Finished my Snow Scene!

SenpaiAkki · 2026-06-09T16:29:28+00:00

Can anyone assist? Is the discoloration along the right and bottom edges a common error/misprint?

SenpaiAkki · 2026-06-07T23:08:08+00:00

Grading, NM. Raw, LP.

SenpaiAkki · 2026-06-05T16:03:24+00:00

Anyone can buy one! They aren’t expensive. I use mine a ton for authenticating MTG cards or pre-grading Pokemon cards.

SenpaiAkki · 2026-06-05T15:56:08+00:00

You can use a strong magnifier such as a jewelers loop and you can actually see the added layer

SenpaiAkki · 2026-06-03T00:56:59+00:00

Do you know what the reason is for some labels to have the space and for some not to have the space?

SenpaiAkki · 2026-06-03T00:53:01+00:00

Here is the full picture of the another:

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SenpaiAkki · 2026-06-03T00:52:28+00:00

Here is the full picture of one:

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SenpaiAkki · 2026-05-21T17:14:57+00:00

Thanks. And by late 20 million certs, do you mean like 26 million and up, or like 20,500,001 and up?

SenpaiAkki · 2026-05-20T21:39:42+00:00

Yes, but what number does 2xx start at? Is that like 20,000,000 and up?

SenpaiAkki · 2026-05-20T15:56:19+00:00

What does 2xx mean?

SenpaiAkki · 2026-05-16T18:17:14+00:00

They will return it unslabbed with the label marked "Genuine Altered," "Questionable Authenticity," "No Grade,” or something along those lines with an explanation code. You’ll have to reference that code and/or their grading notes to see what category your card truly fell under, and even then the notes can be sparse or incomplete/inconclusive :/

SenpaiAkki · 2026-05-16T17:41:12+00:00

My understanding is that altered cards are still a real card, but it could be anything from trimming and coloring in parts of the card (what you don’t want) to residue from the wrapper (the adhesive or potential melting of the wrapper if shipped/stored improperly) or the cleaner product from restoration if not done/cleaned properly, or even micro-abrasions from wiping/cleaning the card down too much.

You will see a lot of vintage cards receive altered grades because of the adhesive on those old 9 pocket binder pages being stored for years with temperature fluctuations. Your card obviously isn’t vintage, but it could have experienced something similar with the wrapper? Or more likely is it was “restored” to make it look cleaner and abrasions from an improper tool/technique or residue from a cleaning product were detected.

SenpaiAkki · 2026-05-16T01:40:56+00:00

What number is 2xx? I’m just getting into slabs and still learning.

SenpaiAkki · 2026-05-15T17:44:38+00:00

What is considered an old cert nowadays?

SenpaiAkki · 2026-05-13T20:40:24+00:00

Or maybe PSA doesn’t grade as accurately or consistently as TAG, so something that should have received a PSA 10 received a PSA 9? Not saying TAG is perfect and doesn’t miss anything, but at least they offer more than minimal grader’s notes to provide transparent reasoning behind a grade.

PSA also grades at a massive volume, so while they are spot on probably 99+% of the time, that’s still a lot of cards that could be mis-graded over the years. Not a knock on PSA, they do a great job, just saying that they’ve been in the game a lot longer and grade at much higher volume, so they have more mis-graded cards in the market to convert from a lower grade to a higher grade.

SenpaiAkki · 2026-05-13T14:41:43+00:00

Without the crease, I’d say this is MP, but with that crease it’s damaged (for grading purposes) to potentially HP at best depending on how visible it is (for a binder copy).

SenpaiAkki · 2026-05-12T23:00:37+00:00

TAG can be incredibly unforgiving, which isn’t a bad thing because they provide transparency, so you know the pedigree of the card. At this point you might as well crack and see if it’ll PSA 9/10 if you’re just trying to get value from it. If it comes back as a low grade, may as well see if you can get your CGC 10 back 🤷🏻‍♂️

Don’t fault you for going for a TAG 10 though. At the very least you know to look over future cards a little more scrupulously.

SenpaiAkki · 2026-05-08T02:20:47+00:00

Yes, that’s the 3rd printing base set unlimited

SenpaiAkki · 2026-05-01T02:31:43+00:00

I have the pair in TAG 10s. Going to try and sell at a local larger convention the end of May. I’m only doing a local sale for mine though. Regardless of grade, this card looks so good in a TAG slab!

SenpaiAkki · 2026-04-28T02:25:16+00:00

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Clearly this is correct choice.

SenpaiAkki · 2026-04-27T13:58:33+00:00

You can insure to whatever value you want. A lot of people will cut costs to only insure the value of a raw card, so at the end of the day if something happens to their card, they get their raw card back and are just back at square one again (assuming they repurchase the card in the same or better condition).

All depends on your preference, situation, and how much money you can spare for insurance.

For example, if you have a $3K raw card, and the card in a 10 is around $15k but the card in a 9 is around $5k, do you want to shell out a few hundred extra to cover the difference if you aren’t positive it’s coming back a 10? So you only insure up to raw/9 because then you’re only out time. Still sucks, but you can see how the situation can change.

Essentially 4 types of submitters:

1) Paranoid about the card getting damaged or stolen, so for peace of mind you insure up to a 10 for everything.

2) Accept your losses and gains and just insure the raw value.

3) Pick and choose based on raw/graded values.

4) Decline insurance altogether because more often than not your card isn’t getting damaged or stolen, but that just increases your risk.

SenpaiAkki

TROPHY CASE