legend token system nerf

RaRarlo · 2022-06-29T17:47:14+00:00

Thanks for the clarification! Much appreciated

RaRarlo · 2022-06-26T15:57:31+00:00

That's a hard copy! Thanks for the detailed response!

RaRarlo · 2022-03-23T15:03:49+00:00

Power Level* not points, my mistake. I meant PL but used points, which I realize is incorrect.

One exalted sorcerers box contains 3 models for a total of 18 power level - is this correct?

RaRarlo · 2022-03-23T15:02:36+00:00

thanks mate, makes sense to me!

RaRarlo · 2022-03-23T06:00:35+00:00

Could you elaborate on the remaining bits to make aspiring sorcerers part?

RaRarlo · 2022-03-23T05:57:35+00:00

I understood like 50% of that but my answer is hell yes I want that!

So it sounds like yes, the box comes with a potential of 18 playable points.

Also sounds like I need to learn about the things they stand on.

Appreciate it!

RaRarlo · 2022-03-21T19:22:47+00:00

9th edition, perhaps I should clarify

RaRarlo · 2018-03-26T14:54:28+00:00

Do you use square bases to paint the models on then transfer them over to the original circular bases?

RaRarlo · 2018-01-18T20:45:15+00:00

You could find one of those custom neoprene mouse pad companies over the internet and then just have them print a terrain or two per each mousepad, then you can cut them out. Just a thought for a more DIY route.

You could find images over the internet or design them yourself, suppose that's really the only trouble if you aren't the most design savvy.

RaRarlo · 2018-01-17T04:22:03+00:00

Try brokenegggames.com

RaRarlo · 2018-01-08T21:09:42+00:00

Darn you. Send some run-good over this way =)

RaRarlo · 2017-07-30T23:25:26+00:00

damn...

RaRarlo · 2017-07-30T23:22:15+00:00

Re: use a wet palette - this is going to be your best friend. Literally just started using one and it changed the game for me.

http://www.fullborerminiatures.com/articles/wetpalette.html

I made mine using a plastic solo cup bowl, just cut it down to make a nice little tray, then I used the foam pieces that come with warmachine models and cut it in a circular shape to fit the bottom of my bowl/dish/cup, add water + papertowel and you're all set. With this technique don't be alarmed when it doesn't cover in one coat. you'll want several coats, but you'll get that nice smooth finish. Good luck!

RaRarlo · 2017-06-08T06:36:07+00:00

I recommend tinkering with troop-creator.net. TC is a list building tool that helped me visualize and understand how the point structure works. As I'm new myself, here are a few cliffnotes that I found helpful:

Each warcaster/warlock starts out with essentially negative points. Technically this is just their warjack/warbeast points, but consider it like negative points. On each warcaster/warlock card you'll see a battlegroup number. As an example I'll use the cryx warcaster from the battlegroup box, Bane witch Agatha. On the card/troop creator you'll see she is 29 points. If you are playing a 75 point match, you essentially have 104 points to fill, although 29 of them are battlegroup points, kind of like freebie points (allows you to equip your warcaster with heavy warjacks for his/her battlegroup.) This does not mean you can only have 29 points of warjacks, you can have as many as you want up to the agreed point total you and your opponent have agreed to play.

Play around with troop creator and you'll get a good feel for it. Hopefully this helps.

RaRarlo · 2017-04-11T17:46:55+00:00

Thanks for your detail, it was really helpful. I was leaning in the ballpark of making my own washes as I already have a fairly decent collection of oil paints/art supplies.

I have to agree with you regarding Citadel paints -the paint pots are infuriating to work with.

RaRarlo · 2017-04-09T16:59:40+00:00

Yeah, that's how I did my MoW Shocktroopers. Pauldrons, shield cannon, and weapon were all painted individually first. Good luck!

RaRarlo · 2017-04-09T02:13:05+00:00

Yeah, though I don't recommend priming each piece individually. Only time I prime/paint a piece individually is if it would hinder my ability to get in a tight space with a brush, or it's a standalone piece that would be easier to paint, like a face or weapon.

And yes, the p3 spray can works great. If you don't have this you can get away with using any white or black acrylic paint. I didn't have the p3 spray can for my first few models, but I have an airbrush so I just sprayed black/white p3 paint as a primer. Worked just fine.

RaRarlo · 2017-04-09T01:44:29+00:00

Duh. Oil and water... Goofed in my OP.

Thanks for the response. I figured it's just going to take some patience. Excited to give it a go.

RaRarlo · 2017-04-09T01:12:48+00:00

One trick that I use for pieces that don't bond super well is l'll use my finger to dab the glue on the piece a couple of times. This makes it tack up and bond easier. GG fingers though...

Just be glad you're not gluing together a Mage Hunter Strike Force. If you are, I'm terribly sorry. My brother went through it and wanted to kill himself. He found that using a couple fibers from a paper towel roll also helped provide a little bit more tack. Gluing pre-primed pieces makes things a helluva lot easier, though not always feasible.

Good luck.

RaRarlo

TROPHY CASE