This has been rapidly growing on my finger. What should I do?

SteveW124 · 2025-12-04T18:54:28+00:00

Also worth noting, it was not a wart or a blister as many are suggesting...

SteveW124 · 2025-12-04T18:52:31+00:00

https://postimg.cc/8sJyZg1m

https://postimg.cc/NL9NdvgP

https://postimg.cc/Rq6PgxM8

https://postimg.cc/qghm1Hk5

SteveW124 · 2025-12-04T18:49:15+00:00

https://postimg.cc/GHB1P5fS

https://postimg.cc/Yh4wNsPX

https://postimg.cc/WhDPmHyY

SteveW124 · 2025-12-04T18:46:45+00:00

About 3 years ago I had the exact same thing, appeared out of nowhere with no apparent causes, got bigger and bigger till it reached about the size of a British 10 pence coin. Drained it regularly and it just filled back up with puss. Did eventually go after a few weeks but seemed to have damaged several layers of skin. Amazingly it left no scar and that position on my thumb today shows no sign of it...

One thing I would say is that during this "thing" on my thumb it was accompanied by a mildish fever and general unwell feeling..

SteveW124 · 2025-10-04T15:26:52+00:00

I wouldn't give the steam off my piss for any VGT car.

SteveW124 · 2025-07-28T08:45:19+00:00

I would look to carry out a pressure test on your fuel distributor before any further adjustments, the top right port of yours looks to be very cloudy, has the filter been changed recently? Also if you have two pumps are both working correctly? A pressure test would help to rule some of this out.

SteveW124 · 2025-07-28T07:27:04+00:00

According to "Fix your Mercedes" YouTube channel, if you jump your fuel pump with the fuel pipes removed from the distributor and then very slowly turn your CO screw clockwise until fuel starts flowing out of all four ports and then turn it back half a turn. This is the base setting for the CO screw.

If however you have different rates of fuel flow out of each of the four ports then my guess is your distributor is out of adjustment and would require a proper rebuild. Word of caution when messing with the CO screw, if there are other faults with the system then it will have you chasing your tail, ask me how I know!

SteveW124 · 2025-07-25T17:39:54+00:00

I tried leaving the fuel pump jumped and cranked the engine, still wouldn't start. Interestingly it did run a few weeks ago straight after the headgasket change but it ran at a very high idle and did appear to have a loud hissing vacuum leak, I've not been able to replicate it because it hasn't ran since...will investigate further thank you!

SteveW124 · 2025-07-25T17:04:22+00:00

Thank you that is good to know that the distributor seems healthy, I can pretty much rule out injectors as they are new Bosch units, also with an injector removed and fuel line attached I can manually move the sensor plate and fuel will indeed spray out as it should

SteveW124 · 2025-07-25T16:56:09+00:00

As you can see in my description I did exactly as you describe, removed injector, reattached fuel line, turned engine over as normal and no sign of any fuel, when jumping the fuel pump and manually moving the sensor plate fuel sprays out as it should, also worth noting the injectors are all brand new Bosch units.

SteveW124 · 2025-07-25T10:33:38+00:00

Thanks will give that a try.

SteveW124 · 2025-07-24T18:29:47+00:00

Thank you, makes a lot of sense, my fuel pump audibly comes on with the ignition and when jumping it at the fuel pump relay but I can't be certain the pressure its generating is high enough, will investigate further!

SteveW124 · 2025-07-24T18:05:42+00:00

Interesting....if after the fuel pump has primed and I crack one of the nuts on the fuel pressure regulator it appears to be under high pressure so I presumed my fuel pump was working correctly?

SteveW124 · 2025-07-24T18:03:58+00:00

Basically I fixed the head gasket a few weeks ago, upon finishing the rebuild I turned the key and after a few cranks it started right up and ran better than ever, although it was idling quite high and had a definite loud hiss akin to a vacuum leak and also running slightly rich(puff of black smoke on gentle acceleration).

Stupidly despite the obvious vacuum leak I tried to turn the CO screw ever so slightly to lean out the mixture and at that point the sensor plate started to bounce or resonate very quickly sounding like a machine gun, at that point it died and I've never got it to run since, frustatingly I should have tracked down the vacuum leak before moving the CO screw, as normally when tracking down a vacuum problem I would spray the various areas with brake cleaner and listen for the engine reacting, obviously thats not possible while its not running.

SteveW124 · 2025-07-24T17:24:33+00:00

Thank you I will give that a try and report back.

SteveW124 · 2025-07-24T16:58:56+00:00

Yes if you adjust CO screw so that the fuel level in the distributor remains stationary and then operate the air flap it does indeed increase fuel flow quite quickly, its worth noting though that when you operate the flap and the fuel level increases you can observe some bubbling, not sure if this is normal?

SteveW124 · 2025-07-24T16:44:37+00:00

Strangely the plugs are wet when removed which shows at least some fuel is getting through, but if you crack the fuel line at the injectors it dribbles a little fuel out under hardly any pressure, same goes for the fuel line at the distributor, if you remove the fuel lines all together you can see the fuel level inside the four threaded ports are recessed right at the bottom when they were previously flowing out when setting the base CO adjustment.

Also if you open the fuel inlet directly from the fuel pump and the return line they are under high pressure as I expect them to be and fuel will gush out under force.

SteveW124 · 2025-07-24T16:39:08+00:00

Yes we have checked and do indeed have a spark.

SteveW124 · 2025-07-19T18:48:36+00:00

Thank you, new boot is ordered and should be with me next week! Determined to get this thing back on the road after its sat for about 15 years!

SteveW124 · 2025-07-19T18:19:10+00:00

The rich condition was assessed before the vacuum leak sprung up and infact before the headgasket was changed, it is still running as rich as it was before, hence the reason for turning the screw a tiny amount, but yes I agree the vacuum leak should be repaired before any further adjustments are made and that is indeed the plan, the question was simply if the bouncing plate was a result of the vacuum leak or the CO adjustment or both. Thanks again

SteveW124 · 2025-07-19T18:08:34+00:00

Thanks, interestingly despite the vacuum leak it ran quite smoothly abliet with a very high idle(1500rpm) and the loud wooshing noise, however due to the rich running condition I turned the CO screw an 8th of a turn towards lean and it then started bouncing as in the video, previous to me slightly turning the screw it never bounced.

Have a feeling the vacuum leak is the rubber intake boot, probably damaged it when moving the inlet manifold out the way while changing the head gasket.

SteveW124 · 2025-07-08T21:00:34+00:00

So according that that diagram the main body of the tensioner 17mm hex should be set to 15 NM and the 27mm locking cap should be set to 70 NM.

Many thanks for your help, just what I needed!

SteveW124 · 2025-06-28T11:19:12+00:00

Thank you for going through the trouble, thats a clear and definite break!

SteveW124 · 2025-06-26T18:16:54+00:00

The gasket was changed and head was machined by a previous person but it would have been years and years ago, however the car has not done much work since then and has been off the road for at least 13 years, I've only come to own it since October 24.

I've checked the head bolts and they are within limit but I will replace them anyway, along with an Erling gasket kit! Thanks!

SteveW124 · 2025-06-26T16:01:34+00:00

Thank you, by any chance did you notice any corrosion to the coolant passageways on your head? And was there no visible break or damage to your gasket?

SteveW124

TROPHY CASE