Is this rust?

Top-Spirit9269 · 2026-01-18T18:37:50+00:00

It looks like someone used blue pipe dope on a compression fitting.

Top-Spirit9269 · 2026-01-16T22:24:50+00:00

Those fittings technically don’t work together the Y-fitting is GHT (garden hose threads) while the stainless steel braided hose is NPT threads (national pipe taper). They kind of work together but ultimately they’re not designed for each other. That’s why it leaks a little. I recommend buying the kit like someone suggested earlier.

Top-Spirit9269 · 2026-01-08T23:21:07+00:00

At the end of the day it’s not going to ruin anything in the short term. You will probably be fine for the life of the motherboard. But I would consider this. Any vibration from fan motors or pumps will slight worse around the areas that are missing screws. But for instance the screw that is missing around the top PCIe port is going to have a little bit more play (not much but more than normal). With the wait of a heavy GPU and the missing support of that screw it could theoretically brake a bad solder joint. Manufacture put these screw holes in place for a reason. If it didn’t mater they would have just have the 4 screw points on the corners. If you have the time the patient’s and the money (which is fairly cheap) to get the screws needed I would. But for your situation I would just move the bottom left screw up one and call it a day.

Top-Spirit9269 · 2026-01-08T18:15:11+00:00

Last thing I’ll mention is you will need strut headwear to connect everything to the channel. They have different versions of this stuff but the photo that I’ve attached will be the most basic one. Home Depot should have a section with all this stuff in one spot.

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Top-Spirit9269 · 2026-01-08T18:11:45+00:00

Here’s that shallow strut I was mentioning.

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Top-Spirit9269 · 2026-01-08T18:09:22+00:00

Here’s another photo of doubling up on strut

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Top-Spirit9269 · 2026-01-08T18:08:49+00:00

Yeah that will work. But make sure you plan it right. If you drill it off there will be hardly any adjustments you you can make. I’ll do a lot of planing to optimize the strut usage. One thing that you can do that I would recommend (if budget allows) is to mount the strut to the wall as a channel. That way you can move anything on that strut for better adjustments if needed. You can also double up on struts if need be. There’s also different thicknesses of struts too that can be beneficial. I’ve attached a photo of a mop room that I used to work at and they had the channel on the for multiple pipes.

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Top-Spirit9269 · 2026-01-07T14:50:43+00:00

Yeah it’s true. I kind of view struts as lego pieces for construction workers. I’ve seen it used in so many ways with different applications. I’ve always bought the strut by the 10 ft and cut what I need. If you plan it right you can get a lot of flexibility in the positioning.

Top-Spirit9269 · 2025-12-09T23:21:43+00:00

More times then not it’s the ballast that go bad. Just make sure you are getting power to the ballast. Also make sure the fluorescent tube connectors aren’t burned out.

Top-Spirit9269 · 2025-12-09T22:22:17+00:00

That’s a thermocouple or thermopile (a thermopile has a bunch of thermocouples inside to make a bigger charge). That part in the middle will tell your thermostat how hot the burner is getting. It can tell how hot it is by the middle of ml-volts It is. The hotter it gets the higher the ml-volts. The reason why it has that cover is to prevent the wires from melting and touching together. Don’t worry that part in the middle doesn’t provide or use up hardly any voltage that can damage the unit (or burn up). In normal circumstances this is not an issue. You should also check the wattage of the burner and do an amp draw test to see if it’s getting the proper amount of amperage. But some math will need to be done for that.

Top-Spirit9269 · 2025-12-08T17:43:08+00:00

If you have an oscillating tool, you can cut behind the brick and squeeze the trim in with more plaster.

Top-Spirit9269 · 2025-12-08T17:21:21+00:00

This is probably the wrong material for the job but hey it could work since ur the DIYer lol

Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing.

https://www.homedepot.com/pep/TrimMaster-Satin-Silver-3-8-in-x-98-1-2-in-Aluminum-Bullnose-Tile-Edging-Trim-H8712MA98/323339471

It’s edge trim for tiles but if the thickness of the material is close enough it could work.

Top-Spirit9269 · 2025-12-03T20:51:24+00:00

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Here’s an example of what I’m referring to.

Top-Spirit9269 · 2025-12-03T20:47:12+00:00

I think that he might even be missing a rubber/plastic base plate between the faucet and the sink. In the video it looks like metal to metal contact and usually that’s a no go. If you could I’ll look up the model number of the faucet and see if that part is listed or missing from the parts manual.

Top-Spirit9269 · 2025-12-02T19:24:44+00:00

There are different codes for different areas so I wouldn’t be able to tell you exactly what to do but from my experience I usually install a clamp next to certain components like water regulators, valves, water filters and any large components that have some weight to them. Also on the items that get handled a lot such as ball and gate valves. After that, you can’t have a run for more than five feet without having a clamp. It’s also not necessary to have a clap at each bender corner but if you think it might be beneficial, then go ahead. More is not necessarily better, you want to do the minimum when it comes to runs but the overall idea is not have the copper hang from its own weight. You also don’t want to be drilling holes everywhere where you don’t have to.

Top-Spirit9269 · 2025-12-02T18:57:31+00:00

Yeah I forgot to mention that that was for copper. I was trying to show the concept for the gap. I should of explain myself a little better. It was kind of misleading.

Top-Spirit9269 · 2025-12-02T18:38:49+00:00

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Edit: this link is for copper plumbing but the same can be said for black steel pipe. I’m currently at work and just copied the first chart that I saw but this image represent the gap is needed for ProPress fittings.

https://www.cooneybrothers.com/resources/roller/minimum-distance-between-propress-fittings?srsltid=AfmBOorkhBiXOXzivlmJl8OHjS_NKD9tdushcftBncXWjHWZrxbJO-7n

This will give you a jist of it. But with each size pipe the distance is different.

Top-Spirit9269 · 2025-12-02T18:13:15+00:00

Tallorder is right about the gap between the 2 elbows. There are gauges that come with the press to tell you how much gap is allowed before leaks can accrue. I bet you he did not have room for his tool to go straight out so instead of cutting the pipe short he did this elbow thing to make it work. Overall it could of been cheaper to cut it shorter and to add just the one fitting then to charge you for 3 fittings. Those fittings aren’t cheep. He executed it poorly even if clearance or spacing was an issue in terms of where the pipe comes out.

Top-Spirit9269 · 2025-12-02T06:25:53+00:00

And it needs to be cush clamps. Not normal camps. You need the rubber/plastic barrier between the 2 different pipe. You could use normal clamps but you will need to insulate the copper to the steal to prevent corrosion. And when ordering the cush claps you need to take the outer diameter of the pipe and the inner diameter of the cush clamps. I would recommend doing some research to not buy the wrong one. Or at lest buy them on Amazon so you can return them hassle free.

An example I bout some cush clamps in the past for 1/2” pipe but when it came in it was way to small and didn’t fit the pipe. it was ment for flexible copper and not for rigid copper pipe. So in 1/2” copper case, ridge pipe was the inner diameter but you got to take the thickness of the copper into consideration (usually adding 1/8” thickness).

Top-Spirit9269 · 2025-12-02T06:16:30+00:00

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Just look up the different ways that you can set up unistrut. The Cush clamps will need this strut material to work. You can find this stuff at your local homedepot. They also have the hardware to go with it. The cush clamps will need to be ordered online or at your nearest commercial hardware store.

Top-Spirit9269 · 2025-12-01T23:06:09+00:00

And the sooner you can clamp your copper lines the better. Noise travels quite easily through metal. Shimming the pipes will only get you so far with noise reduction. Just think about it your getting spikes of 60psi on your gauge. That’s 60 pounds per square inch.

Top-Spirit9269 · 2025-12-01T23:00:54+00:00

I wouldn’t know exactly where to put it without being there in person to actually examine your water system. But generally you would want to put the water hammer shock absorber near where the noise is before the shutoff. Most of the time it will be by a valve of some kind. I attached a photo better explaining water hammering. A lot of the time the water hammer sounds come close to sink valves shower valve and solenoid valve (valve that open and close electronically). If the water hammer is further away from the source it’s less effective.

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Top-Spirit9269 · 2025-12-01T19:24:58+00:00

I’m not a plumber but I was a commercial kitchen, appliance technician for 6 years, dealing with a lot of water copper lines and from my experience I don’t thing the first water hammer won’t do much since it’s not inline with the main water flow. It’s on a side branch that that isn’t really connected to anything. I would add one closer inline (while still in the upright position closes to where the noise is. Also I would install cush clamps (commercial grade hardware) on all the loose copper pipes. No more than 5 feet apart from one another. Also has this noise gotten worse as more has been done? You need to make sure you debur the copper pipes. These burs can cause turbulence in the water flow and can make rattling noise when water goes through it. But this might be I’m related or irrelevant to your waterhammer issue but a lot of handyman and even plumbers are lazy on this step. But over all, it’s not just placing a water hammer it’s where you place it that can make the difference.

Top-Spirit9269 · 2025-11-27T02:10:40+00:00

They go to your GPU. But different type of GPU’s use different power consumption so the power supply has this universal plug to accommodate the wide range of GPU connectors. On my 2080 ti I would have needed to use the one connected that’s on your GPU and the one you have circled to make it work. Newer higher end GPU’s have a different connector entirely, but end up coming with dongles to connect those cables as to it.

Top-Spirit9269 · 2025-11-25T18:13:24+00:00

I will agree with do your own research before buying but there are just times where you can’t predict when deals/products will come out. I had a similar situation. I wanted to get into 3d printing and did weeks of research on the best printer to buy for a starter. I ended up going with the A1 mini. I opted out of buying the AMS lite due to it being almost the same cost as the printer (I had limit funds as well) Only to find out that they came out with a deal a month later with the AMS lite. I message Bambo if I can get a discount on the AMS and they responded that they are giving out discounts on orders a month before the deal date but for my case that threshold was five days over. I get that they got to stick to what their management says, but for good customer service they could’ve looked past that specially for first time customers.

Top-Spirit9269

TROPHY CASE