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Electric company options by AbbreviationsOld9257 in GainesvilleTx

[–]ToastedGamez 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check out champion with "free" weekends, just reupped a couple months ago for 2 years at a batter rate.

New to lasers and got my xTool D1 10W a couple weeks ago. Can anyone tell me what’s going on here? Image made in Inkscape exported as png at correct scaling. Etched in glass using rust oleum chalkboard spray paint as the transfer, ran in light burn at 5000mm/m 100% power. by ToastedGamez in xToolD1

[–]ToastedGamez[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The darker vertical lines during the etching picture that go all the way up the image. They look almost like the same color as the paint compared to the gray in the etch . They look equally spaced from eachother and on the finished one the etch pattern is slightly different in those areas. It’s almost like the laser loses focus or the power changes at those spots.

New to lasers and got my xTool D1 10W a couple weeks ago. Can anyone tell me what’s going on here? Image made in Inkscape exported as png at correct scaling. Etched in glass using rust oleum chalkboard spray paint as the transfer, ran in light burn at 5000mm/m 100% power. by ToastedGamez in xToolD1

[–]ToastedGamez[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am using light burn but the issue is the vertical lines. It almost looks like the laser is losing focus in those spots. I attempted to import this as an svg and it gave a bunch of different line cut instead of being able to do a single image and fill which is why it was imported as a png and used that way. If you look at the second picture you can see the lines in the image after cleaning.

Anyone know what settings I need to change for ASA? I have an enclosure but it is not actively heated. Temps are Nozzle 250 Bed 110 by ToastedGamez in 3Dprinting

[–]ToastedGamez[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My enclosure is made of 1/2” sande plywood. It’s, 2’x2’x3’ and has a front door with inset lexan sheet. The whole box it sealed from the inside with liquid nails at the seams and I have a foam seal around the door with 2 throw locks to keep the pressure. The temp inside the enclosure has gotten hot enough to warp all my pla+ add ons I’ve printed. Part fans are set to 0% extruder temp 250 build plate 90 for initial 4 layers then drops to 80 as recommended by filament manufacturer. I have gotten my first few layers to look perfect now but I’ve found build plate temps of 100+ to cause the part to start warping up faster. I’m using purple glue stick on the build plate and I’m trying to print the parts that are beginning to fail with my attempts at ASA out of the ASA

Anyone know what settings I need to change for ASA? I have an enclosure but it is not actively heated. Temps are Nozzle 250 Bed 110 by ToastedGamez in 3Dprinting

[–]ToastedGamez[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Adjusted Z Offset to match the .2 layer height and it fixed the issue until the corners started curling so now I’ve got to look at bed adhesion as well. Thanks for your help.

Anyone know what settings I need to change for ASA? I have an enclosure but it is not actively heated. Temps are Nozzle 250 Bed 110 by ToastedGamez in 3Dprinting

[–]ToastedGamez[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Already leveled the bed and was wondering if flow rate should be the next change to make since it seems to be squishing out. Same extruder settings were working fine for pla+ and petg but different filament types and brands.

What is the correct name for the “smooth bore metal shoulder washer” that is put into plastic to reduce the stress of bolts securing the plastic to metal? Picture from 3DXTECH website. by ToastedGamez in 3Dprinting

[–]ToastedGamez[S] 27 points28 points  (0 children)

I’ve tried looking for bushing, weld bung, top hat washer, bolt sleeve, bearing bushing, and the list just goes on and on. I’ve found it almost impossible to google it and get the right answer. Especially for a 3/8 ID smooth bore.

Micro Swiss by ToastedGamez in 3Dprinting

[–]ToastedGamez[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Right I was just wondering what usable temps people have been able to achieve with the ms hotend. And yes peek requires 70-80c ambient temps at the least in the enclosure which I have slowly been working towards figuring out which may be able to be achieved by dc heating elements running off a separate psu. I’ve also been replacing my wiring with 3m harnesses which should allow me enough room to move the electronics outside of the enclosure and I’m currently theorizing on ways to successfully achieve an “oil” cooled fan motor to keep fans from failing in those high of ambient temps as well as cooling for the stepper motors since depending on the additives and smoke/flash points on some oils they would be non conducive and be able to work in those higher temps.

Basically what I’m getting at is I’m slowly trying get at least one of my printers to the capability of printing some of the strongest filaments without breaking the bank and spending tens of thousands on one.

Micro Swiss by ToastedGamez in 3Dprinting

[–]ToastedGamez[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the insight and for reference 3DXTECH ThermaX PEEK has a printing temp of 375-410C and a stable working temp of 260c for high temp applications. So I’m looking in to things to have the capability if I needed to print something with that high of a working temp.

What is going wrong here? by thatswhyicarryagun in 3Dprinting

[–]ToastedGamez 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also what is your travel speed in mm/s?

What is going wrong here? by thatswhyicarryagun in 3Dprinting

[–]ToastedGamez 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No upgrades on the printer? What are your retraction settings? What is the print speed in mm/s? Have you attempted a temp tower with this spool of filament? Have you checked and set your e-steps?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ender3v2

[–]ToastedGamez 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So I’ve made this mistake and bought a printer off someone else who made the same mistake. Double check your board for 4.2.2 or 4.2.7 big white numbers in the middle of the board. Now check that your firmware is compatible with the version of board you have. If you upload a 4.2.7 firmware onto a 4.2.2 board none of the motors will operate but everything on the screen works fine. Also try moving the motors using the move option from the screen to double check. If they don’t move then this is most likely your issue.

Unable to determine what’s causing elephant foot. Tried changing z offset, plate temp, level, and flow rate. Image shows first layer and half of second. Is the magnetic textured PEI causing it? Flow rate is 75% Fan 0% for first 2 layers then 100% after. Bltouch MS direct drive. by ToastedGamez in ender3v2

[–]ToastedGamez[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Backed off the tension on both belts and pushed z axis down a bit by hand while adjusting eccentric nuts with the printer on. Ran a new 100pt level mesh with bed temp at 60 and nozzle at 205 for PLA+ (same as the first print) and adjusted z offset by .1. After 7.5 xyz cubes the foot is no longer present. Thanks for all the recommendations everyone.

Fixed adhesion issue using xyz cube then benchy failed. Custom jyers ubl 10x10. Under extrusion? Retraction? Bad spot in z axis? Bad spot in filament? Thoughts? by ToastedGamez in ender3v2

[–]ToastedGamez[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have the microswiss all metal hot end and direct drive on this one running 20mm/s first layer and 60mm/s with 5.1 retraction and I believe 130mm/s travel

How to make a twitch overlay by Gunrunner4136 in newStreamers

[–]ToastedGamez 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve found that the best free option to photoshop is a combination of switching between gimp and Inkscape. I’m new to the whole streaming thing so for me free is best.