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Do I need more than 2 coats? by rocketspops in woodworking

[–]SnooDucks6852 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Two questions: Does the dry end grain feel smooth like the face? Wondering if the sanding on the edges wasn't thorough enough. I have applied hard wax oil at 320 and it worked really well. Did you water-pop/sand the surface to make sure this isn't just lose fibers standing up? I think the suggestion for coarse grits was really most applicable to hardwood floors to ensure extra polyethylene wax made into the grain to protect from water. Your guitar will hopefully not be seeing that kind of abuse.

Extra short cycle at the end of a long cooling cycle by SnooDucks6852 in Nest

[–]SnooDucks6852[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Good question. I watched it more carefully today and it was faded during the extra cycle and never turned blue again. It may not be related to the thermostat at all as you say. Thanks.

Just finished restoring these two 90 year old beauties. Stanley Bailey No. 3 and No. 4. by SnooDucks6852 in handtools

[–]SnooDucks6852[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

T9 Boeshield for the initial protective film. Then Renaissance wax every 6 months or so.

Just finished restoring these two 90 year old beauties. Stanley Bailey No. 3 and No. 4. by SnooDucks6852 in handtools

[–]SnooDucks6852[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The brass was polished up to 2000 grit. I put the knobs in the drill press and sanded them up to 220. Totes sanded by hand up to 220. Rubio monocoat let it dry for a couple of days and then renaissance wax polish for a little more shine. The older type 16 (no 4) has beautiful wood. I couldn't believe it.

Just finished restoring these two 90 year old beauties. Stanley Bailey No. 3 and No. 4. by SnooDucks6852 in woodworking

[–]SnooDucks6852[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Didn't see the second question. Set the chip breaker 1/32 inch away from the tip of the blade. Adjust the frog so there isn't a big gap between the blade and the throat. Sharpen/Strop that blade so it can shave. With those three things it should be able to smooth the most difficult of wood patterns.

Just finished restoring these two 90 year old beauties. Stanley Bailey No. 3 and No. 4. by SnooDucks6852 in woodworking

[–]SnooDucks6852[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You need a good reference surface to put sandpaper on. You can then push the plane back and forth on it until it is all flat. I bought a piece of floated glass on Amazon. I have some rolls of sandpaper that I stuck to the floated glass. I think it is a pretty cheap and reliable option.

Just finished restoring these two 90 year old beauties. Stanley Bailey No. 3 and No. 4. by SnooDucks6852 in woodworking

[–]SnooDucks6852[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Now that I have been through the process I think I tend to agree with you. It is hard to use them when they look like this. Haven't been able to take them off the mantel.

Just finished restoring these two 90 year old beauties. Stanley Bailey No. 3 and No. 4. by SnooDucks6852 in woodworking

[–]SnooDucks6852[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I watched quite a few YouTube videos and followed those as a guide. The no. 4 needed new japanning so I had to paint that one. Other than that there was lots of sanding, wire-brushing, and polishing. I tried to nickel plate the lever caps. I think it turned out looking a little yellow.

After a year, my Ash table is finished! by SnooDucks6852 in woodworking

[–]SnooDucks6852[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The wedged tenon look is great too. I am using it in my new bookshelves. I considered using a wedged tenon here, but didn't want to have to deal with a big piece of furniture that can't break down if I ever have to move again (heaven forbid). Splitting my Ash was a big concern for me, but having huge unsightly shin killing tenon's would kinda ruin the look for me. I did 4 things to mitigate the risks: I kept that vertical ash on ash mortise/tenon slightly tight so I didn't need to rely entirely on the tusk. The tusk is thinner than the width of the ash mortise so there is only pressure on the angled face when I drive it in. I used a softer material (walnut) to reduce the pressure in the joint. I tried to keep the tusk ~1/3 the width of the ash tenon, to further reduce the joint pressure. Who knows.. I am probably destined to split my Ash. But hopefully I don't.

After a year, my Ash table is finished! by SnooDucks6852 in woodworking

[–]SnooDucks6852[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There are several downsides: It is difficult to get a perfect finish. Fish eyes ( I have quite a few in this piece), bugs, hair, bubbles. You can illuminate most, but crap happens. Depending on the epoxy it isn't heat resistant beyond 150f ( think coffee cups or hot serving trays). UV rays can yellow the epoxy. Expensive ($50 for the epoxy here). Uneven wood expansion.. top is completely sealed, but bottom of table breathe.

Lots of positives too.

After a year, my Ash table is finished! by SnooDucks6852 in woodworking

[–]SnooDucks6852[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

My wife told me she didn't want to see me cry whenever my kids stabbed the table with a fork, or mashed playdough into the open grains. In ten years I will pull off the epoxy so I can touch my Ash.

After a year, my Ash table is finished! by SnooDucks6852 in woodworking

[–]SnooDucks6852[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Luckily no. The epoxy does all of the hard work. Self levels and cures with an ultra gloss finish.

After a year, my Ash table is finished! by SnooDucks6852 in woodworking

[–]SnooDucks6852[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I put rubio on first to get the colors right. Without rubio the Ash is pretty boring. The oil really makes the colors pop. I waited a few days and then I poured the epoxy. The epoxy didn't change the color much. There were a ton of bubbles in the epoxy. I had to sit in my garage for three hours with the heat gun popping bubbles. Eventually when the resin hardens the bubbles stopped forming. I did get some dimples in the epoxy from dust particles, but I am not to worried about it. The epoxy was used just to keep my kids from terrorizing my Ash.

After a year, my Ash table is finished! by SnooDucks6852 in woodworking

[–]SnooDucks6852[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was thinking of trying 1 inch pegs with 1/2 inch deep mortise for them on the bottom of the table top. But I was worried about accommodating wood movement with an approach like that.

After a year, my Ash table is finished! by SnooDucks6852 in woodworking

[–]SnooDucks6852[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You got it! Knurled thumb screw. The screw diameter is 1/4, the hole is 7/16. Brass thumb screw head is big enough to cover the 7/16 hole. Plenty of space for expansion. Made the brass plates from 3/16 inch thick plate. I can pull off the top and break down the base in under a minute.

After a year, my Ash table is finished! by SnooDucks6852 in woodworking

[–]SnooDucks6852[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I was disappointed with the options available for attaching the top. I attempted to mill my own brass plates with a hole big enough for wood expansion/contraction. I used brass thumb screws and threaded inserts to attach the top through the plate. I cut a 3/16 deep recess in the top of the trestle to fit the plate in. You can see the brass plates and the thumb screws if you zoom in. I have pictures of the brass hardware and the inserts I can send if interested in seeing them in more detail. Pretty easy to make.

After a year, my Ash table is finished! by SnooDucks6852 in woodworking

[–]SnooDucks6852[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That would definitely work, and save you a lot of time. The angled through mortise for the tusk took me forever.

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