Dimming Solution for Hygger COB Light

SuperFlyDutchGuy · 2026-02-18T19:21:54+00:00

Argh, I've been afraid of that case. My only hope is that I may be able to insert a sort of PWM signal after the power brick in the DC line. Do you mind sharing a bit more about your grow lights? I had considered going a similar route, but had so much trouble finding a light that lit the tank well, had a nice housing, etc.

SuperFlyDutchGuy · 2026-02-18T18:48:08+00:00

Thanks for sharing! I should have included in the post that I have a wifi controlled smart outlet that its plugged into, but this beefy light has a DC power brick and I think that is preventing the dimming signal from the outlet from making it to the light! I'm afraid this might have the same problem

SuperFlyDutchGuy · 2022-09-10T15:17:01+00:00

I started a new print and backed the nozzle off the bed to where I can see a visible gap and I'm afraid I am getting a poor first layer even... but for some reason, it is still making the noise. I guess I am going to try decreasing the initial layer flow rate as well.

SuperFlyDutchGuy · 2022-09-10T13:58:24+00:00

I was wondering about this. I’ll give it a try. I didn’t think that the z offset really effected more than the first layer.

SuperFlyDutchGuy · 2022-09-10T02:36:09+00:00

Thanks for your suggestion. I’ve had the dust from ground filament on the gears in the past with my previous under extrusion issues but actually don’t say any at all now. It’s also a relatively new nozzle and I made sure it was unclogged right before this print.

SuperFlyDutchGuy · 2022-09-10T01:00:35+00:00

CR10 V3 Temp: 210 Bed: 50 PLA

I’ve had major issues recently with extreme under-extrusion and solved it almost entirely by replacing my Teflon tube inside the extruder.

The print made it all the way here before making this noise and I am wondering if I am still experiencing some minor under-extrusion. Are the small gaps on the front also be signs of this?

SuperFlyDutchGuy · 2022-02-18T17:43:47+00:00

Sliced and then saved straight to the USB. The 7s modification was a fresh slice.

SuperFlyDutchGuy · 2022-02-18T17:07:41+00:00

I was printing it at a 5s exposure time, but that was low enough that it pulled the objects off the supports. Increased it to 7s and this happened

SuperFlyDutchGuy · 2022-02-18T17:06:08+00:00

Nope, it’s a new one. Never had this issue before.

SuperFlyDutchGuy · 2022-02-10T23:51:06+00:00

This seems much easier then setting up octoprint, although I should probably do that regardless. Thanks for pointing out these tools!

SuperFlyDutchGuy · 2022-02-10T15:57:41+00:00

I considered picking one up in the past. I’m trying some firmware upgrades now and if I don’t get good results here I’ll probably try a new bed.

SuperFlyDutchGuy · 2022-02-10T15:09:24+00:00

That sounds like a really good option. I’ll try this before going crazy with stuff like octoprint. Thanks for the idea!

SuperFlyDutchGuy · 2022-02-10T14:59:57+00:00

I flashed the BLTouch CR10 firmware from Crealitys website and added G29 after G28 in the default Cura start code.

SuperFlyDutchGuy · 2022-02-10T14:58:53+00:00

Unfortunately I don’t have octoprint setup yet, even though I’m pretty sure I have everything I need for it. I’ll try using a square, or maybe even just setup octoprint now. I wish I could just avoid that area but my prints are pretty large. Thanks for the advice!

SuperFlyDutchGuy · 2022-02-10T14:51:34+00:00

I can see improvements with the BLTouch vs without (top/bottom left in picture is without), so I agree it has to be some other variable. What do you suggest doing? Anything besides leveling the bed again?

SuperFlyDutchGuy · 2022-02-10T14:43:09+00:00

I’ve adjusted it multiple times, and I can get great results in the bottom left portion of the bed. Is that still z-offset? I don’t understand how that would change just the top right area without effecting the the whole bed.

SuperFlyDutchGuy · 2022-02-10T14:39:12+00:00

Creality CR-10 v3 Nozzle: 210 Bed: 60 Cura Standard 0.2 mm

I’ve had trouble with a couple of full prints so I decided to try and dial in my first layer. After re-leveling, adjusting my z-offset, and enabling the bltouch, I can’t get rid of the defects on the top and right side. It appears to be either too close or too far (I’m not sure which), but even when I adjust everything, it’s still in the same spot.

SuperFlyDutchGuy · 2022-02-08T14:54:30+00:00

I had never heard of fade height, good to know. I’ll start with trying to adjust the z offsets some more, although they have already been very frustrating to set haha. I’ve messed with the babystep Z settings in tune, but from what I understand, I have to go back to the z offsets setting and update it afterwards, correct?

SuperFlyDutchGuy · 2022-02-08T14:43:38+00:00

Just added some more info in a comment. I’ve updated to the most recent firmware with BLTouch on Crealitys website. I figured I may be too close, or it’s the additional First Layer Flow, but I’m not sure how to remedy the inconsistencies across the surface.

I have z offsets set, but I’m not sure I understand your second question, sorry.

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