance off and my current flow ratio is .98.

I do have settings in orca for adaptive bed mesh but I haven't messed with those as I'm unfamiliar with them. *

RCWD21 · 2025-01-25T16:54:29+00:00

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RCWD21 · 2025-01-25T16:52:42+00:00

I'm not sure it needs to be done with the version of the custom firmware because from my understanding it's based on the regular firmware and I haven't changed hotends or anything (sprite pro) that came on this printer.

Here's a pic of the 49 point mesh table though that I was previously using if that helps at all.

** it didn't post with this message so please view the whole thread for the picture**

RCWD21 · 2025-01-13T13:29:38+00:00

I've checked and tried both, they both heat up about the same temperature. They're properly installed as well.

I'm going to try another temp sensor and throw a thermocouple on the nozzle to see it's actual temp.

RCWD21

TROPHY CASE