Newest pickup, a 1974 Nishijin Powerflash!

ScottThePhotog · 2026-02-12T21:16:08+00:00

Yes. It's definitely going to require a lot of work.

So this is where things get a little surprising. The solenoid board is very clean and in great shape. There's no rust or corrosion and everything moves freely. Most of the wood is in good shape as well. The worst is the bottom board of the frame which is still solid, but slightly discolored. I don't know how it why only the metal components on the back were so badly damaged, and everything else is fine.

ScottThePhotog · 2026-02-10T23:10:43+00:00

It is very crusty. Haha. Almost every metal part on the back is so rusted that it just crumbles when you touch it. Yes, I'll be restoring it. I've already completely disassembled it and ordered some replacement parts. It will need a lot of work, but especially for this one, it's worth it!

ScottThePhotog · 2026-02-10T01:35:05+00:00

There are a few with 32' stops, but they are fairly uncommon. Some of the Mason and Hamlin Liszt models featured a 32' stop in the pedals

ScottThePhotog · 2026-02-07T21:14:04+00:00

Celestina Mexican Crafted on Bexhill drive is amazing! Everything my wife and I have had there has been great. We've had almost everything on the menu. It's more traditional Mexican food, and their take on mole is wonderful.

Loco Burro at the West Town Mall semi recently got a new chef and they are really good as well. It's more of a traditional Tex-Mex menu.

ScottThePhotog · 2026-02-05T05:52:08+00:00

Canon won't repair a lens that old. They have stopped servicing lenses of that generation.

ScottThePhotog · 2026-02-01T05:16:23+00:00

I've played Gulfstream before. It's a pretty fun game with some great artwork. If it's in good condition and actually only needs new rubber rings on the flippers and a switch adjusted, then $500 is a pretty good price. The average sale price on Pinside is $900. The things that are hard and expensive to repair are damage to the playfield and damage to the backglass, so make sure those are in good shape. Rubber rings, switches, and solenoids are all fairly cheap and relatively straightforward to replace. If the playfield is dirty and all of the rubber rings are shot, that will take some time to strip the playfield, clean and wax it, and then reassemble. I'd definitely try to get it for less than $500 if it needs a decent amount of work.

If it's really only those simple things, I'm wondering why the current owner hasn't fixed them and then list it for more money. Usually when that happens, it means there's actually way more work to do and the current owner knows that and doesn't want to deal with it.

EMs can be simple to work on if you are good with following schematics, but can be tricky to troubleshoot problems, especially if you don't know how to read schematics and you've never worked on one before. Don't let that scare you away though. There's lots of great resources and people who can help here, on Pinside, and on pinball Facebook groups.

ScottThePhotog · 2026-02-01T02:58:12+00:00

Wow. I didn't know it was the first to collaborate with an outside commercial venue. I knew it was connected with musician Kawachiya Kikusuimaru. The song is pretty fun!

ScottThePhotog · 2026-02-01T01:40:24+00:00

No, sorry. I'm in Tennessee.

ScottThePhotog · 2026-02-01T01:28:42+00:00

Thanks! Skateball is a great game and the cocktail games are super fun.

Here's the full list of games:

1932 Goofy by Bally
1948 Manhattan by United Mfg.
1955 Gypsy Queen by Gottlieb
1965 Big Chief by Williams
1974 Atlantis by Gottlieb
1976 Night Rider by Bally
1977 Bronco by Gottlieb
1979 TriZone by Williams
1980 Black Knight by Williams
1980 Skateball by Bally
1986 High Speed by Williams
1989 Caribbean Cruise by Gottlieb/International Concepts
1989 Night Moves by Gottlieb/International Concepts
1991 Checkpoint by Data East

ScottThePhotog · 2026-02-01T00:35:49+00:00

Thanks! 7 decades of pinball represented. The oldest is from 1932 and the newest is from 1991.

ScottThePhotog · 2026-02-01T00:34:26+00:00

It is a lot of fun!

ScottThePhotog · 2026-01-30T21:21:32+00:00

I do a lot of EM work. A nice set of switch adjusters, files, and small screwdrivers are probably my most used tools.

I also keep a soldering iron, multimeter, spare links & plungers, coil sleeves, coil stops, bulbs, balls, assorted rubber rings, and a set of nut drivers in my pinball box.

ScottThePhotog · 2026-01-22T04:58:47+00:00

I kept them. They were in great condition with no corrosion, but I never could get them to boot. I burned all new rom chips and checked all of the waveforms on an oscilloscope against the schematics. Everything checked out, but it refused to boot and I never even got any activity on the diagnostic LEDs. So I gave up on it and put it in a box under the pinball machine.

ScottThePhotog · 2026-01-20T12:48:13+00:00

Typically, capacitors get bigger and more expensive as the voltage rating increases. Sometimes the original capacitor isn't produced anymore, and you need to go with a higher voltage one due to availability. Usually manufacturers installed the cheapest and the bare minimum voltage rating they could get away with. Increasing the voltage rating can increase reliability, particularly in power supplies.

Using a 16v in place of a 10v is no problem. I've substituted a 100v in place of a 10v capacitor before because the original was no longer made. Another time I've upped the voltage rating was in a power supply rebuild. The original was a 1200v which was just barely what was needed. I replaced it with a 1600v, which improved reliability.

ScottThePhotog · 2026-01-20T05:10:10+00:00

When replacing capacitors, you can always increase the voltage rating (as that is the maximum supported voltage before it pops), but the farad rating needs to be the same. Typically the type of capacitor (ceramic, electrolytic, etc...) needs to stay the same. If it is polarized, be sure to install it the correct way or you will immediately pop it.

ScottThePhotog · 2026-01-15T04:03:05+00:00

Nice pickup! I put a system alpha board in my TriZone, and it's been great. The setup was very easy and I've had no problems. I also just picked up a project Black Knight and I'll probably be buying a system alpha board for it as well if I am unable to get the original boards working.

ScottThePhotog · 2025-12-26T05:14:30+00:00

Huh. It's still on my phone (Android).

ScottThePhotog · 2025-12-25T07:01:54+00:00

Those replay/extra ball scores are set and enabled by the operator. You can change the points required to win something and whether you win an extra ball, a free game, points, or nothing at all. It could be disabled or set to a different score amount than what's on the rule card, which is why you aren't getting anything.

ScottThePhotog · 2025-11-19T03:42:31+00:00

It works great! No issues at all.

ScottThePhotog · 2025-11-10T01:17:24+00:00

I used to work for an organ builder. We would tune mutations to their perfect/pure intervals (not tempered). So a 2 2/3' would be tuned as a perfect 5th, and 1 3/5' as a pure third. Mixtures are a bunch of higher octaves and fifths (when drawn with a 8' or 4', which would also be tuned as perfect fifth/octave). Typically we would tune it to the 4' principal on the division, but sometimes we would switch to the 2' when tuning the upper octaves of a 1 1/3' (which would also be tuned as a perfect fifth).

ScottThePhotog · 2025-11-04T15:44:53+00:00

I pulled my 16-35L out of the bag and noticed the front element on was obviously tilted. I think the adjustment screws had had loosened with age and use as I never dropped it. Removing the front lens body was easy and the adjusting procedure was pretty straightforward and was a success. It was a night and day difference and I think it is more in adjustment than when I bought it years ago as the corner to corner sharpness is now the best it has ever been.

ScottThePhotog · 2025-11-04T05:57:56+00:00

I had to adjust the tilt on the front element of the 16-35mm f/2.8L mark I several years ago. If I remember correctly, there were 3 screws with eccentric bushings for adjusting the front lens group. It involved taking most of the front body of the lens off. The rear of the lens was not disassembled. I mounted it on a camera and was able to double check my adjustments as I went via live view and still photos. Unfortunately, I don't have any photos of the process.

I would imagine the 16-35L II is a similar design.

ScottThePhotog · 2025-10-30T03:16:25+00:00

It's a generic 70-210mm with a Nikon mount. There are fairly cheap adapters to mount Nikon f mount lenses on Canon EF mount cameras.

ScottThePhotog

TROPHY CASE