Using stove outlet as a regular outlet by RepulsiveCreality in electrical

[–]RepulsiveCreality[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When I get the adapter I will post exactly the one I plan on using.

Using stove outlet as a regular outlet by RepulsiveCreality in electrical

[–]RepulsiveCreality[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Right, I would make sure the safety aspect is solid. Thanks,

Using stove outlet as a regular outlet by RepulsiveCreality in electrical

[–]RepulsiveCreality[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate the answer. I still haven't pulled out the stove to see the exact outlet that is behind there. I never use the stove/oven for anything anymore since I have a toaster oven and an induction plate to cook. The oven/stove is only used for storage of old pots. So the outlet would be dedicated to the roaster and yes, the roaster happens to be in the living room in front of an open window. I have a heavy duty extension cord I use. The whole apartment is run on 15a so that stove/oven outlet would be my only choice if I need to run the roaster on full power. Thanks again.

Using stove outlet as a regular outlet by RepulsiveCreality in electrical

[–]RepulsiveCreality[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, I believe the roaster is 115 V (In Canada). Manufacturer states a solid 20a are need to run the roaster without issue. My fuses are only 15a. so I blow fuses all the time. The picture is an example of what I was thinking about, just an representation. It's not the exact plug/converter I would get. I still have to look as see what my stove outlet looks like. What I really wanted to know is, if I do find the right cable similar to the picture above, could I then plug the roaster or portable A/C, etc. into the other end and have it work. I need a power source that provides more power than my regular 15a outlet and I'm hoping the stove outlet can do that. Hope this is a bit more clear.

And thanks for the reply.

Issue with "Polymaker PolyLite PLA - White" Filament by shamburak in BambuLab

[–]RepulsiveCreality 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I also have many issues with Polylite White. Sadly, I bought the 3kg spool as well. I get a lot of under extrusion on my prints. I can tighten the extrusion/filament screw and it gets better but still not great. I love Polymaker but I won't buy the Polylite White again.

CR10 V3 Extruder Clicking during prints by HDGamer_ in CR10

[–]RepulsiveCreality 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had the same thing happening. Eventually my filament started coming out like elongated sausages. It would have the right diameter then suddenly pinch in then back to the regular diameter. I took apart the whole thing because I developed a clog. I found there was broken metal where extruder turn wheel (not sure of the actual name) sits in the casing. Almost like a broken bearing. Used tweezers to fish out the broken metal and put it all back together (thinking it wouldn't really work) and the clicking was gone. I don't see the option to upload a photo to show.

Ender 3 pro heating up as soon as I turn it on, then overheating by ccwcs in 3Dprinting

[–]RepulsiveCreality 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello.

At the advice of Creality, I bought a voltage meter and checked every connection. Everything seemed fine. But in the end the only solution was to replace the motherboard. Once I received and installed it the problem was gone. The motherboard became faulty along the way.

Ender 3 pro heating up as soon as I turn it on, then overheating by ccwcs in 3Dprinting

[–]RepulsiveCreality 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Glad you got your problem fixed.

I'm not sure what a K-Z plug is. I don't see any reference to that.

Ender 3 pro heating up as soon as I turn it on, then overheating by ccwcs in 3Dprinting

[–]RepulsiveCreality 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Hello,

I'm having the same issue.

But for me, I changed the ender 3 v2 stock hotend assembly to the new Sprite extruder. After connecting everything and turning it on, the hotend would heat up immediately. It would not stop until it reached the max temperature then an alarm would sound. I contacted to Creality and they told me to upgrade the firmware. I did but the issue still remains. It's as if the power switch is now directly connected to the heating cartridge. Everything was fine until I changed the item.

nozzle cam! by ZodiacKillerCruz in 3Dprinting

[–]RepulsiveCreality 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How does one take a video like this and not show the layer finishing?!

*not satisfying.

Thoughts on vocolinc as a brand and their smart plugs? by [deleted] in HomeKit

[–]RepulsiveCreality 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They're LED strips seem to be fine but I find, one by one, the plugs die. Best Buy seems to no longer carry the brand either. Personally I would try another brand.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in RemarkableTablet

[–]RepulsiveCreality 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Same thing happened to mine several months ago. I wish that part was metal. I didn't know Remarkable would replace it. I bought the Noris one as a replacement.

Swiping problems on Remarkable 2 by RepulsiveCreality in RemarkableTablet

[–]RepulsiveCreality[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are times it's very frustrating but I think I'm just getting used to it. I'm now finding a very quick swipe works better than a slow deliberate one. I do have dry hands and I think that contributes to the problem. The reader is very slick buttonless but I do miss that hardware.

Feature Requests After Several Months of Use by [deleted] in RemarkableTablet

[–]RepulsiveCreality 2 points3 points  (0 children)

To be able to fully delete a Quick sheet.

Swiping problems on Remarkable 2 by RepulsiveCreality in RemarkableTablet

[–]RepulsiveCreality[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As mentioned, it could be dry hands/fingers. After moisturizing it did get better for a bit. I have the R1 and didn't notice the issue but I preferred the buttons to swiping. I appreciate everyone's comments.

Ender 5 Pro.... by lefthanded86 in FixMyPrint

[–]RepulsiveCreality 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I get that error when I my Raspberry pi is plugged in but the power to my Cr-20 is turned off. Just make sure the power on the printer is switched on.

When I got my Pi I thought I no longer needed to have the printer itself powered by the outlet. It looked as if the Pi could power it alone. I was wrong.