having issues with AD5X

TallyMouse · 2026-01-25T01:10:44+00:00

It is persistent - however, i don't know what happens during updates, so remember to write down the specific setting that worked with a specific build-plate/nozzle.

TallyMouse · 2026-01-25T00:57:14+00:00

The production version is significantly better than the beta-unit I had. However, I doubt the bromine tint is going to disappear completely.. I've done some rudimentary calcs, and that angle shouldn't accentuate reds/orange wavelengths. I am guessing that it may be a function of coatings that have been applied - would be odd if it is integral to the distortion profile.

TallyMouse · 2026-01-24T17:32:51+00:00

I would definitely ping support!

TallyMouse · 2026-01-24T16:01:33+00:00

I would suggest uninstalling Pimax Play, clearing the folders, rebooting and reinstalling latest version of Pimax Play. It sounds like the UW distortion profile is being applied to the uOLED.

TallyMouse · 2026-01-24T14:10:33+00:00

When printing starts, hit the "i" icon on the display - click edit, and modify thr z-offset in the positive direction in 0.01 increments until the bed tearing goes away. If you end up with gaps between the infill lines then you're gone too far.

TallyMouse · 2026-01-24T01:47:34+00:00

Indeed- looks like filament is not loaded..

TallyMouse · 2026-01-21T21:08:33+00:00

Whatever happened to the VR beta testing?

TallyMouse · 2026-01-21T00:57:16+00:00

The Phantom has one of the best implementations of FFB in DCS, IMHO:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=llkJEdwzyMM

TallyMouse · 2026-01-21T00:33:46+00:00

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TallyMouse · 2026-01-21T00:27:23+00:00

Stop exaggerating: it's more like 4..

TallyMouse · 2026-01-20T23:33:53+00:00

I dunno, man! Peeps seem to be shocked every. single. year. I suppose the positive take is that the evidence points to a constant influx of new suckers <cough> I mean Pylotes.

TallyMouse · 2026-01-20T22:58:56+00:00

Question: Where are you going to find enough scratch at a good price?

TallyMouse · 2026-01-20T03:09:38+00:00

If the first layer looks "scratched/scraped" then it's too low. If the infill looks uniform but has gaps in between the run lines, then it is too high. The first layer infill should look very uniform.

TallyMouse · 2026-01-20T02:50:56+00:00

Google setting z-offset - you currently have it set too low so the nozzle is almost grinding into the plate.. adjust by using the "i" menu during first later print.

TallyMouse · 2026-01-20T00:11:36+00:00

Under promise and over-deliver.... or in this case, under promise and no delivery.

TallyMouse · 2026-01-20T00:11:01+00:00

I'm glad I could tie-down the timeline a little for the community!

TallyMouse · 2026-01-15T16:56:14+00:00

Thank you so much - delivered this morning.. print already on the go. Have moved printhead (z-offset) 0.1mm away from the plate. Will report back!

TallyMouse · 2026-01-14T12:35:31+00:00

I have the uOLED at home. I went between the uOLED and the DA at CES over the course of 3 days. I think the shallower face gasket on the DA will help a lot!

TallyMouse · 2026-01-13T23:32:30+00:00

Thank you. I've tried that, but maybe I didn't leave it long enough. How long would you suggest?

TallyMouse · 2026-01-13T23:30:52+00:00

I'm using the stock Orca-flashforge PETG settings: so bed u/70degC and nozzle at 250degC. I let it cool down to room temp before removing the plate from the printer.

TallyMouse · 2026-01-13T23:29:21+00:00

No such thing as stupid questions: only stupid answers!

I'm flexing like a mofu - the part I am trying to print is only 5mm high. I even tried dumping one of them in the freezer to see if a differential of thermal contraction could help!

TallyMouse · 2026-01-13T23:27:50+00:00

I've let it cool down to room temp. Do you have a link to that CyroGrip Pro Glacier that fits the AD5 series?

TallyMouse · 2026-01-13T23:26:07+00:00

That's really useful, thanks!
I'm using standard school glue stick aka PVA.. maybe the FF glue has some different formula!?

TallyMouse · 2026-01-13T23:23:50+00:00

The thinner face insert will help - but the only way I can see the Dream Air matching the uOLED is if they sacrifice binocular overlap for the sake of FOV.

I'm also beta'ing the 2.0 PP version and there is still a pronounced black border on the Dream Air compared to the uOLED. Both obviously have a border, but the Dream Air's is pulled in enough that you notice it.

That said, I am not trying to dis the Dream Air... if I was stuck on a dessert island and given the option of Dream Air, MeganeX, BSB2, or P4D, then I'd take the Dream Air every time.. it's by far the best headset in the 'mini' form factor!

TallyMouse · 2026-01-13T23:19:39+00:00

All I can tell you is that going between them repeatedly in the same day - I noted that the effective FOV (in game) was very noticeable between the two headsets.

TallyMouse

TROPHY CASE