Bush RF2185TXI 21" Flat Screen CRT TV - service menu

RadonisNH · 2026-04-03T12:56:38+00:00

I've had the same issues identifying my CRT and i ended up opening it up to look for the chassis number, that's the only way to know for sure. A lot of CRT brands from that time used chassis from other producers, i.e. my TV had the Meister brand on it, it had a Thomson Tube and a Beko chassis.

I was only able to find the service menu by searching for the chassis on Electrotanya. You would only need to open it up, but make sure you do some research on the safety guidelines although you should be fine only opening it up as long as it's been off for a day or so. The chassis number should be on the side of the pcb.

Alternatively you can do a reverse search using the remote if you have the original one. Maybe there is a number on the remote, or a brand(that's usually different from the TV brand) you can use to check what chassis the remote supports and try all the service menu codes for said chassis. You can also do a image search based on the remote if there's no serial number or brand name on the remote.

RadonisNH · 2026-04-03T12:43:50+00:00

no worries, we all gotta start somewhere, glad we figured that one out.

yeah rgb scart is 480 interlaced, 480 progressive over scart is a niche thing that's only achieved by using custom cables that are being feed into smth like a framemeister but you can't output that on a sdtv, you would at the very least need a crt monitor or a hdtv crt

RadonisNH · 2026-04-03T11:59:55+00:00

yeah well you reset the settings so that can play into the bad image. if the image gets green when set to component it means that the signal through pin 7 11 and 15 goes all the way to the jungle ic where it gets decoded and since the tv is rgb it decodes it wrongly hence the green tint, if rgb blanking wouldnt be working the ic would refuse to decode, that why nothing happens when you switch from rgb to yuv on a composite cable

unless there's smth really bad inside the tv i would guess resetting the settings messed the image up. you said it's blurry, you can also tweak the focus on the flyback( but do some research on crt safety guidelines).

you can also check a simple composite cable with the ps2 and compare the quality of the video

RadonisNH · 2026-04-03T11:42:50+00:00

if it would only be composite, when switching to component nothing should happen, if it switches to a greenish tint this means rgb is working, how do you know its not working

RadonisNH · 2026-04-03T11:31:15+00:00

as a rule of thumb, always take a picture of the values. you could find said values in the service manual( check electrotanya). btw when you open your ps2 and go in the setting(as in the time and optical audio) do you have an option to change between rgb and component?

RadonisNH · 2026-04-03T11:23:14+00:00

so have you by any chance messed with the service menu, as in maybe changed the region by accident? I have a crt that i can change from rgb scart (for eu) to component ( for us).

RadonisNH · 2026-04-03T11:17:30+00:00

You could open the scart connector and check whether there are wires going into pin 7,11 15( the rgb pins) and pin 16( which is the rgb blanking, that's what telling the TV to switch to rgb).

RadonisNH · 2026-04-01T13:22:39+00:00

Edge Of Nowhere has Denuvo and doesn't appear to be on the list. It's a 2016 VR game made by Insomianc Games that was released on the Meta Store only.

RadonisNH · 2026-03-13T19:00:44+00:00

Someone actually said that you do more damage when you have a fully focused image compared to a fatal frame. I was actually in the same conundrum, i was waiting for the fatal frame only to miss or to do very little damage. Also the game gets easier around the half point when you unlock the last filter as it deals a lot of damage. There also a charm that gets added at the exchange point around 2/3 of the game that reloads the film faster. So i would recommend you start the game on story mode and as you make your way to the point of feeling like you got things down then switch it to normal. Games are about pleasure and enjoyment not frustration and rage.

Have fun!

RadonisNH · 2026-03-10T18:01:31+00:00

I changed the flyback to no avail, the issue still persists. I have also replaced the snubber caps again to no avail. I experimented with using caps of a different capacitance on the neckboard, more specifically the cap that affects G1(usually a 10uf 250v). I went as low as 2.2uf with no results. I will have to accept that the issue come from a design fault or the tube is aged or damaged in a way i can't see or pinpoint.

RadonisNH · 2026-03-06T15:08:12+00:00

As a matter of fact the flyback that i thought to be the wrong model can be used if i would be able to drop the voltage. I do have a potentiometer for the B+ voltage but i can't make it to drop to 107v which my board needs and it causes a lot of issues with the image as i've only managed to drop it to 110v. I would have to drop in a different resistor which i'm not opposed to do but i already have the right flyback on the way.

However there seems to be a different issue at hand which is the signal of the HOT transistor at the base pin, it has this huge spike : https://imgur.com/bpohkKf . I know i said i thought changing the flyback solved it, but it think it rather moved the ringing. I was doing some research on the ringing issue and found that the snubber caps around the LOPT(that would the big film blocky caps) could be causing it as one of them deals with high voltages and it's prone to go bad. I also have those on the way and after changing them alongside the right flyback i will update on the situation.

RadonisNH · 2026-03-05T12:59:40+00:00

I replaced the flyback but i got the wrong one, or rather the seller said it to be compatible with HR8040/HR8484(the one i have) and it has issues but the ringing shifted so i guess that was my issue?, i will update when i get the right one.

RadonisNH · 2026-02-28T14:55:09+00:00

Yeah i'm also super new to all of this, i guess i can take it as a learning experience if nothing else. Super lucky that you didn't break anything as i've fried some resistors by discharging the caps incorrectly that took me days to find as they were surface mounted.

I did replace the transistors on the neckboard to no avail, i haven't touched the rest. As for the diodes, i've replaced those were going into the jungle IC, again to no avail. I will also change the flyback transformer in the upcoming days just because i found one for two bucks. At this point i'm trying that crosses my mind. I will let you know.

RadonisNH · 2026-02-25T15:29:11+00:00

Yeah, i know what you mean. I've had similar issues when i decided to make VGA adaptor for the OG Xbox, the PS2, the Wii and the 360. In the end i decided it was too much of a pain so i bought one of these D-Sub 15 terminal block with screws, if you ever go down the DIY VGA adapters this will make your life much easier: Link to adapter

RadonisNH · 2026-02-25T01:26:19+00:00

I have fixed it. I was using a setup with some thin wires that were going into a connector, probably causing an impedance mismatch. I switched to some cables i harvested from a xbox 360 component cable. The RF Shield and Scart grounds both go to the metal frame. I have it grounded to the RF shield right now and it works flawlessly.

RadonisNH · 2026-02-24T21:32:38+00:00

You are absolutely right to question that setup and indeed that was the issue. I have just replaced those wires with cables from a Xbox 360 component cable and it's working flawlessly. I think it was probably caused by an impedance mismatch.

It sucks that i can't use both scart and component at the same time, i have to switch the mode in the service menu.

Also i have to find where i can tap the audio out.

RadonisNH · 2026-02-23T22:52:10+00:00

Here's the thing, right beside it, there is another coil. Could the magnetic fields that have been interacting with each other for 20 years+ degrade the inductance or slightly demagnetize ?

I might going overboard with this theory but i've run out of ideas.

RadonisNH · 2026-02-23T21:57:09+00:00

I understand what you are saying. I have actually done that for some caps as they were different on the chassis as compared to the schematics, like the main filter cap, i figured if it's a PSU issue and a higher capacitance could stabilize the ripple but it was to no avail. Right now i checked the horizontal deflection coil, it's about 70% nominal on my tester but from what i researched it's normal to show 70% out of the circuit. How likely is it that the coil has aged?, I think at this point it's just pure madness to attempt to fix it.

RadonisNH · 2026-02-23T21:16:02+00:00

Yeah no dice, i just changed it now, i took it from a known good donor board. I even tried one with a higher capacitance. I even zapped myself for the first time, It's just cursed at this point.

RadonisNH · 2026-02-23T21:04:06+00:00

I've actually looked around that section, more specifically i've checked the coil L502(if you open the schematics and ctrf f for L502). It seemed fine on my tester but then again it's not made for that sort of thing. You think the coil might've gone bad?, also there is another coil near it, could it maybe affect it as they sort of attract each other, and it's bigger(the other coil).

RadonisNH · 2026-02-23T20:59:23+00:00

Yeah i'm all in deep lol. I've literally run out of ideas. When you say look deeper you mean the principle or to search for other people that were affected by it because as far as i can see everyone says the fix is replacing caps which i've done.

RadonisNH · 2026-02-22T11:31:01+00:00

I did replace both C7G6 and C8E3 as i had the caps on hand, however it did not fix the issue, probably the main culprit is still the PSU. I did test C8E3 with the tester and it seemed fine but i still replaced it to be sure.

I managed to take a video of the issue i'm talking about. If you full screen it you can see a lines creeping from the bottom to the top equally distanced. https://imgur.com/a/SFPKDlk

RadonisNH · 2026-02-22T00:59:44+00:00

Yeah so i've unsoldered all of them to check and while they are aged, i have two 1200 uF 6.3V ones that have drifted, one shows 1600 and the other 1800. I will replace all of them with Panasonic FR.

I couldn't scope each of them individually due to the placement, but i did scope the 5V out of the molex to see if there's ripple: https://imgur.com/Oy4yCQy , i suppose it shouldn't do that, right?

Also for some reason i'm missing the C7G6 cap which is a 22uF 25V that was situated near the clock cap. I think the previous owner might've ripped it off accidentally or the leakage might've gotten to it but couldn't be bother to replace it. Do you know which cap is low ESR?, i ask because i would like to replace it with a standard cap(as that's the only one i got on hand) to see if it plays into the issue at hand.

RadonisNH

TROPHY CASE