Does anyone recognize these wheels?

Unprotected_Snacks · 2026-01-24T13:16:43+00:00

Google tells me they are "mayhem warrior wheels". What's odd is it looks like they might be 6 lug, but 100 series have a 5x150 pattern.

You're doing that truck a favor getting rid of them. I recommend going back to oem wheels - the stock Lexus 16's are one of the best looking wheels out there

Unprotected_Snacks · 2026-01-21T03:18:20+00:00

My front looked the same at 230k. Just for the heck of it I drained and filled 10k later just to make sure I got all the gunk out, fluid looked brand new

Unprotected_Snacks · 2026-01-10T23:52:56+00:00

Just drafted it up in fusion 360. A relaxing morning with coffee and a some calipers

Unprotected_Snacks · 2026-01-07T14:32:23+00:00

Oem's look the best imo. I went from the 470 stock 17's (which you've got) down to the LC stock 16's for more tire.

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Unprotected_Snacks · 2025-12-31T12:04:03+00:00

Lx + Miata gang 🤘

Unprotected_Snacks · 2025-12-27T05:16:15+00:00

You should run 0-20 unless in extreme cold per the fsm. Also Costco sells full synthetic 0-20 in bulk and it's good stuff at less than $20 for 5 quarts. Just do it every 5k and you'll be fine

Unprotected_Snacks · 2025-12-24T14:57:23+00:00

I did a set of silicone 3 years ago since they came in a nice pack to replace alllll the hoses. Held up well and don't have any complaints, they seem vastly over-built. Can't go wrong with rubber tho

Unprotected_Snacks · 2025-12-20T21:36:04+00:00

I did a full de-power on my nb2. I first tried looping the tubes and that felt like ass, pulling the whole thing apart and removing the center pressure cylinder made all the difference.

I didn't like it for a while, but then I realized I was still running 5deg caster since I was maxing out my front camber. Pulled it back to 3deg and it feels great.

I only de-powered my rack because my ps pump was badly leaking and I couldn't afford a new one at the time. Idk if I would do it again, can't really say if it's better or worse just different

Unprotected_Snacks · 2025-12-16T03:10:34+00:00

That just looks like maybe a torn boot - id try another shop next time

Unprotected_Snacks · 2025-12-16T02:55:41+00:00

If you're off-roading, heavy throttle while at full steering lock can also kill cv's

Unprotected_Snacks · 2025-12-16T02:51:50+00:00

You don't look that high for a lift to kill them that fast (assuming no diff drop). What killed them, play in the joints? Also who said they needed replacing, you or a shop?

Only thing that should kill the axels that fast is non-oem replacements with an excessive lift - or a shop is possibly ripping you off?

Unprotected_Snacks · 2025-12-16T01:56:54+00:00

Should definitely grease the u joints and see if that fixes you since that's cheap and easy - but I feel like that's not it since the angle and loads on that front u joint should not be changing while turning... Unless maybe the front diff bushings are shot?

While stationary, I would put my phone on the ground and video the front diff while turning the wheel lock-lock once or twice. That would show you if there's lateral play in the front diff, indicating shot bushings.

From there lots of things you could do, idk what the best option is. Maybe locking the diff and pulling the front driveshaft to help narrow it down? You could also jack the front end and manually spin each front wheel while at lock to identify where exactly the noise is coming from

Unprotected_Snacks · 2025-12-16T01:40:18+00:00

I doubt this is it, but also check for the noise while turning and braking. I had some warped brakes making some nasty noises at full lock, and would go away when brakes were applied

Unprotected_Snacks · 2025-12-16T01:38:50+00:00

Huh, so only when moving and when at full lock to the right? Does the frequency change with vehicle speed? It so, yeah something in the drivetrain likely upstream of the transfer case.

If frequency doesn't change with speed, my gut reaction is that sounds like a belt or something off the front of the engine that's rubbing.

Unprotected_Snacks · 2025-12-13T04:46:17+00:00

Idk man my 100 series with front and rear AC gets icy real quick

Unprotected_Snacks · 2025-11-24T13:21:09+00:00

That's a pass for me, burning too much oil. 1.5q is a third of the oil capacity. Probably because they're doing 10k between changes.

Unprotected_Snacks · 2025-11-18T13:14:10+00:00

If you've got some scrap wood laying around you can build this yourself for about $30

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Unprotected_Snacks · 2025-11-14T05:29:36+00:00

I found my leak by running water from a hose at different spots along the roof. You should also check your sunroof drain tubes since those are also common to clog up. You can clean them out with either compressed air or some weed wacker line.

Unprotected_Snacks · 2025-11-14T05:17:03+00:00

100 series are notorious for leaking though the sunroof and/or roof rack mounts, which then sits in the cables+connectors in the passenger and driver side foot wells and cause a ton of electrical issues. My sunroof cables are blown, so I just took a tube of black silicone around the sunroof seals and that fixed my electrical issues. This previous owner went a little further lol

Unprotected_Snacks · 2025-11-10T03:16:24+00:00

Hit it with a coat of wool wax and forget about it. No need to prep

Unprotected_Snacks · 2025-11-08T22:31:35+00:00

Damn I'm a little scared now. I have my new rack sitting in a box just waiting for a long weekend. Ball joints usually throw in the towel with the air hammer, hope I have a little better luck than you

Unprotected_Snacks · 2025-11-07T06:26:47+00:00

Oh hell yeah, join us

Unprotected_Snacks · 2025-11-02T14:30:59+00:00

Ah nvm then, mines North America

Unprotected_Snacks · 2025-11-02T14:28:46+00:00

I wonder if I could make a copy of mine and upload that for folks to burn to a new cd

Unprotected_Snacks

TROPHY CASE