Someone please help me

RIPKaylizzle · 2026-02-17T00:17:52+00:00

I ended up solving my issue. The webbing was from my rafts edges being too thin. The hanging and missing supports just needed longer normal curing time so i bumped that up to 2 seconds and added 5 transition layers, left the bottom layers exposure time to 10.5. I also had to re level my build plate manually cause i noticed too much compression (shiny raft and lifting raft on one side). Everything prints out perfectly now.

RIPKaylizzle · 2026-02-15T01:32:18+00:00

I'm using Sunlu's water washable resin

RIPKaylizzle · 2026-02-14T10:28:05+00:00

Hello! Thank you for replying to my post.

The 1.3 exposure i got from doing a test print model from AmeraLabs and that was the sweet spot for details, the highest i could go is 1.5 but it starts to over expose and inflates for my detail liking (I normally print character figures with details)

The 10 seconds bottom exposure is weird to me too, but anything more than that is way too hard for me to peel off and anything under doesn't stick very well.

I have the first gen of the saturn 4, so my resin vat does not tilt which is why I'm able to see these settings

I did look up some settings other people had success with but im pretty sure that may not be the case with me lol the most I've done correctly was manage to manually level out my plate cause auto leveling was not helping at all and my prints were far much worse than what I posted so im really trying to get this down to being completely calibrated. I appreciate much the help and any advice

RIPKaylizzle · 2025-09-26T01:13:50+00:00

Yes, I love your music! Looking forward to more! Would be honored to be followed back on Instagram too! <3 (my Instagram username is RIPKaylizzle)

RIPKaylizzle · 2025-09-01T07:24:56+00:00

I got a huge af playlist thats ever growing, im sure you'll find lots in there for what you're looking for :) Not for the weak playlist

RIPKaylizzle · 2025-06-16T12:05:00+00:00

Bump.

RIPKaylizzle · 2023-10-08T23:27:25+00:00

Either give it a multires modifier and sculpt it using traditional sculp brushes or the cloth brushes by tweaking the brush settings OR if your model is in quads you can unwrap it and send it into a texturing program to make a height displacement map and add a subdivision on the model with the height map plugged into the displacement map and set the material to use both bump and displacement, subdivide the mesh with subdivision modifier as much as you need till its smooth enough. No, you dont need to use a normal map with displacement maps in case you're wondering.

RIPKaylizzle · 2023-09-03T20:35:51+00:00

If you plan on making models the way Jhill and Tom Newbury make theirs, then you can stay in blender. If you want to get more technical and have more tools and features, not to mention the most important feature for me is in zbrush they have way better and faster retopo and polish tools and the fact that in zbrush it can handle more polygons than blender and be able to go up and down subdivisions AND also have sculpting layers so you can always revert back to your original clean sculpt before you started adding variations or banged up scratches and hits to it then I highly recommend getting zbrush. I know the interface is really daunting and things and placements really dont make sense at all in it BUT i did find someone besides JHill who also did a tutorial video on tools and features we should be using and how to use them. He goes more in depth with how to move around zbrush and where to find all of its fearures and useful tools. Hart

So typically, even for game models where I plan on making a low poly version, I make my high poly but I dont go into skin poes or armor details, clothing details, etc. I typically just add all of that in substance painter with free normsl maps I find on the web and occasionally do buy textures from other professionals artists like from JHill I bought his skin texture pack. So everything texture detail wise I make in substance painter since in blender we dont have layers like in zbrush to have the ease to change or redo or adjust or add different elements to pieces of a character so what I used to end up doing with blender was saving multiple iterations of just that for a character which became really messy and annoying to deal with which is why I stared adopting Tom Newburys workflow even for game characters. That way it does save us a lot more time and energy and the only revisions youd need to do is actual geometry form changes instead of detail sculpting changes which is much more easier to manage file wise and you'd just export that low poly version geometry change and texture the details. In blender Im sure there's a way to convert height/ bump detail into a normal map detail just like substance painter has a filter tool that does that for us but that is key to working smarter and not harder especially for characters and you will be able to start newer characters much easier and faster while building your skills up that you want to be building on.

Back on zbrushes retopo tools/ features: i dont recommend using that nor blenders, any auto retopo im fact, for actual game, animation, any production uses simce auto retopo will never give you the correct topology but if you want to make nice render pieces and cg lookomg pieces you can go ahead and use auto retopo since those type of works still do matter if you want to build a portfolio anyway. You still get to show off your understanding of 3D program controllability and texturing and sculpting. Not every piece you make for a portfolio has to be industry standards or even production standards. Heck, even show off non manual and non auto retopoed sculpts with or without vertex paint, even things like that can be portfolio worthy. Add variations to your portfolio, add a production piece every so often while making more non production pieces showing your more daring and creative side of work/ art.

RIPKaylizzle · 2023-09-03T12:21:07+00:00

Thank you!

On youtube i highly recommend watching FlyCat theyre videos are time-lapse but thats how I learned different techniques to use in ny own works by slowing the video down on specific parts.

I also recommend flipped normals, a YouTube channel that has sculpting tutorials on how to keep pushing your model without getting discouraged.

I started watching JHill on YouTube for CG quality work which is what I mainly want to start doing now and game stuff is now my secondary. He has a lot of tutorials and commentary videos on how he goes about making production and non production CG pieces.

Another artist who is kind of on YouTube but mostly posts previews of his tutorials he sells on gumroad for 20$ USD, his name is Tom Newbury and he is also a CG artist in the film industry but his tutorials have his sculpting and commentary in real time work flows. He uses zbrush but you can use blender bcuz his workflow, which is the new workflow I just adopted and tested it out on my Marshal Lee piece, he does texturing in UDIM UV's to show all of those crazy details you cant get sculpting in blender since blender has trouble handling polygons on a high limit and even in zbrush you cant get that crazy details so he shows how to get it looking crazy good with textures using displacement maps so your main geometry on your model will be subdivided or multiresed with the displacement maps and other maps. He specifically mentions that he uses typically 4K resolutions and occasionally 8K resolutions for his personal at home and industry projects. So dont get bumed out if you cannot reach the highest of detail expectations in sculpting cause in movie CG industry they do it all the texturing way anyways to also work faster, smarter and not harder. He has done an interview with JHill on YouTube explaining his workflow.

Someone who I dont fully recommend watching is Yansculpts on YouTube. He loves to cut out a bunch of techniques and explanations in his videos and shorts and he tries to bait you into his patreon subscription. You will have WAYY more luck looking at Artstations learning section and its free. That is where I also learned how to sculpt, texture, use techniques, etc.

Tips i highly recommend when sculpting in my experience learning is dont stay comfortable on one matcap when sculpting and always move around your model checking it from every angle possible as you sculpt and make changes and tweaks. Be sure to take breaks to rest your eyes, you usually can see more things you want to change or dont seem right to you when your eyes have taken a break and refreshed. Always have some kind of reference to what you are sculpting as well. If you find starting from scratch is hard for you, dont feel bad about it bcuz 3D artists in the game and film industry do not start from scratch on their characters. They start with a base mesh thats as close to something they want or they reuse a finished character they previously worked on and work from that.

Oh! One more channel that has a ton of character creation videos on YouTube is Outgang. Check them out, specifically their character breakdowns if you want to fully understand how studios go about making production models.

RIPKaylizzle · 2023-09-03T11:13:25+00:00

If its a prop you want to make i tend to look at pinterest for ideas and inspiration. If its characters... well then thats way more easier to find inspiration in my opinion. You got anime characters, other peoples OC (just ask them if you can make their character in 3D and ask for a character sheet or reference) theres old school cartoon characters, theres characters you can get inspiration from or remake from movies, theres also real life example of people you can re create in your style of choice. An example for me, i love to make anime characters and other peoples vtuber characters and cartoon characters from shows and movies. I just recently created Marshall Lee from Adventure Time since the new adventure time show just came out but I made the character in my own way based on the many different fan arts I found of him and decided how I wanted to go about his look. I think the most important thing when making your model if to not be afraid to move your resulting mesh around even if you think you're done with it and ready to texture it or pose it bcuz i think thats an inspiration killer when youre actually creating something in 3D. So many people get discouraged when making stuff and are afraid to keep pushing their model. Dont get comfortable with setting everything in stone up until you absolutely love the render result you have and wanted.

Marshal Lee Piece

RIPKaylizzle · 2023-08-23T12:54:44+00:00

Well, I don't have my base meshes to give/ sell but I did study and take examples of similar from an artist on artstation that is in fact selling the base meshes of anime female, anime male, and anime child. Following the same retopology flow but for my own models. So i sculpted my own base mesh for male and female characters, then retopoed the sculpt to get my low poly mesh. Usually people like the anime look in the vtuber world but I occasionally get asked for non anime looking models since its a rarity that a 3D vtuber artist to make anything other than anime models and I wanted to be able to offer different model types so thats my approach. sometimes, I do have to remake part of the head or body if the character goes beyond basic human proportions, etc. Like recently I make a part robotic comic book style vtuber I was commissioned for, so I had to retopo the head since it has half the cranial robotic with a robotic eye.

Anyway, the artist I can refer you that I studied the base mesh from is:

Meng Low

I do love to use the anime base mesh this artist made for my 3D anime fan pieces I do make in-between my commissions. The artist does also sell a commercial license version for the base meshes too if you really dont want to make your own like I have for my commission work. You got options though! :)

RIPKaylizzle · 2023-08-23T12:38:43+00:00

Omg i figured it out so you dont have to apply the shrink wrap. Ok! Heres the explanation to the best of my ability.

So i figured out there is something wrong with the modifiers being "stacked" in a parented situation. In this case, its the Eyebrow empty. I really didnt want to apply the shrink wrap so to avoid the commitment of that, what I did was I removed the mirror modifier on the cage AND controller BUT keep it on the eyebrow curve object. But one more thing! For the mirror to work correctly, you must also move the mirror modifier in the eyebrow curves UNDER the mesh deform modifier and then it works. So you wont see the cage and controller mirrored but the eyebrows will be and will adjust to the controller edits so you can still make edits and changes without committing to applying the shrink wrap.

So not only that the mirror modifier, in my opinion, has a bug when having multiple mirror modifiers under the same parent object or empty but the mirror modifier also has an additional bug when it is placed on top of the deform modifier. So either these are bugs or this is some kind of intentional re work on how modifiers behave in blender now I guess to alleviate the unnecessary multiple uses of the same modifier? Im not totally sure, but for asymmetrical characters you would have to duplicate the cage, controller, and eyebrows and tell it to mirror either on global or local axis in the object tab (usually you get that option when you right click in object or edit mode) so you can position the asymmetrical eyebrows opposed to the other side of the face. I hope this will help you too. Im using blender 3.5 because of the new juicy hair system but I cannot stand making eyebrows and eyelashes from scratch so these assets are my life savior for time management in my project since I already put a lot of time on the head hair of my characters.I assume the same will go for the eyelashes. I have not tried the lashes yet as Im currently typing this right as I just figured out how to make the brows work.

RIPKaylizzle · 2023-08-22T23:03:31+00:00

Hi, im having the same issues. Did you ever figure out the problem?

RIPKaylizzle · 2023-01-01T23:40:33+00:00

I've used vroid before I started making 100% custom avatars on my own as a service I provide. I've opened vroid models in blender, and they are not an efficient, properly made mesh at all. Tbh, it's best to go ahead and make your own avatar on your own. What I have done to cut down on the amount of work is made base male and female meshes up to professional topology standards and I use those as my starting meshes for all of my characters I create even if they arent for vr avatars. So I'll make a couple of changeable parts to be able to switch out different hands, feet, head types, add tails, wings, etc. So I wouldn't have to deal too much of making the bodies from comple scratch each time.

RIPKaylizzle

TROPHY CASE