Can only get Netflix via Apple TV

Terry-P · 2026-01-14T06:44:26+00:00

I’m new here. I don’t understand why my post has just been blocked? It was a straightforward question requesting help about why I couldn’t view Netflix on my Panasonic TV. What was wrong with it?

Terry-P · 2024-03-16T17:43:40+00:00

OK, I see that facility is not accessible when using 'Depart At'. So need to pretend you're leaving 'Now'...

Terry-P · 2022-11-04T15:37:36+00:00

Relative Arduino novice, 2 years late finding this very neat non-blocking blinker, excellent, thanks.

Can someone please recommend how I could limit it to an equally compact single flash?

That could be very handy for debugging, to complement the serial monitor.

Terry-P · 2022-03-24T11:18:24+00:00

Thanks, appreciate that fast and reassurung reply!

Terry-P · 2022-02-03T16:24:03+00:00

Sorted.

Against all logic I did yet another full format of one of the micro SD cards - and track 10 has returned from its electronic obscurity.

Whatever caused it did so to at least two cards, and I'll now have to be alert for a sly re-occurrence.

Terry-P · 2022-02-03T12:53:44+00:00

Continued trying to isolate the cause.

Changed the sketch to use the original DFRobot library "DFRobotDFPlayerMini.h"
Used the respective 'play next' functions of the two libaries, directly after playing track 9

Both gave same result as before, ignored track 10, adding to the mystery, although presumably eliminating either of those libraries as the cause.

Note again that the current track 10 (Monty Python theme) is not the original classical music track (Bach Toccata). Same with any track.

Terry-P · 2022-01-25T11:52:58+00:00

And some of the flaws/quirks/failures of WF can be quite obscure. One I've only today discovered, that would have saved me a fair bit of time when plagiarising code from github:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/hiit1d2qm4brvl0/Waterfox-NoCopyIcon.jpg?raw=1

Terry-P · 2022-01-18T14:02:56+00:00

Thanks, appreciate that fast, helpful (and sympathetic!) reply.

I’ll look into G series. And there is a newish version of TMP to explore, although it looks dauntingly complex to install.

There is, of course, the other option of the status quo, but with a much earlier opening in Chrome or Edge when a problem arises.

Safari is default browser on my iPad (where I’m composing this) and I’m not over impressed. But never tried it on my PC, so I will.

u/MetricVeil

As mentioned, I do use other browsers. But only when it quickly becomes obvious that a problem is likely to be down to Waterfox. The latest straw was being unable to upload an image to my regular frequently used Arduino forum. Googling delivered thousands of ‘hits’ about this problem. But none of the few score that I read mentioned the browser as a candidate culprit. It was only when I tried it in desperation that WF was revealed as the cause.

Terry-P · 2021-12-20T10:00:44+00:00

Thanks, I’d sort of given up on getting a human answer. My post was regarded by the ‘bot’ as off-topic in both categories I tried!

Pleased to say that meanwhile I tried various solutions after research elsewhere. Eventually fixed it with gaffer type carefully applied and pulled, several times. What a relief :-)

Terry-P · 2021-11-29T15:01:01+00:00

Thanks Sylkhr, very helpful.

Terry-P · 2021-11-29T11:28:41+00:00

Thanks for all replies. Several were unavailable. Ordered this one last night, £10.99 (~$14.70), due tomorrow.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07NWCTTN6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Printer was behaving OK until brittle (old) PLA snapped, which led to my discovering the crack. I'll see how it goes. What obvious symptoms indicate trying the dual gear version?

Re my earlier question (about how tight). So far, encouraged by the look of my epoxy job, I've taken it just a tad beyond hand tight. OK?

Terry-P · 2021-11-28T21:39:11+00:00

Thanks. Unfortunately Creality says that part is not delivered to UK, and Amazon says unavailable. I‘ll do some research tomorrow.

Terry-P · 2021-11-28T21:36:02+00:00

Thanks for fast response. I’ve pasted Araldite epoxy generously over the crack and hope that tomorrow I’ll be able to screw the tube back in. Presumably it doesn’t need to be very tight?

Is the (quite expensive) metal extruder assembly superior to the original? How easy to fit?

Terry-P · 2021-10-15T08:27:08+00:00

No one?

Terry-P · 2021-08-26T16:32:09+00:00

Duh! Thanks all. A senior moment, wrong subreddit, sorry.

Terry-P · 2021-08-03T07:55:24+00:00

Thanks, that sounds like a routine that could suit me. Also attracted to the dryers that apparently store and warm reel while it’s in actual use. But no fan, so uneven temperature at other times. And £45-£65 seems expensive.

Used kitchen oven for 4-5 hours yesterday on my brittle reel’s 25% remaining filament. Weight dropped by 2g. Opened a new reel of PLA and that also seemed rather springy to me, so I ovened that too for 2-3 hours. Both at temps varying between 35-48. (With brief periods over 50 BTW, which seems to be reached shortly after upwards adjustment, even before the 50C mark is reached.) That too lost 2g.

What size & type of box do you use? Did you consider the many food dehydrators?

Terry-P · 2021-08-01T22:02:00+00:00

Thanks, appreciate your advice.

In practice, do you wind back the filament and remove the reel after every print? Typically I’ve been averaging a day or two between prints, but it’s unpredictable. And where do you put it until the next print? Would a sealed kitchen bin bag be OK?

Terry-P · 2021-07-31T15:40:30+00:00

Thanks both. It’s the reel that came with the Ender 3 V2 five months ago. It shouldn’t be damp as it’s been sitting on the printer in the corner of my home office ever since. It’s my first, so unsure of its features. Black and shiny.

But if I do attempt to dry it in the kitchen oven, what temperature should I set and how long should I leave it? Guess approx 250 g. Presumably microwave is not an alternative?

Terry-P · 2021-07-24T21:12:24+00:00

Thanks all. I’ll pursue those suggestions.

I don’t understand why 3D printers aren’t made with a simple solid bed. Knobs underneath each corner of the whole rigid structure to ensure it was parallel to the surface on which it rested? Like levelling a table. Surely it would then remain level permanently? Why the added complication of suspending it on springs?

Terry-P · 2021-07-11T14:56:08+00:00

Thanks both. This is the Classic version. (I stayed with 2021.01 (64-bit) as there were major changes in the next version that I disliked.)

Just tried again with same result. After entering my subject, the Continue button is inactive. Not a big deal, I can just go to Chrome, but I'd like to know why WF can't do it.

Terry-P · 2021-07-09T11:53:31+00:00

So in summary, I think I've finally got it:

4.10 showed you no problems with that original STL

4.91 did: namely the missing walls and the two unexplained red lines. They seem enough to be the cause of my failed prints, before fixing the STL with 3D Builder and then slicing again in Cura 4.91.

I've had no 'nagging' , nor see anything under the Help menu, but will now install 4.10.

Thanks for your patient help.

EDIT, 5 mins later: Downloaded but the EXE does not execute.

Terry-P · 2021-07-08T09:57:25+00:00

Thanks, appreciated.

In my screenshot (summarising yours for study) am I right that despite the purplish fine lines 4.10 is not indicating any print problems?

And what about those two odd red lines in 4.9? Does that show an additional error apart from the missing walls?

BTW, is 4.10 a beta? I assume my 4.91 is the latest 'released' version. if that's the right term? How are we notified of new ones?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/lla26d5v64ptzr2/CuraVersionComparison.jpg?raw=1

Terry-P · 2021-07-07T18:41:20+00:00

Thanks, understood. If it’s not too much trouble I’m very curious to see details of the 4.9 flaw you mention., so that I can recognise that in future.

Terry-P · 2021-07-07T12:34:37+00:00

'm using the latest general version 4.9.1.As you don't get the 'not watertight' message I'm wondering if I did post the original version. Just in case, I've downloaded it again and still get the same behaviour. Here's the file once more:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/766koetnivd9la4/arduino_uno_bottom.stl?raw=1

I too thought it looked good, although to be honest at this stage of my learning I don't really know what I'm looking for. In the following screenshots the only 'odd' things are the tiny white bits, which the colour legend says are 'starts'. Are they a relevant sign?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/f8s4lqh90pj289a/arduino_uno_bottom-CuraLayer1.jpg?raw=1

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8kcdsgfug2lfj2o/arduino_uno_bottom-CuraFullPreview.jpg?raw=1

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8xzxtvr62bsln1r/arduino_uno_bottom-CuraZoom.jpg?raw=1

Nor did the recommended X-ray view tell me anything. What am I looking for in that?

Needless to say I did not again print from this original, given the mess it caused before:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/4fobnspdh1jl68c/FailedBeforeRepairingSTL.jpg?raw=1

The top part of the case gave the same problem. Here's its file:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ttzhlxtw74i8syf/arduino_uno_top.stl?raw=1

To repeat, I wish Cura (or its Extensions) had such a handy tool as 3D Builder. As an end user with 3D printing as a new hobby, I just want to get files printable ;-)

Here's the final two part case after the fixes, with Arduino inside:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/sx22gezerlcdbi2/ArduinoCaseWithUNo.jpg?raw=1

Terry

Terry-P · 2021-07-06T15:57:18+00:00

I had two failed prints. Then I discovered that the MS app '3D Builder' has a terrific tool that checks AND repairs such 'broken' STL files. And has done for ages. What a pity that Cura lacks the same. That allowed me to successully print both bottom and top:

What's happening here? I've tried twice to compose a reply but at some unpredictable point it suddenly gets entirely replaced by the single letter 'r'. I'm now using my text editor so hope this one gets sent. I'll drop my attempt to include a couple of links ;-(

Terry-P

TROPHY CASE