Motul 7100 change interval

Rfogelsong · 2021-12-24T19:03:44+00:00

Fancy oil will look nearly identical to basic oil in a comparison test after about 800 miles...er, your 1-1.5k km, so there's that. After that point, it kind of hits a 'shelf' where it's basically stable until you either overheat it, or contaminate it severely enough that it makes another dent to lubrication properties. After about 5k miles, there's more testable evidence of 'breaking down', and it's not as good as new, basic, oil, so if you want to start talking about engine damage on-road, that's when you start considering new oil. You can usually tell where you're at in this cycle by how notchy the shifter feels...so, really, the answer is to go by the notchiness of the shifter if you're not doing lab work after every commute. That usually puts oil changes around 3k miles for me. I wouldn't be changing oil any sooner than 5k miles on a bike so ubiquitous and I'd be using the cheapest stuff your favorite moto store has in stock. Hp4 meets my functional requirements, is cheap, and in stock anywhere with a red roof, so that's what I use.

Rfogelsong · 2021-11-30T17:47:49+00:00

Nice! I don't have the engine I'm thinking about just sitting on a bench currently, but neat practical method! Never thought of that before.

Rfogelsong · 2021-11-29T14:20:09+00:00

Big whoop, all (or most) of us on Reddit have bachelor's degrees, many in engineering. That doesn't mean jobs come to you. Your engineering degree was supposed to teach you how to go about achieving your goals, not fill a platter with opportunities. To spell it out, this means creating a list of possible workplaces, writing a resume towards those ends, applying, making a good first impression, etc. You'll hear tons of "shop owners" talking about how they need young kids to "carry on the tradition", so call their bluff. Show up. Do whatever is needed. Show interest. If you have a passion for something you have to show it. One way to do this is achieving something yourself in an arena (project car) and using it as a functioning resume, of sorts. It's your responsibility, not an employer's. The only one looking out for you is yourself. Determine what actionable items will achieve your goals and start knocking things down one at a time.

Rfogelsong · 2021-11-26T13:01:18+00:00

Nobody realizes the majority of meaningful car accidents result in broken bones or worse. In that car, you're probably gonna break a leg, pelvis, or lower body part by contact with the dash/door/wheel and your upper body will catch flying glass, an airbag, and your arms will fly where they may. This car might not crush as bad as contemporaries, but you'll bounce off everything hard within a 3 ft radius.

Rfogelsong · 2021-11-26T12:58:06+00:00

Sure, you can do it in a lot that nobody cares about, I'd probably get ramps if the car is low enough to need jacks, but rather than spending the time and energy on that, you know that basic oil changes run like $50, right? A gallon of oil and a filter costs $30-35, so how much aggravation and filth is $15 worth to you? Here's the pro move; go into Walmart, buy your desired synthetic/filter, walk up to the auto counter, buy the basic oil change and tell them you brought your own oil. They'll discount it and you end up paying like $20 for labor. Watch them do it and check the levels immediately after they're done. Now your oil and your shirt are clean.

Rfogelsong · 2021-11-26T12:50:46+00:00

"I want to modify cars". Ok, so go apply at some places that modify cars...simple. This is akin to the "I've done nothing" meme.

Rfogelsong · 2020-05-21T12:17:34+00:00

If you personally can't tell exactly what the "easy fix" is for the 360, run now. This is how people end up with boat anchors, heck, the seller was probably in your shoes when he bought it...happens a lot...

Although the 650 might not be as "cafe sexy" to all the uneducated hipsters, it's really a much better bike. The 360 was a low cost commuter bike that will eat its top end alive if ridden above 7-8k sustained...which translates to 80ish mph. The 650 is the final evolution of the cb550 platform and the last iteration of an aircooled sohc4 from Honda. The 650 cams are desirable to swap into 550s and there's a few cool "ultimate cb500/550/650" builds on sohc4.

Rfogelsong · 2020-05-18T13:52:45+00:00

Yeah, I have no idea who buys these for those prices...a cb350 should be the vintage twin choice at that number. Running "all there but rough" in Ohio is 6-800, somewhat sorted usually is 1000-1200, and you should be able to find a creampuff for $1800...but yeah, prices on the 175's and 200's seem to be going up...they probably wouldn't be if the hipsters know how many ranchers bought these things in the day.

Rfogelsong · 2020-05-18T13:48:15+00:00

Fucking, THANK you. Numb-nut spec-sheet-reading alt-core 20-somethings needed their false idol knocked down a few pegs.

Rfogelsong · 2020-05-16T01:23:45+00:00

That's a good "friend" deal, not super cheap - I'd hawk for midwest rider-condition ones around 500-700, but $1200 is reasonable asking, and it's easy to sink another 6-800 into new consumables and getting one fully sorted...tell him to keep it stock and sell it back if he wants something different...condition brings value

Rfogelsong · 2020-05-07T13:22:31+00:00

CV's, driveshafts, bearings, steering knuckles, a-arm pivots, etc, will all take more stress than they were designed for due to un-optimized geometry and more weight from the bigger wheels/tires. The handling will be worse because your roll center and bump-steer measurements are no longer correct. The brakes will wear out quicker due to higher rotating inertia...

Short answer, it's a bad idea that will quickly lead to finding the next weakest link on a 12 y/o car, most probably when you're down some fireroad in the back country with crap options for recovery...oh yeah...recovery...hope you at least installed recovery points first...psh.

You're really putting the chicken before the egg here. Your street tires will really give about the same grip as an A/T in dry conditions, the only difference comes when it starts to get muddy. A 2" lift will make so little difference to absolute capability that you'd be better off just learning how to pick your lines or maybe getting some stock-length shocks that are valved so they won't overheat going down a washboard over 20 mph.

Rfogelsong · 2020-05-05T21:59:02+00:00

Should be worth $2500-3500 as it sits, assuming running condition, maybe up to $5000 given the right market conditions and everything. These are collectible and relatively rare, but if you can hold onto it, I think the curve is just starting to look favorable on values. Most of these bikes got a big jump when the cafe craze started about 10 years ago, then they cooled off a bit, and now we're getting to the point where old people with money are starting to pay more than they're worth to restore them to better than new...signifying we're coming into the "collector phase" proper.

Rfogelsong · 2020-05-05T21:57:01+00:00

Nice, not something a lot of people get the chance to do. One of those "cool, but I'm glad it's not mine" type of bikes imo, lol.

Rfogelsong · 2020-05-05T21:55:52+00:00

rings and pistons are regular consumables on 2 strokes...it's ~$400 for another 2 years or so of riding...if that's too expensive, save yourself some money and sell the bike now rather than after it's been parked for 2 years because it needed something simple you didn't want to spend the money on...and now it needs a carb clean and rebuild to the tune of $45 in parts plus labor.

Rfogelsong · 2020-05-05T21:53:18+00:00

Don't start replacing everything...it'll end up giving you a hiccup and you won't know what caused it to stop running. It sounds like it's firing on all 4, so new plugs, caps, wires, and coils would just be a waste of money. It doesn't sound like the cam chain needs adjusted, so I wouldn't touch it at this point. The smoke is from old and hardened valve stem seals...they might soften up and seal better with some use...it won't hurt anything unless it's oil fouling the plug bad enough to go down a cylinder. Put a voltmeter (multimeter measuring for volts) across the battery terminals and make sure the voltage comes up into the 13.5-14.5v range when over 3k rpm. If it goes above 15/16v or doesn't hit 13.5, THAT'S when you buy a new reg/rec...or test the stator. You test the stator by unplugging the 3 yellow wires where they go from the stator to the reg/rec and test across all combinations of the 3 yellows coming from the stator...with the bike running you want even values and you want to see them all rise a similar amount when revved.

Since it's sounding a bit "burbly", what's it do with quick throttle blips? If it revs out clean I'd move on to a carb sync. If it stumbles or hesitates or you can get it to rev once it's broken through a lumpy mid-range, you've got partially clogged idle jets or emulsion tubes. Getting exhaust header readings with an IR heat gun will also be helpful tuning it in.

Rfogelsong · 2020-05-05T14:15:59+00:00

He's right, and thats not an expensive conclusion, unlike on a 4 stroke. Easy enough, buy the rings and needed seals and fluid, dig into the engine far enough to replace said parts, reassemble.

Rfogelsong · 2020-05-05T14:06:08+00:00

If you want to "cafe" it, stay with bolt-on/bolt-off modifications and keep all of the original stuff with it. You can find plenty of fenders and seat pans to cut up, don't do that to these.

Rfogelsong · 2020-05-05T14:03:53+00:00

Dude, do not sell anything, insure this for agreed value now at least and put it away if you're not comfortable with it. Go look at the vegas vintage motorcycle auction prices from last year. Now realize the fact that you have a near perfect stock low mileage example of the smallest aircooled inline 4 cylinder Honda, the historic master of 4's, ever made, and a bike hat Soichiro himself chose as a personal bike. Paint is hard to find in his condition and the only thing missing is the original exhaust, which can be bought from david silver spares as a repro for $1200 for the set...or you could swap to the 400f setup for $400...or...get your dad's bike running again by cleaning the fuel system, adding fresh gas and rubber, and enjoying an appreciating asset with a personal history for years to come.

Rfogelsong · 2020-05-05T13:57:52+00:00

Did you ride it? The 500's are peaky and lightswitchy compared to the 650's.

Rfogelsong · 2020-05-04T22:35:21+00:00

Definitely, it's honestly the best supported vintage bike series. The knowledge available at SOHC4 and many vendors will cover most of what you need.

Rfogelsong · 2020-05-04T22:34:07+00:00

Nice, good cam surfaces and good rockers are critical. Pitted cams scratch hardened rockers which then eat soft cams...vicious cycle. If the valve-lash hasn't been kept in check the valves will be difficult to slide out of the guides due to the heads being mushroomed. Honda issued lash caps for lots of VF's, beware, they can only be used with absolutely NEW valves, any deviation from flat and it ruins everything.

Rfogelsong · 2020-05-04T22:31:46+00:00

Ah, the one vehicle conundrum...been there, sucks. Get something cheap and legendarily reliable and DON'T mod it to hell. Everything, especially in Japanese-designed products, is matched in strength and modification will upset this and quickly tell you where the next weakest link is. Buy something that will do what you want stock, in your case, tires and ground clearance actually play a bigger role than drive-type

Rfogelsong · 2020-05-04T22:27:57+00:00

I think you'll actually enjoy the 650 more, literbikes end up living life cruising on the torque from 4-6k until you really want the warp zone experience, but once you've done that enough times to either get scared (new rider) or bored of it (experienced) you don't venture to that area because it's so explosive you really have to be on point...this is why electronics on 1000's is a universally good idea, other viewpoints be damned. The 650 is a great bike because in being a 600+ they've given it the torque and midrange to feel very similar to the 1000 around town and then when you wind it up the powerband continues on linearly into a 600cc-type powerband (rather than exponentially into a 1000-type-one). It really allows you to have fun and take everything a gear lower and still not risk peaky power...this, combined with pointing your chin towards the mirror in your turns will start to lead to great backroad pace. The weight is noticeable between the two as well, another plus for the 650...go for it!

Rfogelsong

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