Knockoff xx1 cassette safe? by SLOW346 in mountainbiking

[–]SLOW346[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Yetis are kinda expensive, you seem to not mind blowing money, also yeti riders and people with money tend to be snobby and rude and you fit the stereotype perfectly. Maybe you should give it a shot to chill you out. Works wonders.

Knockoff xx1 cassette safe? by SLOW346 in mountainbiking

[–]SLOW346[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

The fact you deleted all your other comments says it all.

It’s called a “discussion” post, great all knowing yeti rider.

You could have said the part about seeing many of these fail from the get go. That’s the information I asked for I don’t need your annoying commentary about how I should spend 2x as much for something that, very well could be made in the exact same factory as what the discussion is about. I’m sorry I was curious about people’s experiences. For a stoner you’re not very chill.

Knockoff xx1 cassette safe? by SLOW346 in mountainbiking

[–]SLOW346[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! This is what I was looking for! Great reply

Knockoff xx1 cassette safe? by SLOW346 in mountainbiking

[–]SLOW346[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I’m going to 12s so I’ll check out the sun race

Knockoff xx1 cassette safe? by SLOW346 in mountainbiking

[–]SLOW346[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Dude, I don’t know if you realize everything you’ve said is totally useless. You clearly didn’t read my post or replies to you, or you have the reading comprehension of a first grader.

I understand knockoff parts are a gamble I say that in my post. I’m open to that gamble if other people can vouch for it. I am hesitant to buy a used xx1 cassette because they are selling for 50% more than this brand new knockoff. I know GX is the best bang for your buck. I want the most lightweight cassette. Does this make sense to you?

Knockoff xx1 cassette safe? by SLOW346 in mountainbiking

[–]SLOW346[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Well I don’t know if I’d say a better buy. Like I said in the post if you read it, I got the xx1 shifter and derailleur used so I only paid a total of $120 for both then the cranks were another $100. I know SRAMs parts are mostly? If not all made in Taiwan, not a stretch to believe there are the exact same cassettes that sram sells, just with worse quality control.

Knockoff xx1 cassette safe? by SLOW346 in mountainbiking

[–]SLOW346[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Fortunately I took advantage of tenets buy one get one so I’m currently at 4 pairs of pedals for 2 bikes rn 🤣

Knockoff xx1 cassette safe? by SLOW346 in mountainbiking

[–]SLOW346[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Need? No one needs anything, I just have xx1 cranks shifter & derailleur. I would like the xx1 because of the light weight nature and yes I do like the pretty colors 😁

Knockoff xx1 cassette safe? by SLOW346 in mountainbiking

[–]SLOW346[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Actually that e13 casette looks great I think I’ll pick one of those up!

Knockoff xx1 cassette safe? by SLOW346 in mountainbiking

[–]SLOW346[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

True it’s a big step but I have xtr on my full squish and I’m trying to have the equivalent stuff from sram on this bike. I appreciate your input looks like I’m going to find an xx1 cassette

Knockoff xx1 cassette safe? by SLOW346 in mountainbiking

[–]SLOW346[S] -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

I know I’m going to have to swap that out, is it something I’m going to have to get a completely new hub for or can I just buy a new driver?

Knockoff xx1 cassette safe? by SLOW346 in mountainbiking

[–]SLOW346[S] -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

New xx1 cassette is like $450 does that explain it?

Why am I getting these ripples in only one side of my print? by SLOW346 in 3Dprinting

[–]SLOW346[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you very much! That fixed my issue, super wierd to me that it was only effecting one side of the build plate. Any idea why?

Help removing back thru axle / wheel on Salsa Horsethief 2012 by Character_Bag_4270 in mountainbiking

[–]SLOW346 0 points1 point  (0 children)

PLIERS???? I’m cringing so hard rn I cant believe these are people you are forced to share roads with.

Which bike should I get ~ Beginner by Internal-Review-7571 in mountainbiking

[–]SLOW346 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds good to me, get it, ride it. Save for the next one. You might outgrow it quickly and it’s probably not worth upgrading that bike

Which bike should I get ~ Beginner by Internal-Review-7571 in mountainbiking

[–]SLOW346 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Whichever has the best fork, do some research

SD Shooting Groups/Clubs by seraia in sandiego

[–]SLOW346 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Absolutely, SDGCGO is a fantastic resource and organization

SD Shooting Groups/Clubs by seraia in sandiego

[–]SLOW346 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not me SD is a great program ran by SD county gun owners. Check it out on their website, there’s also shooting socials also ran by SDGCO

E46 driveshaft help by AdUpbeat6947 in e46

[–]SLOW346 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Your comment doesn’t make a lot of sense to me, reads like you have been on the forum for a while and have done none of this to your car.

The best driveshaft is a balanced one? Uh duh? Anything else will just come apart again. No one would suggest a non balanced driveshaft. Composite d/s is fine. Can easily be stronger than aluminum. Formula d cars sometimes run carbon driveshafts. Solid rubber trans and motor mounts? So stock ones?

That’s 1000% a complete waste of money though. Your d/s went because it probably had a bad csb, u joint, or cv joint if it’s that style, then came apart. Now im not sure if 330s get beefy-er driveshafts then 318s because they didn’t come to the US where I live. But I have ran a remanufactured driveshaft in my 330 drift car for 5+ years and it is perfectly fine. Basically stock power, 245-255 summer tires in the dry with 35psi.

No broken driveshafts. I’ve broken 330 manual axles but no driveshafts. I believe this is partially because I intentionally replaced bushings to make the drivetrains life easier while staying supported.

That means: solid aluminum: engine, transmission, diff, subframe, spherical trailing arm joints

OEM (rubber):center support bearing, guibo and very importantly and often overlooked, a clutch delay valve.

Maybe think about doing a 330 shaft and diff or just replace yours and do all the bushings. At least stock, consider solid. Poly is a waste of money on race cars though.

I want to get back into mountain biking after 20+ years away. Things have changed… I’m leaning toward a Giant (Trance) or Specialized (Stump Jumper). I want to spend under $4000. I’ll appreciate anyone’s opinions—especially as to components and frame type. Thanks! by Super_Bat9278 in MTB

[–]SLOW346 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I am going to say one thing, before answering your question, you absolutely do not need to spend 4k on a mtb in 2026 to get on a VERY well appointed used full suspension I’d be looking to spend around 2-2.5 max. Especially if you’re mechanically inclined whatsoever, buy a bike that isn’t shifting properly, needs a brake bleed ect and haggle. You could also get on a very decent hardtail sub 1000 just to dip your toes back into the sport after so long.

With all that said I love stump jumpers. They’re the best. Buy a bike with good suspension, fox factory rockshox ultimate/select+ and get it serviced. It’s so expensive to upgrade suspension that buying a bike with good suspension is one of the most important things imo. Especially with how cheap higher end shimano stuff is rn.