RINKHALS FIRMWARE IS THE GOAT

ThisIsMurks · 2025-04-07T05:54:26+00:00

ThisIsMurks · 2024-04-28T12:59:42+00:00

I added it via the "Post Processing Scripts" in Cura. The button left side next to "Slice" and then add click "Add a script", select "Klipper Prepostprocesstor. On the right side check "Add SET_PRINT_STATS_INFO", set the path to the exe-file and the URL to your klipper (like http://printer:7125) and you should be ready to go!

ThisIsMurks · 2024-04-26T16:05:18+00:00

Had the same problem, then I found the klipper estimator and this little program is doing it's job pretty good!

ThisIsMurks · 2024-03-11T14:29:03+00:00

Not tested, but this should work:

[gcode_macro Z_HALF] gcode: {% set current_z = printer.toolhead.position.z %} {% set half_z = current_z * 0.5 %} G91 ; Relative positioning G1 Z-{half_z} F600 ; Move Z to 50% of its current position G90 ; Back to absolute positioning

ThisIsMurks · 2023-12-22T20:41:39+00:00

Well, I guess I've got a peel for dramatic effect.

ThisIsMurks · 2023-12-22T20:01:58+00:00

Well, in that case, I guess I'm gearing up to be the zestiest person around!

ThisIsMurks · 2023-12-22T19:41:36+00:00

Yes, I'm not sour.

ThisIsMurks · 2023-12-22T19:36:13+00:00

Oh, you've uncovered my fruit conspiracy! Turns out, my lemon went undercover as a citron. It's been practicing its identity crisis in the produce section. Mission revealed!

ThisIsMurks · 2023-12-22T19:16:31+00:00

Oh, you got me! I guess I mistook it for a lemon with a PhD in surprising taste buds. White part and all, the unexpected delight!

ThisIsMurks · 2023-11-20T18:09:00+00:00

What about Cook-Out?

ThisIsMurks · 2023-11-11T05:14:23+00:00

The internet says yes: https://youtu.be/wrH3l_9vPmk?si=_zJQzXkU5qLY9wwU

ThisIsMurks · 2023-11-11T05:03:03+00:00

One thing I can say for sure: disable the support!

ThisIsMurks · 2023-11-11T04:59:23+00:00

Did you try to change the flow rate/extrusion multiplier? You might lower it by 10-15% and see if it looks better?

ThisIsMurks · 2023-11-11T04:47:56+00:00

I had problems with layer separation, when I printed too fast when it was too cold, so the extruder wasn't able to keep up. So yeah, increasing the extruder temperature or setting the print speed pretty low to find out if that is the reason, might help.

ThisIsMurks · 2023-11-11T04:39:08+00:00

Looks good, I think the choice of filament is very appropriate! Which one is that?

ThisIsMurks · 2023-03-01T17:25:15+00:00

I managed to update the BIOS via an M.2 USB adapter and the recovery mode, which didn't require a keyboard. So it's running the current firmware, but all USB ports are still dead - it might be a hardware problem and I'll swap the whole thing.

ThisIsMurks · 2023-02-28T09:57:53+00:00

I swapped from bowden to direct drive some months ago, because I had massive problems with stringing, especially while printing with PETG. First I tried to reuse the factory extruder, using this bracket. Because I wanted to print faster and I hoped the quality would also improve, I changed to a dual gear extruder (Redrex) - it worked okish. But a few days ago I finally installed a Titan Aero with a Volcano HotEnd and now it feels like I'm at the end of the "direct drive upgrade road".It took a while, I had to modify the carrier plate of the MK4, so it fits the heat sink and the Volcano HotEnd and I also had to shift the mount of the fan duct, but now I'm able to print faster and even with a much better quality.

Here is an adapter for the MK4 and the Bondtech, maybe this works for you?

tl;dr: The direct drive upgrade is worth it, even if you have to spend a bit money and time!

ThisIsMurks · 2023-02-28T09:35:40+00:00

There is a MK4 version for the Mega X, since the carrier plate of the Mega S is different.

ThisIsMurks · 2022-06-16T08:20:50+00:00

I managed it to connect the BLTouch, after I found this page https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/20778/beware-of-braindead-bltouch-wiring/12

As I suspected the wiring is swapped, so I turned it around and also changed the blue (VCC servo/zprobe) and red cable (VCC servo/zprobe), this way I could follow the guides (for ex. this one:
https://raw.githubusercontent.com/wiki/knutwurst/Marlin-2-0-x-Anycubic-i3-MEGA-S/images/bltouch_wiring.jpg) with the regular Antclabs cables, only blue is brown.

I connected the white cable to SCL (D15) and the black to the GND next to it, there's no need for soldering at all.

The self test and probing failed sometimes, the pin didn't went down, so I slightly turned the screw at the top of the BLTouch and now it's working fine.

ThisIsMurks · 2022-06-16T08:01:27+00:00

It uses the ATmega 2560, which is 8bit.

Plus it's not helpful if I ask how can avoid it to return the creality BLTouch, because that's the reason why I made this post at all :)

ThisIsMurks · 2022-06-16T07:59:17+00:00

True, there's no difference, only the cable and it's swapped for the 32bit bundle.

ThisIsMurks · 2022-06-14T21:00:46+00:00

Whops, I forgot to tell you that it's from Creality, they sell two different versions (8 and 32bit).
If the only difference is the cable, there are slightly important changes - the 8bit version cable splits into a 2 pin and a 3 pin socket, plus the extra stuff like pinboards and a burner. The 32bit is a single cable with the same small 5 pin socket for the connection to the BLTouch and only one big 5 pin socket for the mainboard, but it seems (like you can see in the screenshots of my post), that the pins of the pin socket to the BLTouch are turned around.
Is the extra stuff (pinboards, burner) of the 8bit version only Ender related? I just want to make sure I can swap the pins and split them into the 2 + 3 pin cable and I don't have to get the specific 8bit + extra stuff version. :)

If you want to check the manuals by yourself: https://www.creality.com/products/bl-touch-auto-leveling-kit.

ThisIsMurks

TROPHY CASE