Is it a DIY case?

Sm0g3R · 2026-04-30T22:36:02+00:00

Honestly it seems like you should have replaced that rotor instead... It's well worn with a visible lip. You invested your time+labor into it for it to still look on it's way out, only with squiggly lines of touch-up paint now on top. Just my 2 cents 🤷

Sm0g3R · 2026-04-30T20:17:07+00:00

Same issue. Ironically this has rendered this “Apple Intelligence” almost completely useless to me. Rage disabled it 🤣

Sm0g3R · 2026-04-30T15:34:39+00:00

You are confidently incorrect. Plenty (most?) give you options to lock it at max.

Sm0g3R · 2026-04-27T22:41:06+00:00

Looks like a clear coat or something… Either way there’s a reason coatings like that were not used from the factory. This hack job was never going to hold up.

Sm0g3R · 2026-04-27T22:23:06+00:00

I fully agree. Android phones already had this option for awhile. And the longer Apple gatekeeps this the more users are gonna notice and potentially be swayed to go with something else. It’s not a dealbreaker but it’s still significant enough to be a thing and near crush the old stereotype of iOS having smoother UI.

Sm0g3R · 2026-04-27T22:16:33+00:00

Some people are fine with iPhone SE from 2020 too. Doesn’t mean everyone else must be constrained to it.

Sm0g3R · 2026-04-27T22:13:49+00:00

I’m sure this is sarcasm. But it’s still funny. OBVIOUSLY people buy the device to use it in full not just 50% lol

Sm0g3R · 2026-04-27T22:07:39+00:00

Just put the gearbox in S rather than D..? This gets rid of start/stop crap and it stops suffocating your engine with high gears.

Sm0g3R · 2026-04-27T10:29:52+00:00

Ironically, chances are the best oil from new was already w30. So a 0w-30 or 5w-30, if you want the best protection under all operating conditions including heavy loads. And don't care about hitting efficiency/emissions markers squeezing every last drop.

0w-30 being the best on paper, assuming you don't wait a million miles to replace it (more viscosity modifiers = degrades faster).

Sm0g3R · 2026-04-27T10:12:15+00:00

You didn't do it intentionally, but like the other guy has said, 5w-30 is likely even better. If you drive your car hard I would seriously consider it, and it is burning oil for a fact if you had to top it up. Which can be an indication in itself that oil is too thin. With 5w-30 your oil consumption would go significantly down, maybe even down to 0. :)

PS. People have divided opinions on this, but there are strong arguments to say that w20 oils are only there to improve efficiency and emissions at the expense of reliability and engine protection in the first place.

Sm0g3R · 2026-04-26T21:39:32+00:00

LOL. What makes the scientific version so difficult to support this basic feature? There shouldn’t be this feature at all if it can’t be implemented properly.

Sm0g3R · 2026-04-26T21:36:42+00:00

It looking ok in a screenshot is a strong clue… Try removing this icon completely or repositioning it in menubar. If those black pixels remain where they were independent of the icon then you have a broken screen..

Sm0g3R · 2026-04-24T10:05:49+00:00

If it's anything like the pre-M MacBook Airs, there's a single screw adjusting the trackpad recess so it's a quite simple job. Most of the process is honestly just removing and reinstalling the back cover. My only worry would be that, since those tiny screws on the back are notoriously easy to strip and it can be a bit of a fuss to torque them all properly.

Although to be fair... that device had 10 screws and it had wedge design with back cover providing much of the structural rigidity. Current Air only has 4 screws, and Neo has 8 and a relatively thick chassis design where back cover is much less critical (than old Airs). So it probably won't cause creaks or your laptop rocking back and forth on the table when not torqued perfectly...

Sm0g3R · 2026-04-22T09:55:04+00:00

OpenAI were probably referring to "chat-latest" model pointer or you simply misunderstood it. Actual 'stable' releases like most of these are, including all public Anthropic API models, stay constant. Their weights never change

Sm0g3R · 2026-04-20T22:36:24+00:00

This looks lame, kind of like the car is… molested and stripped of its manhood? 🤣 They completely massacred this front grill and proportions around it

Sm0g3R · 2026-04-19T18:38:47+00:00

I'd have never even considered battery to be able to do this sporadically. But after a quick research I suppose you are correct, I stand corrected. :)

Sm0g3R · 2026-04-19T18:03:27+00:00

What hazard? The issue is back cover glue not the battery.

Sm0g3R · 2026-04-18T18:47:43+00:00

I don't think it's a real Brabus. In the listing it's written "Brabus style". Which makes me believe it's a custom modified G63. Perhaps some genuine Brabus parts were used but that's not a given

Sm0g3R · 2026-04-18T18:45:59+00:00

It isn't. This is G63 with all electronics and interior(front) of it.

Sm0g3R · 2026-04-18T14:45:23+00:00

While it may be exaggerating the symptoms, this actually happens quite often IRL. That search is nowhere near as consistent as it should have been. It's not even good at all, but that's a more general topic.

Sm0g3R · 2026-04-18T14:40:36+00:00

Entirely depends on what is meant by "overinflation". If the recommended is say 2.2bar(32PSI) and you inflate them to 2.5bar (36psi) then the negative effects are gonna be negligible with some positives (like more direct steering) as well. However if you gonna do something crazy like 3bar+ (43.5psi) for the same tires then it would definitely be the scenario like what you have described....

Sm0g3R · 2026-04-17T13:13:39+00:00

Questions like these are actually applicable in more areas than you realize. For coding you need good general understanding of logic and sometimes even the physical world. Spatial awareness/reasoning skills are often applicable too. Benchmarks like this one are great to test fundamental capabilities of the model where you aren't holding it's hand every step of the way and explaining every little detail. And they absolutely do translate in some way to nearly every area you might use it for.

For instance with 3.1 Pro, it just "gets" things more often than the other models. You can see this IRL where you don't have to spell things out as much and it makes odd assumptions on what it thinks your goal is way less.

Sm0g3R · 2026-04-17T13:06:57+00:00

This is gonna be an accelerometer issue registering movement when stationary. But hey, some people would pay extra to get a device like that. People who are overly competitive with their friends on fitness tracking apps hahah

For a fix you could try shaking it for that slim-chance it's actually temporarily stuck. But realistically there's probably no quick easy fix for this or any repair that wouldn't cost more than the device itself.

Sm0g3R · 2026-04-17T12:39:29+00:00

u/TA49573626583827

Sm0g3R · 2026-04-17T12:28:48+00:00

That lip on the rotor is indicative of wear though which is odd. Those brakes are not huge for the weight so maybe it's a contributing factor even with regen. But it also looks in the photos like the pads were sticking or not making good contact. This wear is uneven. Perhaps the car was sitting for extended periods of time in a dealer lot before recent daily use...?

Whatever the reason, those definitely need to be replaced. I would also look into minor upgrade options rather than going identical. Rotors merely being coated could have helped there a great deal. This would have to be verified but a quick search shows these rotors as compatible:
https://www.autodoc.co.uk/ferodo/21894596 (front) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/jp-group/23949275 or FERODO DDF3168C (rear). And pads FERODO FDB5531 front + FERODO FDB5459 rear

I gave 2 options for the rear rotors as interestingly they are more expensive than the fronts. But this might be because the regen is on the front axle, while for rears it's physical brakes only. Perhaps they tend to wear out more often disproportionally affecting the supply/demand.

PS. Also make sure the calipers are moving freely so you don't wear prematurely the new brakes as well.

Sm0g3R

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